Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 219
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Its gay, we can't even write ideas because of people who would troll this forum to see what people could and would do to circumvent their detection methods. I don't understand the concept of how some cars can run 96db and others at 90.

My car idles quietly so I thought ill do a free rev to 5100rpm. There is no way in f**king hell ill pass. I can still hear the engine over the exhaust though.

Saw you on the road the other week, wtf is on your exhaust tips?

there's a ball of stainless steel wool in the tip, held in by some stainless mesh and clamps. gets rid of all the resonance. changed the muffler but it didn't cure it, so I did that.

I know it looks odd, but it worked and didn't affect economy or performance so.. meh

The main reason the price is so large is due to the time it takes to measure, cut and weld things together. What if you've already got an exhaust and want to get it modified to shut it up but maintain its flowing capabilities. Do you run in line mufflers and hot dogs/resonators or just a muffler at the end? Any photos of the exhaust or brand names of the mufflers used?

Yeah you can do that and it's cheaper. Basically it involves playing with mufflers. I have a custom magnaflow crossflow muffler in mine. Also using cross flow mufflers is good without any real restriction. Having a good mid muffler and an end muffler though would easily make it below legal limits (so basically you'd be making a stock style exhaust just all shiny and larger diameter. Otherwise it would be good if someone could make a varex type system but in a mid muffler with a recessed control box covered by a bolt on panel or something. That way it would be near impossible to tell. Especially if your exhaust is tucked up nice and high like mine is. Probably dreaming there though :P

If you're still keen I can post pics?

So basically anyone can get an exemption then? Can anyone think of a reason why Tomic would need to be given an exemption? The only thing that I can think of is because his smoking hot gf wont be seen dead in anything worth under $100,000.

All I can say is that I sympathize with anyone who says that it is not fair for him to get an exemption when most of you other young guys cant. I have no problem with people getting an exemption in certain situations ie. mechanic etc. but I cannot think of a single legitimate reason for Tomic to get one.

Apparently the M3 is given to him by BMW Australia and he is able to drive it for any situation tennis related (work) and for Tennis and BMW related (promotions). So basically I see that he is able to drive the M3 where ever and when ever he likes, especially as now is the Aust Open/Australian Tennis season looks like Tomic should get off all charges if this is true. Also depends how the Judge sees it.

I agree agree mate but its probably not that skinny pin head that they are interested in seeing the car its the blonde piece of hot sex thats sitting in the passengers seat beside him thats gunna sell beamers to cashed up middle aged men :thumbsup:

That's a crock of BS. As if advertising is worthy of an exemption, as if seeing a tool in an M3 is going to sell you an M3.

A woman at work here has an E36 M3 with the rego plates "R3SSOT" (TOSSER Backwards - so when you see it in your rear view mirror you know who's following you)

LOL :no:

And since when did you become NSW Prez Eric? Congrats.

We got my 4 inch exhaust down to 93db in street form with a very restrictive Euro 4 emissions cat. Still too loud for the test but a good effort I think.

Past the test with 84db with a straight through cat and a 'special' flange. Undetectable and 30sec to remove.

So the only way I can get done is by one of those mobile tester things like was on the ACA "news" story. With me only driving the car once in a blue moon I think my chances are almost nil.

Pretty much what we found down here :D

Good to see someone else in the same ball park, with similar results.

Amazing what a baffle does.

Just a baffle plate with a couple small holes drilled into it, effectively making exhaust 1"

Only good for EPA tests and not daily use. Also... "techincally" illegal unless it's welded in. Fat change of finding that out without taking the exhaust of though

If he had an exemption for sponsorship purposes then he is well within his rights to drive the car. I believe stopping him may constitute a restriction of business which would be against the law, similar to the Terry Hill ARL draft case from the 90s. Put yourself in his shoes he only has a limited time to take advantage of his ability to produce money all it takes is a career ending injury or a massive form slump and no more endorsement deals.

<br>are you his lawyer or his mommy?<br>
<br><br>Either one would be nice so I could get that cash.  <img src="http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/public/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif" class="bbc_emoticon" alt=":)">

<div><br></div><div>Well from a quick google search he has exemption for "reasons pertaining to his career" so that could involve more than just training.</div>

Edited by Desavona

Problem is if it isn't factory - then valved exhausts are illegal as well. At least down here - so one can expect it to be in NSW, and the video is evidence of this :(

It's really stupid that many models of cars these days have them FACTORY and can be controlled MANUALLY.

Yet to do the same, to pass the same laws, if you or I did it to our cars... It's suddenly illegal.

>_<

It really just needs someone with the staying power (and money) to follow it through the courts and win. Set a precedent and then everyone else launches back at them. It really doesn't make sense a Ferrari can pass ADR with a valve, yet a Skyline cannot. The core EPA laws are from 1992, so very dated.

Also farked that Police can report you to the EPA without even MEASURING your car. They just have to report you based upon suspicion you 'might' be over, rather than actual fact. People down here have been reported when their car has been PARKED and not even running (as the notice tell you the time it was noted).

Really feel sorry for your NSW boys overall... The EPA are a bunch of over powered kents.

Mate, this happened to me.

I called up the manager of the Penrith EPA station and abused the crap out of him. This is guilty until proven innocent behaviour...the expected me to take a day off work, pay the test fee to clear the car.

The guy said they cannot enforce the law/regulation to the Police, it is up to them to enforce it however they see fit, so basically a blank cheque. He also said the cops are advised to book cars that are loud and not 'look/appear' loud but clearly that doesn't mean anything here.

All revenue-raising/keep RTA employees in a job imo.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
    • One other thing to mention from my car before we reassemble and refill. Per that earlier diagram,   There should be 2x B length (40mm) and 6x C length (54mm). So I had incorrectly removed one extra bolt, which I assume was 40mm, but even so I have 4x B and 5x C.  Either, the factory made an assembly error (very unlikely), or someone had been in there before me. I vote for the latter because the TCM part number doesn't match my build date, I suspect the TCM was changed under warranty. This indeed led to much unbolting, rebolting, checking, measuring and swearing under the car.... In the end I left out 1x B bolt and put in a 54mm M6 bolt I already had to make sure it was all correct
    • A couple of notes about the TCM. Firstly, it is integrated into the valve body. If you need to replace the TCM for any reason you are following the procedure above The seppos say these fail all the time. I haven't seen or heard of one on here or locally, but that doesn't mean it can't happen. Finally, Ecutek are now offering tuning for the 7 speed TCM. It is basically like ECU tuning in that you have to buy a license for the computer, and then known parameters can be reset. This is all very new and at the moment they are focussing on more aggressive gear holding in sports or sports+ mode, 2 gear launches for drag racing etc. It doesn't seem to affect shift speed like you can on some transmissions. Importantly for me, by having controllable shift points you can now raise the shift point as well as the ECU rev limit, together allowing it to rev a little higher when that is useful. In manual mode, my car shifts up automatically regardless of what I do which is good (because I don't have to worry about it) but bad (because I can't choose to rev a little higher when convenient).  TCMs can only be tuned from late 2016 onwards, and mine is apparently not one of those although the car build date was August 2016 (presumably a batch of ADM cars were done together, so this will probably be the situation for most ADM cars). No idea about JDM cars, and I'm looking into importing a later model valve body I can swap in. This is the top of my TCM A couple of numbers but no part number. Amayama can't find my specific car but it does say the following for Asia-RHD (interestingly, all out of stock....): So it looks like programable TCM are probably post September 2018 for "Asia RHD". When I read my part number out from Ecutek it was 31705-75X6D which did not match Amayama for my build date (Aug-2016)
×
×
  • Create New...