Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I don't think I'm going to go backwards going a Advan A050 M in 265/35 to a Hankook C70 "Soft" on 285/35 so may just give them a try. I'm also doing a lot of sprint events so the softer compound should come on quicker for these

So Hankook only have the 265/35 in soft. Hopefully I'm going to trial fit the 295/30 A050 this weekend, if they clear I'll get a set of them otherwise I might try a set of Hankooks in the 265/35 and then I can get a fairly accurate comparison to the A050 M

  • 2 weeks later...

Ended up getting the Z221 C70 "soft" fitted in 265/35R18 last night.

Initial impressions, they are wider than the same size Advan A050 and at 100km/hr a fair bit noisier (mind you the A050 were bald so maybe they are not). Appear to be very sticky even when cold so shall be interesting. Going to Barbagallo on Saturday so can basically do a back to back with the A050 in medium BUT it may be raining which will piss me off.

  • Like 1

It's forecast to rain all of tomorrow which made me go to a No Limits event at the track last night to try and set a time in the dry. I got basically 4 hot laps in, only one decent lap and did a 60.19.

That compares to a 61.58 on almost dead Advan A050M, I also picked up 0.75sec through one section of the track from changing my line and throttle application. So they are quicker but by how much is hard to tell.

$450 cheaper though, I don't think you can go wrong either way

Nice!

I just sold my 120Y track toy and about to buy another set of semis for the Soarer, so it's great to hear this feedback. After driving the 120Y on A050M, I just can't bring myself to go back to the half worn Nittos I already have for the Soarer... Z221s it is!

Edited by hrd-hr30

Ended up getting the Z221 C70 "soft" fitted in 265/35R18 last night.

Initial impressions, they are wider than the same size Advan A050 and at 100km/hr a fair bit noisier (mind you the A050 were bald so maybe they are not). Appear to be very sticky even when cold so shall be interesting. Going to Barbagallo on Saturday so can basically do a back to back with the A050 in medium BUT it may be raining which will piss me off.

What did you pay?

Also curious about how many track days you get out of them, be sure to let us know :)

A set of Hoosier R6 or the superceding model R7 might be a good thing for the Soarer

lol the yanks get away with murder in DOT tyre classes over there - those R7 takes 'cheater slicks' to a whole new level! Not even '2 groove cheater slicks' anymore, just a few dots pretending to be tread now!

Soarer needs semis to stay in the Road Reg class at Mt Cotton hill climb. And being a pure street car, street legal tyres are more suited to the car's philosophy. Besides, I have to remove the rear seat to have enough room to carry non road legal tyres out to the track, and that's a PITA. Would rather drive to and from on the semis.

I bought a set of new (3yo stock) 235/40R18 Z221 C70/Soft compound (80 treadwear) semis for $264ea incl freight. I have a cheap-arse tyre buying gene that is hard to overcome... They still look and feel fresh and soft, so I think they'll be fine. The A050M I had for the 120Y that convinced me to buy better tyres for the Soarer, were 3yo and secondhand (off a mate, so I knew they were stored well) and they were awesome! Fitted them up on Saturday morning and I've entered a sprint at Lakeside this Wednesday to try them out.

Edited by hrd-hr30

Cheap-arse gene normally dominates.

Those Z221 will go great on the Soarer, probably more suited to shorter sprint events. I'd say super soft C90 if you can get them would be awesome hillclimb spec.

Still be interested to see/hear people locally running the Hoosier. Price will keep numbers low but they seem to have a damn good reputation. For hillclimb the A6/A7 would be the choice.

How does everyone go with pressures and temperatures?

I had mine working at 32deg hot the other night but went to test them cold the next morning and they were 25psi for 3 and 22psi for the hard working front left. Seems like a very high delta to me at 7-10psi but maybe that's just normal. I managed to shag out the centre blocks a little initially as the pressure were getting to more like 35psi hot because I started at 28psi. My GTR seems to love doing this, ripping apart the compound it the center of the tyre, had done it for both the A050 and Z221 when new. I always just assume it's the pressure getting a little too high but maybe it's something else?

Those kind of pressure gains are perfectly normal for a hard working tyre in my experience. I normally aim for about 32psi hot as well on heavy cars. I had the Soarer on the track yesterday. Set the cold pressures to 24psi LF - the hardest working tyre, 25psi LR, and 26psi from both R side tyres before starting. Had to bleed about 1psi out of a couple of them after the first session - including the LF, so it gained about 9psi.

It's normal for a treaded semi slick to tear more of the rubber off immediately beside a tread groove too. The A050 and Z221 both have tread groove right near the centre of the tyre and cause that centre wear. Not much you can do about that, except drive slower! :P But I agree that 35psi is a bit too high, and may have contributed as well.

I was very impressed with these Z221's yesterday. 1.5sec faster than the Nitto NT01s I had before! I did fit a FMIC as well since last time, but can't imagine that being worth much time. It gained 1.5psi with the intercooler, and does go a little better by seat of the pants. But the tyres are damn good!

for tarmac rallies - it would be worth your while buying them off Alan Stean of Z Car Workshop in QLD I reckon. He's the QLD distributor and very experienced in tarmac rallies. The bit extra you might pay in freight will be worth it for advice he can give IMO.

  • Like 1

I tried NS2-R, very little grip and tore apart on a ripple strip. Not even in the league of Federal RS-R, let alone a proper semi slick.

Which tread wear rating NS-2R did you use? The 120 or the 180?

I was looking forwards to a review of these, I was hoping it would be positive as the price point looks good for an entry level track orientated tyre.

Any more detail on your time on them / how they gripped from cold et al?

Which tread wear rating NS-2R did you use? The 120 or the 180?

I was looking forwards to a review of these, I was hoping it would be positive as the price point looks good for an entry level track orientated tyre.

Any more detail on your time on them / how they gripped from cold et al?

I can't remember now, I'll try dig out some pictures.

They just weren't anything special, grip from cold was average they needed heat in them to work, good grip when hot but no better than Federal RS-R or something like that.

Pretty boring tyre, I wouldn't bother with them again. They are miles off being a semi slick too, it's just another road tyre like RS-R, KU36 etc.

  • Like 1

Are the R888 still a hit and miss tyre? I have a budget of around $1000 - $1200 for a set of tyres to use at the Great Tarmac Rally in Victoria.

I used to live in a similar area to where the rally is being held and it was often damp/wet at this time of year but I can't be sure.

There's some 2014 production Toyo R888 at St George Tyres for $1160/set in 245/40r17, could anyone suggest any other options for my budget?

http://www.stgeorgetyres.com.au/tyres/toyo-tyres-245-40-17-proxes-r888/product-detail.aspx

Cheers.

stay away from the 888....they are not hit and miss, they just only work well on light cars.

Buy these instead @250 each: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/235-45-17-2354517-94W-HANKOOK-VENTUS-TD-Z221-R-COMPOUND-SEMI-SLICK-TYRES-NEW-/281783694508?hash=item419b9df4ac. Just check first, it says the compound is soft which may be too soft for your use depending on temps and the length of stages.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
×
×
  • Create New...