Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My car has lost about 85hp at the wheels, thought the motor was getting sad, but got the leak down test an compression test done both came back fine. tune still seemed good just missing power (from 385 back to bout 300)

wondering if anyone had any ideas wot it could be? thank in advance :thanks:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/393002-wheres-the-power-gone/
Share on other sites

Might get them to pull the exhaust off an see if it makes any difference, could be possible.. tho is there much to collapse in a 3inch metal cat..they are nearly straight thru. Wot could get stuck in the intake? hopefully the air filters get rid of anything big enough to clog an intake pipe. Dont think it would be fuel cos its a noticable difference on the road an it just dont go as good as it used to, an was the same dyno. but will get them get them to check out the exhaust. the turbo's are bout 2-3 years old garret think they're -5's running 20 psi is it very common for turbos to shit emselves or something cause them to run inefficiently?? Havent eva noticed any wierd noises when boosting. just dont seem to get the effect they used to give. something seems to be choking the engine somewhere.

Might get them to pull the exhaust off an see if it makes any difference, could be possible.. tho is there much to collapse in a 3inch metal cat..they are nearly straight thru. Wot could get stuck in the intake? hopefully the air filters get rid of anything big enough to clog an intake pipe. Dont think it would be fuel cos its a noticable difference on the road an it just dont go as good as it used to, an was the same dyno. but will get them get them to check out the exhaust. the turbo's are bout 2-3 years old garret think they're -5's running 20 psi is it very common for turbos to shit emselves or something cause them to run inefficiently?? Havent eva noticed any wierd noises when boosting. just dont seem to get the effect they used to give. something seems to be choking the engine somewhere.

lol I pulled my intake apart on my 32 for shits and giggles and found my missing 13mm spanner in the BOV return pipe??? !!!!

85kws is a big lose, maybe a hole in the intake pipeing or small hose come off, any black smoke under full boost?

Depending on your set up - oiled up AFM's will have that effect. If you are running a recirculation system for blow by gases and it is leaking oil out the bovs (common on GTR's) or you have re-oiled a foam air filter there is a fair chance the AFM's are messed up.

This causes them to read high - the consequence being single digit AFR's, less ignition advance and no horsepowers.

If you had it on the dyno what are the AFR's?

have got a vipec ecu so no longer use the z32 afm's (i should pull them off an sell them..if they're worth anything 2nd hand.)

Car was dyno'd this afternoon, an mechanic thinks its a clogged exhaust. so they gunna take the cat out in the morning an re dyno it to see if thats the prob

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
    • The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
    • But again, the engineers said your cast aluminium would be fine based on the load that would be stretching that section. Same load stretching the bolts in a flex (not the twist), with a much smaller cross sectional area than the original part you've broken. It's why you'd need to be using higher strength bolts, but that's just making up for the strength you lose with less area...
    • I am truly amazed someone on this planet was able to cycle the pump using a scan tool. I've always ghetto cycled them on Nissan 90s shit boxes by slamming the brakes and pulling the handbrake to agitate the rear wheels enough to cause a speed difference
×
×
  • Create New...