Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I need some advice. I am going to start doing some track days for fun, maybe the NSW Super Sprint series next year.
I have a set of 16" wheels which would be suitable to use, but I'd be restricted to a 225/45 or 225/50 r16 tyre size.

Is this a disadvantage at all compared to using a 235/45r17 tyre? This would mean I would need to buy new wheels as well as tyres.

The 16" tyres are generally a little bit cheaper too, in Kumho V70A or similar as discussed in this thread.

Is it OK to stick with my 16" wheels and buy some tyres, or am I better moving to a 17" and bigger tyre from the start?
Thanks very much.

Edit:
Car is S14 Silvia with stock engine/power. At best I will have coilovers, that's about all.

the most important thing about a tyre is....can you afford to buy it :)

wider tyres in the same brand and compound would almost always be faster. but the difference may not be worth the money.

even weirder is that same width tyres for larger rims are more expensive. (eg 235/16 vs 235/18) despite there being less rubber. :wacko:

As "the checkout" would say......SCAM!

  • 4 weeks later...

It may well be a scam, but consider this. The 18 inch option will out sell the 16 inch option say for arguments sake 20:1. The cost of the 16 inch is higher therefore becaus the factory has to stop production of the 18, retool the machines to cast 16s in a small amount. Therefore the costs are higher. Economy of scale.

The exact same thing happens with brake pads. Do a set of racing pads have triple the cost of materials in it than a set of boggo stocks? Nup, but the producer has to stop production of the pads that sell 98% of the market, and start making "Motorsport" pads.

  • 1 month later...

The best bang for buck atm imo is the Hankook Z214 2 groove tyres. Not a true semi though, so it depends if what you do allows them to be used.

They're cheap (similar to the FZ201s were in 17" sizes) and extremely quick.

Otherwise, in true semi slicks, there is probably no standout bang for buck options. The cheap options like Toyo and Nitto are lower performance than the FZ201s were, and the fast rubber like Hankook, Yokohama and Dunlop are more expensive. The Hankook Z221 is probably the fastest true semi available now, and its cheaper than the Yokohama and Dunlop rivals so it's probably the best value.

I didn't mention Kumho because they seem a bit hit and miss - on cars they suit they are really fast, on cars they don't suit they're just average, and on some cars they tend to delaminate or blowout - like my 180SX using the same geometry that the R888 and FZ201 didn't have any dramas with.

So far I only be doing track days and the odd super sprint. Would I get knocked back with the Z214's at a supersprint?

And where are you buying your tyres from?

And would these be ok for competition?

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Michelin&tireModel=Pilot+Sport+Cup&partnum=635YR8SPORTCUP&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes

Track days are unlikely to have any problem with them.

Supersprints - depends. NSW supersprints have their own rules which are very different to the rest of the country.

the Michelin Pilot Sport Cup tyres... I don't know anyone who buys them for motorsport here. Can't say what they'd actually be like. I think they're OE on some Porsches though. Maybe talk to someone in a Porsche Club at sprints?

I liked them. Were on my mx5 and tyres before we're r888s

Best I could do with r888s was a 1.13.7 at wakie then with same mods a 1.12.3 on the v70s

Lasted over a year (bought them around may 2012) and did 9 race meets

  • 3 weeks later...

I've got a set of 245/40 R18 Nitto NT01's tracked once on my Soarer. And by once I mean one 5 lap session before the car had a problem and I had to park it. I'll sell them for $950 the set of 4 + freight. Can get pics tonight. Happy to drop them at an e-go depot.

I'm building a Datsun track car now and have no real need or desire to track the Soarer anymore, and 18s aren't going to be any good for my 120Y!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
×
×
  • Create New...