Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Way to ensure rump is tender is to cook it well (duh) and then be sure to slice it AGAINST the grain. With most other cuts you can get away with it, but rump & oyster blade/skirt/hanger/flank you really can't

I found rump works best for tender medium almost medium well, but that all depends on fat streaks too

Don't know how to cut against grain, I remember you showing me in an isolated snow chalet but it was wasted on me

Can't sleep, Greg's cursed car will eat me.

Maybe you have a similar number of issues as anyone with a 400kw <8 cylinder car (post new engine) except:

1) they keep it on the down low

2) not daily driven

I found rump works best for tender medium almost medium well, but that all depends on fat streaks too

Don't know how to cut against grain, I remember you showing me in an isolated snow chalet but it was wasted on me

I'll show you, even a vegetarian knows how to cut against the grain.

Can't sleep, Greg's cursed car will eat me.

Maybe you have a similar number of issues as anyone with a 400kw <8 cylinder car (post new engine) except:

1) they keep it on the down low

2) not daily driven

Lol no...

I'll show you, even a vegetarian knows how to cut against the grain.

You couldn't cut against the grain on the grainiest day of your life if you had an electrified grain cutting machine

Leeroy iracing half price renewal for 1 year 49.95 till end of June.. tempting but i'm not getting on there much these days

My brothers 33 gtst is STILL in some shop, been there for months and apparently all they've done is polish the plenum LOL

Apparently they need him to get a friend to bring their r33 in so they can compare whats in the engine bay or whats missing? wtf?

I keep telling him to sell the thing, problem after problem as it's been modded and screwed around with far too much now, he should of kept it at the reliable/responsive 250rwkw he had it at..

he's 28 on good money and been 'borrowing' mums car dafaqq

Edited by UNR33L

Lol no...

Can't sleep, Greg's cursed car will eat me.

Maybe you have a similar number of issues as anyone with a 400kw <8 cylinder car (post new engine) except:

1) they keep it on the down low

2) not daily driven

Well lets go over a few points here

1) I keep additional breakages on the down low

2) it's not daily driven, mainly due to fear.. and the fact I work 6 minutes from where I live, so it isn't even up to temp when getting here, and also fear

..it broke down about 1km from my house btw.. after doing 300+kms on the weekend..

Also the issue itself deserves mentioning...

How does one relay work but every other relay not work, when they share the exact same pins?

Car primes

crank car, got fuel pressure

start car, no fuel... until it runs for ~10 seconds then its fine

sure ok

Wire up a button to force the pump to pump, in the idea of holding it down until the car stops being retartded

this works, cool, but we're using a 30A supercheap relay

Put 70 back in. Same pins.

Problem different. Car won't run unless button is held in.

f**k it, whatever, use the normally closed option on the 70 relay to make the pump actually f**king pump all of the time even if the car is off, plug it in in the boot to go for a drive. Cool.

Until of course, that doesn't work anymore either

Car turns over

Fuel pump primes and is pumping, just stalled and refuses to start

No fuses blown

best idea so far is I've somehow blown a fuel line inside the fuel tank

Side note: I didn't need your tank Simon as, well, the issue was with the tank lid itself.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
    • Legend. I ended up finding the facebook account of the owner of the first car i sent but sadly he deactivated the account. I think you’re right in saying it’s some sort of well done custom job. Really appreciate your help anyways.
    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
    • I do have loctite 243 and 246 and a few more models. I could drill it now in place and make new threads for m12 and order an4 - m12 coupling and fit that to the turbo. Run a braided hose to the EBC which I could get a an4 to 1/8npt 
×
×
  • Create New...