Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As above...unless you're having troubles, go as low heat range as possible...6 is good for that power.

im running bcpr6es-11's at the moment but trying to suss out if its still correct for the increase in power and boost.

Getting a bit of misfire after some spirited driving and seeing if i can fix it up with some colder sparkplugs...

NGK site says:

Ignition Timing

  • Advancing ignition timing by 10° will cause the spark plug tip temperature to increase by approximately 70° to 100°C.
  • A colder heat range spark plug may be necessary if the ignition timing has been advanced to near the knock level. Higher cylinder temperatures near the knock level will bring the spark plug firing end temperature closer to the pre-ignition range.

Forced Induction (Turbocharging, Supercharging)

  • A colder heat range spark plug may be necessary due to the increased cylinder temperature as boost pressure (manifold pressure) and subsequent cylinder pressure and temperature increase.
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • We have a huge update coming in the next few months, version 5 of Invision will be released. I'm holding off any changes until after this change as I'm not sure what features will be removed or introduced.
    • Yeah, plenty of air flow, there is a dedicated path that feeds the air in to the OEM intake tube behind the bumper As for a "tangible effect", maybe, but getting the pod/intake air out of the hot engine bay is worth it psychologically to me, even if it gives no performance difference, so the tangible effect in my Lizard brain saysss yessss  In the end, to me a tangible effect isn't always about performance, sometimes it a sound or a look, or even a...... feeling  Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga
    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...