Changed Oil, Now Making Noise...

[soultz]

hey guys,

i changed the oil in my r33 gts-t today, i used Motul 10w-40 Technosynthese as i was instructed to do so by the guy who has a 180sx at autobarn today. 10w-40 seems to be the right content as ive doen my homwork on the net and people say the same thing. So i changed it no worries, and the filter, and now the eninge makes a ticking noise??? is this normal? didnt happen before this, and if it did no where near as loud...can someone help?

[Moodles2]

RB25's have hydraulic lifters, it's possible the previous owner used something thick like 20w50 to mask the noise before you bought it.

[soultz]

so is 10w40 ok to use then?

[G4orce]

People at autobarn and super cheap auto always recommend thin oil as thin oil is generally more expensive and because its mean to "better", 10w-40 is used when the car is new and can be used for years until the engine starts seeing internal engine wear which means you need to slightly up the grade of the oil for better protection for your engine.

R33's are getting old 16/ 17 / 18/ 19 yrs old and there is quite a few of them out there that aren't displaying the genuine kms

With engine oil allot of people make the silly mistake of worrying about what brand of oil in there ie motul royal purple etc and not worry about the most important thing which is matching up the right oil grade for your engine and application.

i would use a 15w - 50 or 15w 60,

Its a little thicker on start up which will cut out your ticking and the engine will sound smoother overall , when the cars at normal operating temp, the oil will be a little thicker so you will have better protection. Great for if you give the car a beating and it wont blow as much smoke when hitting boost.

If the sound doesn't go away, probably lifter additives would have been used before to cut the sound out.

Edited March 9, 2012 by G4orce

[soultz]

Thanks for the advice guys! I already put the 10w40 in as u can probably tell haha next change I'll keep that in mind

[SargeRX8]

Next time I do my I change i'm going a little thicker with the Penrite stuff. Currently I use 10w 40. No noises but I feel, as said above, I need a thicker oil

[Girorostar]

What if you rebuild your engine, do you have to go to a thicker grade as well? I rebuilded my engine 2 years ago and i'm using 10-30 mobil 1. Dont have no thicking sound or anything and oil pressure seems to be good. But people keep telling me to go something thicker but i'm not sure if i should.

[KiwiRS4T]

If you have rebuilt your engine with new bearings etc and your oil pressure is good then your 10-30 Mobil 1 seems fine for you.

[jiffo]

Most of these replies presume the OP's noise is worn bigends, so more info is needed.

My thoughts are the new oil has dislodged some gunk and now he's got a sticky lifter.

OP needs to get his noise diagnosed correctly, perhaps post a u-tube so we can hear it.

[blind_elk]

i would use a 15w - 50 or 15w 60,

Its a little thicker on start up

You DO NOT want to be using a 15w oil. This is the viscosity behaviour at cold startup. You want a thin oil to get through all the oil galleries quickly, so you should be using a 5w or maybe 10w.

The noise could be any number of things - sticking lifter, injector noise, piston slap, big ends.

[MannyFresh]

Even 5w-30 is too thick. True story. Bobistheoilguy.com

[AngryRB]

Pretty sure that is worn hydraulic lifters, have heard that in cars with high km's, but its usually just for 10-20seconds

ive been using 0-40 mobil 1 and i reckon its perfect , wont change unless it starts using oil

[Cowboy1600]

Most of these replies presume the OP's noise is worn bigends, so more info is needed.

My thoughts are the new oil has dislodged some gunk and now he's got a sticky lifter.

OP needs to get his noise diagnosed correctly, perhaps post a u-tube so we can hear it.

Wha? Not a single reply suggests it's big ends.

As has been said, previously and by you, it's likely lifter noise which was being muffled by thicker oil. It's not a big deal. You can either ignore it or go slightly thicker next time or, of course, get your lifters cleaned/replaced.

[Dobz]

You shouldn't go to a thicker oil just to mask a proplem that should be dealt with properly. If it is the lifters you should have them pulled out and cleaned or buy new aftermarket ones. A thicker oil will ensure your bottom end wears out quicker on cold starts unless you wait for it to warm up before you even think about leaving your driveway.

[sriver killer]

I LOVE 10W50

The happy medium

[DVS JEZ]

Best to actually drive car to warm it up. Drive with very light throttle. Light load. Dont labour the engine.

Op- can u explain the noise. Is it a tick or a knock

[soultz]

its a ticking. I've been driving it a bit and I must admit the noise has quietened down a fair bit

[MannyFresh]

I LOVE 10W50

The happy medium

You should read bobistheoilguy.com

[joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo]

What if you rebuild your engine, do you have to go to a thicker grade as well? I rebuilded my engine 2 years ago and i'm using 10-30 mobil 1. Dont have no thicking sound or anything and oil pressure seems to be good. But people keep telling me to go something thicker but i'm not sure if i should.

contact the people that built the engine and ask THEM what they built the engine for

You DO NOT want to be using a 15w oil. This is the viscosity behaviour at cold startup. You want a thin oil to get through all the oil galleries quickly, so you should be using a 5w or maybe 10w.

The noise could be any number of things - sticking lifter, injector noise, piston slap, big ends.

depends what you use the car for. if you are doing heavy track work and you need/want an oil that is a 60w, there is really no option that will give you a cold 5w. personally I use edge 10w60 these days

Even 5w-30 is too thick. True story. Bobistheoilguy.com

You should read bobistheoilguy.com

hell if you wanna pour oil into your RB every time you turn the key, be my guest... remember the bottom end design of the RB motor is from the 80's when 20w50 was a standard viscosity, not form 2008 when motors are actually built for 5w30.

also you need to be more specific with the bitog reference... just saying to go to the site doesn't really help people