Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

They may have tread for 300 laps, but doesn't mean they will have grip for that long.

If your planning more sprints and hill climbs, the softs would still be the go I guess.

I mean they last that long :) But apparently had grip all the way to the canvas... In saying that it is probably bias info :P

I've had my medium V70's since June 2012 and did....

rest of 2012 - 4 race meets (some meets had either 4 sessions (1 X qual and 3 x race) or 8 if I double entered (giggle)

2013 5 race meets and 2 of them I had doubkle entered again (MX5 and superTT)

this year1 hill climb and sprint

so they lasted very well!!!

they also had about 300kms of road use give or take.

I've had my medium V70's since June 2012 and did....

rest of 2012 - 4 race meets (some meets had either 4 sessions (1 X qual and 3 x race) or 8 if I double entered (giggle)

2013 5 race meets and 2 of them I had doubkle entered again (MX5 and superTT)

this year1 hill climb and sprint

so they lasted very well!!!

they also had about 300kms of road use give or take.

Wow nice effort! So they are certainly worth the money :yes:

I've run both the mediums and hard V70a on the GTR and was happy with them. Just bought another set of mediums the other day for hillclimbs

I found the mediums were destroyed on a 20 lap race on a hot day though, the hards were fine for sessions up to an hour without undue wear. And they grip very well long after the visible tread is gone (it is designed to wear off early in the tyre's life, the wear indicators are on the 2 main grooves).

I have no experience with their softs; but I would have gone them for hillclimbs if I could of got them...you can't have too soft for a hillclimb

Also one thing to keep in mind with these, on the GTR and GTSt at least, they work best at 44psi hot. I tried them at both 42 and 46 and they were slower.

  • 4 weeks later...

Yeah sorry I don't believe that every racing team in the world was wrong. Hectic drifters want stretch because 1) narrow tyres are cheaper and 2)it is a fashion and that is about the only people who do it.

I'll stick with the widest tyre I can fit on a given rim size except for 2 cases:

Assuming I understand what i've read - I think your focussing on the wrong bit. Yes, the widest tyre that will fit within the wheel well and past the suspension components is the best, however, you should put that tyre on the widest rim that is approved for that size tyre.

FWIW, here's pics of 265s on 10.5 inch rims, for those concerned with aesthetics;

gallery_15274_3064_170677.jpg

gallery_15274_3064_202520.jpg

I'll second that. I gained almost time and a whole bunch of "feel" changing from 9" to 10" wheels with 255 semis (which measured 270) on my old 180SX. They were pretty bulgy on the 9s and gave no feedback near the limit - very snappy. On 10s they were slightly stretched, heaps more progressive on the limit and faster at both QR and Lakeside.

I'll second that. I gained almost time and a whole bunch of "feel" changing from 9" to 10" wheels with 255 semis (which measured 270) on my old 180SX. They were pretty bulgy on the 9s and gave no feedback near the limit - very snappy. On 10s they were slightly stretched, heaps more progressive on the limit and faster at both QR and Lakeside.

Interesting feedback! I run 265 on a 9" which measures about 280 and they felt OK, in saying that i have nothing to compare against so if i find some wider rims ill see if i can notice a difference.

  • 2 months later...

Probably been done to death but after a tyre on which I can drive 400 kms, do a hill climb and sprint then drive 400 kms home on. Seeing as the events are in Albany in the middle of winter there is a distinct chance it will be cold/raining. Not after the last word in competitive R comps (have some A050's for proper stuff) but was wondering if there was a decent S tyre tyre or similar that I could use for this trip and as a roadie thereafter.

Falken RT615.

Kumho KU36.

Yokie AD08R.

Other suggestions?

Scrap the Faulkens, I have them, they are crap, the K version is suppose to be better but have heard any proof yet

The Kumhos are good as an alrounder, no complaints from me about them, except the AD08s are way better and worth every cent they cost

The yokie AD08s I currently have on my 32 are by far the best road tyre I have ever driven on

The hankook RS-3s I currently have on my 34 are a really really good tyre, slightly better the KU36, but just not quiet as good as the AD08s

I am keen as mustard to try the Achilles 123s next as I believe they are going to be a really good tyre and for the price they are impossible to beat value for money

  • 2 weeks later...

my take on these street-track crossover tyres is that anything that costs as much as cheaper semis is pointless - buy the semis! So for me that rules out AD08, RS3 and R1R. If you really have to have the fastest tyre over 120 UTQG reagardless, WTAC pre-control tyres pretty much proved its the RS3. And they should be cheaper than AD08 too.

Otherwise that basically leaves the choices down to KU36, RSR and 123S if you're looking for something cheaper than semis that will do an OK job on the track and road..

RSR are the fastest of the rest but wear out so quickly that buying semis works out to be better value.

KU36 - I've had these on a Supra and Legnum. They do respectable times and can cop an absolute flogging. They were quiet on the Supra but noisey on the Legnum. They were good in the wet imo, but many disagree with that. 180 treadwear. These lasted as long as normal road tyres on my Supra and did heaps of track days locally and interstate. I wouldn't hesitate to buy these again.

123S - all i really know is the Excel racers do pretty respectable times on them. 200 treadwear and very deep tread - might be a bit squirmy at first but they should last pretty well. Sidewalls seem nice and stiff too. I just put a set of these on my Datto yesterday. The main reasons I chose these over KU36 was that he had them in stock and gave me a pretty sharp price on them.

Edited by hrd-hr30

Well the A050's are $520 each and the KU36 were out on special from Tempe tyres at $250 each. I was going to buy them but I noticed that their special of free shipping didn't include anyone who lived outside a capital city. So I ditched that and will probably get them from the local shop as by the time you add freight and fitting there is nothing in the price.

Either that or some AD08R's if I can find them on special at some point as they are $400 each.

Just needing a road tyre than can do an occasional hillclimb. Basically they are for driving to the track more so than on it. 600km worth of travel to/from the track and four degrees neg camber don't make for a long lasting tyre.

Edited by djr81

Personally, I reckon if you're after a tyre that's more for driving to the track than on it, you'd be better off running less camber too, so the car matches that ethos as well. You won't need 4degree camber on a crossover tyre, it will be better on the track and road with less camber.

Hankook RS3 are cheaper and faster than AD08Rs. But if you're looking for a tyre more for the drive to the track than on it, KU36 or 123S will be the ones that last better on the road and cost way less than AD08R. You can even get R888 or NT01 semis cheaper than AD08R, and they won't last much less on the road than AD08R.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
    • That still isn't a lot to go on. I don't have a Y50 Fuga Head Unit wiring diagram. I can say that a lot of nissans of that age shared head unit plugs, so if you are in Australia something like this would probably help: https://aerpro.com/app091# You plug that into the car loom, then either plug the head unit ISO into that (if it has ISO), or you buy and ISO adapter harness that you wire in. Bit of stuffing around, but once you have ISO its easy to change things in future.
    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
×
×
  • Create New...