Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

"hate with a passion" is pauline re a muslim, not the feedback on NT01 in this thread. but anyway

if i was running a trailered to the track car I'd be buying cheap slicks.  They are likely to be cheaper and longer lasting for the same grip than any semi slick. you just run the risk of leaving it on the trailer if it rains all day.

Oh, and if you have a 33 gtr for track only it should run 285 or 295 front and rear with a set of rims that suit.  that gives you best traction and the ability to rotate to all 4 corners.

17s are always cheaper than 18s in the same width, so if they clear the brakes 17s are the way to go.  victory to the marketing department for charging more for less rubber....

1 hour ago, GeeDog said:

We've run 245 on 8" rims on the front / 275 on 9" rims on the rear in NT01's at Mallala (I assume that's where you'll be using it) on an R33 GTST with pretty good results - best lap time was 1:21 with slower traffic on the track (ie no clear laps - probably good for sub 1:20 with a clear run). We have a bit less power than you - 320rwkw - and a 2 way diff.

Last time out we swapped the fronts to 235 & rears to 275 Hankook C91 super soft (old used tyres) and did a best time of high 1:18.

I may be interested in selling the NT01's - 245 & 275 in 17's - as they won't fit over our new brakes. Fronts have done 3 events, rears 1 event - pm me if interested. 

what were the c91s worth?

ill let u kno mate 

50 minutes ago, Duncan said:

"hate with a passion" is pauline re a muslim, not the feedback on NT01 in this thread. but anyway

if i was running a trailered to the track car I'd be buying cheap slicks.  They are likely to be cheaper and longer lasting for the same grip than any semi slick. you just run the risk of leaving it on the trailer if it rains all day.

Oh, and if you have a 33 gtr for track only it should run 285 or 295 front and rear with a set of rims that suit.  that gives you best traction and the ability to rotate to all 4 corners.

17s are always cheaper than 18s in the same width, so if they clear the brakes 17s are the way to go.  victory to the marketing department for charging more for less rubber....

gtst mate.

what slicks do you recommend? and rough price? lol as i wont be doing much rain days!

i use these at the drags tho

FB_IMG_1468918331809.jpg

FB_IMG_1468918312478.jpg

FB_IMG_1468918322335.jpg

lol you should probably say, or update your sig then :P (edit: make that profile, I can sort of see it in your sig now:blush:)

you are probably limited to 8" on the front of a 33 gtst unless you are putting larger guards on, and that means no larger than 245s.

as for brand I'd just ring the local motorsport suppliers and see what they have....I haven't bought slicks for years but I think they are worth considering for track only

4 hours ago, Adz2332 said:

what were the c91s worth?

About a second as it turns out:D We bought them for a bargain from someone clearing out a shed - were a bit worried about the age but after a few laps and a bit of heat they came good. 

9 hours ago, GeeDog said:

We've run 245 on 8" rims on the front / 275 on 9" rims on the rear in NT01's at Mallala (I assume that's where you'll be using it) on an R33 GTST with pretty good results - best lap time was 1:21 with slower traffic on the track (ie no clear laps - probably good for sub 1:20 with a clear run). We have a bit less power than you - 320rwkw - and a 2 way diff.

Last time out we swapped the fronts to 235 & rears to 275 Hankook C91 super soft (old used tyres) and did a best time of high 1:18.

I may be interested in selling the NT01's - 245 & 275 in 17's - as they won't fit over our new brakes. Fronts have done 3 events, rears 1 event - pm me if interested. 

how much for the nto1s mate?

3 hours ago, GeeDog said:

2 x 245/45R17 & 2 x 275/40R17 $550 - new cost with shipping to Adelaide is $1100. I can get some pics & measure tread depth if you are interested. Can also supply fitted to 17x8 & 17x9 Enkei RP01 rims.

 

some pics would be great mate.

if its easier

[email protected]

I prefer a square set, that way you can rotate.

I run 255 all round and they seem to hook up well with ~340kW and the occasional 370kW when I over take people... #datscrambleboostlyfeyo (yep HG is fuuuarked now).

  • Like 1

Yoko AO50's still getting good reports for being able to retain grip after a lot of heat cycles?  A set of 17" Hankook Z214's will cost me about $400 each so the Yoko's will only be good value if they heat cycle longer.

  • Like 1

Well its not magic but they appear to hang on pretty well.  Certainly massively better than the 48's if people are to be believed.  I would buy which ever is quicker to start with that way when they degrade (And they will) you will be progressing towards the other tyre.

Swapping them over on the rims left to right, front to rear helps with the wear on the tread blocks too.

Seems to be the Hankook Soft that goes off quickly with heat cycles. The Z214 Medium cycles very well, if Nev's experience with them over a couple of years is anything to go by.

FWIW, Nankangs ran 60.2 at Lakeside yesterday. That's 1.1sec faster than NT01 and less than 4 tenths slower than the Hankook Soft PB. Not bad for cheap rubbish in a medium compound vs probably the fastest semi available. Hell, they make NT01s look expensive! 

  • Like 2

Given your experience Harry I'd get a set of Nankangs if they had my sizes. I've ordered a set of soft Z214's in 275 and 245, softs because the Z does not heat tyres much. Except the rears in a straight line :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day  
    • While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
    • Are you 100% sure this isn't tune related?
    • 140-150 across the board. At this point hoping the grounding harness fixes it. My grounds are all tied to the chassis and none to the battery. For SR and KA that’s never been a problem for me but had a few other guys here and Reddit who told me RB really like a very solid ground setup tied to the battery so going to try that next, I’m stumped if that doesn’t do it. Never had a car have spark and fuel and not fire off before. Only thing I can think is the spark is intermittent/weak because of grounds nothing else really makes sense at this point 
    • I am having close to the same issue. Can you help me with what wire you grounded to get your pump to trigger?
×
×
  • Create New...