Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 81
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I was strongly advised by a very reputable rb builder to not relocate filter, sure cooler, but dont touch relocation kits. More shit to go wrong, more leaks to have, and the factory position is fine anyway, use cardboard so you dont make a mess. problem solved. Each to their own but teehee.gif

have you tried changing the filter in a gtr? a 25 is a piece of piss by comparison. relocator is a massive convenience in a gtr

Crawl under??? i always get my filter from the top? lol. I think he told me something about the drainback valve not working to flash when mounted vertical also.

Usually get it from underneath to try save on mess, I line the sub-frame rack etc with rags/towels to catch any oil, then wash it down after.

I've just bought a JJR Oil Cooler and Filter Relocation Kit because I'm planning to start tracking my 33 GTST this year.

It does not come with a thermostat but I saw a suggestion of making up a small cover which can clip to the cooler during the cooler months when you're not at the track or driving in 30+ degree days, if you're concerned about over cooling your oil. $10 in materials and you'll have a durable cover which will effectively stop the cooler from working when its not required.

Might be a better idea for you?

I was strongly advised by a very reputable rb builder to not relocate filter, sure cooler, but dont touch relocation kits. More shit to go wrong, more leaks to have,

Only crap kits leak. I spent $800 on an HKS cooler and relocation kit a couple of years ago and have had no issues.

OP, if you cant afford a high quality kit, do nothing and just watch the temperatures. Cheap kits are notorious for leaking, some even weeping through the hoses.

Of the four kits you showed, I'd go Risking :thumbsup:

I just looked at the hel kit with thermostatic sanga plate. buy from hel uk site 460 AUD including postage. whole kit for r33 gts/r.

I bought one, i currently have a chinese cooler that never let me down... but i want thermostat now because i scrapped the factory oil heater :thumbsup:

Note postage is 5 days tops... Hel australia want 700+++.........

Cant go wrong imho...

I've just bought a JJR Oil Cooler and Filter Relocation Kit because I'm planning to start tracking my 33 GTST this year.

It does not come with a thermostat but I saw a suggestion of making up a small cover which can clip to the cooler during the cooler months when you're not at the track or driving in 30+ degree days, if you're concerned about over cooling your oil. $10 in materials and you'll have a durable cover which will effectively stop the cooler from working when its not required.

Might be a better idea for you?

Looked at this option too, i'd much rather the thermostat though as it automatically controls the oil temp by keeping it at ~80-90 degrees, rather than just removing the cover when the weather's hot.

Over cooled oil will do as little as under cooled oil, thus everyone says/knows not to flog a cold car as there is pressure but low flow to the internals.....

Only crap kits leak. I spent $800 on an HKS cooler and relocation kit a couple of years ago and have had no issues.

OP, if you cant afford a high quality kit, do nothing and just watch the temperatures. Cheap kits are notorious for leaking, some even weeping through the hoses.

Of the four kits you showed, I'd go Risking :thumbsup:

I think is someones willing to provide a replacement warranty on an item and put their name to it then it can't be as bad as ebay etc?

Can someone recommend a good brand/quality oil cooler and adaptor plate? I'd be happy to spend a few extra dollars for good gear, then have the lines made up....

Edited by blk94r33

A lot of the cheaper kits do not come with a thermostat and people say just to add one on. Where abouts do you get these thermostats from and how do you add them into the cooler kit to be functional on the car.

http://www.derale.com/

http://shop.perma-cool.com/Transmission-Fluid-Engine-Oil-Thermostats_c10.htm

inline perma-cool $50 when i got mine,

i looked in Australia & most wanted $140 + postage.

i like builtin ones ,

just shop about as you will find a good deal.

Cheers Chuckie.

excellenmt thread......have just been looking into all of this myself

Cheers thumbsup.gif

A lot of the cheaper kits do not come with a thermostat and people say just to add one on. Where abouts do you get these thermostats from and how do you add them into the cooler kit to be functional on the car.

Same problem i'm having, the missing features are simply "add on", but it's not that simple.

This is the plate i'll most likely be using (part no. 12401114). It mounts say on the strut tower, and goes in between an adaptor plate from the engine and the oil cooler, flows oil through the filter when cold then filter and cooler when it gets to +80 degrees celcius.

http://greddy.net.au...&SubCategory=88

Other option is something like this:

http://www.motionaer...Thermostats.pdf

Same job, but would fit in the return line to the engine (effectively)

Hope that helps. smile.gif

Edited by blk94r33

Hi team. Few questions.

I have already a few parts from an old car.

http://www.frsport.com/Setrab-Oil-Cooler-50-625-7612--6-Series-25-Row-M22-Threaded-Ports_p_15182.html

http://www.frsport.com/Greddy-12401114-Remote-Oil-Filter-Relocation-with-Thermostat_p_12814.html

and some lines.

Now i have the R33.

What is the part that i need to go on the engine block where the filter would normally sit?

On the sr I had this:

http://www.frsport.com/Tomei-193068-N2-Super-Oil-Block-Adapter-for-Nissan-SR20DET-Motors_p_2572.html

but cant seem to find a similar item for the RB.

Is there a similar item or a screw on type i can use?

Earls do everything you require. If you want a quote to supply as broken down components let me know and I can work something out for you.

Only going to supply top shelf quality components though not cheap crap.

I think is someones willing to provide a replacement warranty on an item and put their name to it then it can't be as bad as ebay etc?

Can someone recommend a good brand/quality oil cooler and adaptor plate? I'd be happy to spend a few extra dollars for good gear, then have the lines made up....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The fab work can be as simple as a couple of silicon hoses and clamps to the factory piping. 
    • Just sounds like either way you need to do some fab work to get everything to fit, so why limit yourself at that point? If the GCG high flow option is zero effort in and out swap though I'd probably do that. It's almost certainly lowest risk, lowest cost, etc. The HKS GTIII-RS option that Kapr mentioned is laughably expensive for what it is, they charge the exact same for two turbos on the RB26 so their margins are off the charts on that thing.
    • Intake manifold is not a part of the issue. The turbo bolts to the exhaust manifold. That is easy. But close your eyes and picture the physical situation. That is a T3 flange on the manifold and a T3 flange on the turbo. As long as any new turbo has a T3 flange on the exhaust housing, that exhaust housing will bolt to the exhaust manifold. This places the exhaust housing in the same place as the stock one. But now move your mental attention a little further forward. The location of the compressor housing is set by the length of the turbo's core. The stock turbo had a long core. Let's say that it is..... 100mm long. So that would place the compressor housing 100mm forward of the exhaust housing. But a highflow, might well have a centre core that is shorter. Let's say that it is only 70mm long. Now the compressor housing will be 30mm further back in the engine bay than the stock one. This DOES move the turbo's compressor outlet backwards. It also moves the compressor's inlet backwards. You will very likely have to do some work to both the inlet and outlet piping to make everything connect again. I am not say this to make it out to be a bigger deal than it is. I am just pointing out that "bolt on" is sometimes not quite bolt on. The highflow from GCG that Murray linked above (https://gcg.com.au/turbo-charger-upgrade-skyline-gtst-2iu-xtrgts-s1.html ) uses a core that is the same length as the stock core, and so does not require this extra work. It will look very much like the stock turbo. No-one uses GTR turbos of any flavour (stock, or aftermarket) in a single turbo application on RB20/25. It's not a thing. Yes, people have been putting on GT3076, GTX3076 (and bigger and smaller versions of those) and G30s (of various sizes) onto RB20/25 since forever. But these are not "bolt on". Everything except the 4 bolts to the exhaust manifold change with these. And genuine Garretts are expensive. Non-gen, like Pulsar, etc, are cheaper, variously as good or nearly as good. But still not bolt on. No-one in the right mind would pay for an HKS turbo. Not in this modern day and age. Well, yes, the GCG highflow. You could ask HG what he can do to make the compressor housing sit in the original location. There are surely others doing highflows around the world. And some of the eBay/Temu ones (as reported by Dose) work and don't die. Bit of a lottery though. I would send your turbo to GCG (here in Oz) to be highflowed if you want a trivial no-extra-work option. But seriously, the work required to change inlet and outlet piping is not that hard. That's a boost control problem, not a turbo problem.
    • Thank you all for the replys 🙂 I know that intake would be different but that is one pipe at it is not that hard to get(custom one). I meant mainly bolt to the stock manifold and the turbo elbow. I looked and many sites/forums but they are just "old" with some old HKS turbos from GT-R i guess? What about some Garrets?  Or any other turbo? Is there even a turbo which i can just bolt on? 😄 And yeah i know about that new HKS but that is like 2000k USD without taxes/shipping in here   Iam getting a touch up tune but my "problem" is that on the "not" hot day iam getting peaks around 0,9 bar...and when it was around 15 Celsious i saw peak around 1 bar which is just too much for stock turbo. And of course turbo is old and i like to get some new one for a piece of mind 🙂 
    • I'm working on the assumption that our friend Jasmine here is a Russian (or, possibly Ukrainian) spammer/spambot, based purely on the number of such that I have been having to neuter in the last few weeks. IP address for the OP above was in WA. But that could have been via VPN. Posting at quarter to 4 in the morning is a good sign of being from somewhere in Europe. The last Jasmine that I kicked in the cooch was IP addressed in Ukraine. Even that could have been via VPN, and the bitchbot could have been from Russia, Serbia, China or anywhere. Regardless, was a spambot, so I killed it with fire. The fact that our new friend Jasmine here did not respond in any way to my tart query strongly suggests to me that this OP was just the establishment phase of a user able to be activated for spamming in a week, or 3 or 10.
×
×
  • Create New...