Jump to content
SAU Community

Circuit Semi Slicks

Roy

By Roy,
in Motorsport Discussion & Builds

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 554
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

hrd-hr30
hrd-hr30

A050 M seem to grip OK even when cold just an excuse to post a pic of the mighty 120Y at Mt Cotton yesterday But they are the grippiest tyre I've ever used.

Snowman
Snowman

I ran on the Hankooks Z221's for the first time recently in my new bus as they are the control tyre for AMCamps. These weren't the softs that the WTAC guys run. They were the normal compound. One int

gtr jet
gtr jet

Do a couple of quick heli's in the closest intersection and then park it back in the garage overnight.

Posted Images

  • 9 months later...
260DET Experienced

260DET

Posted
Posted

Geez, this thread needs a bump to keep up with what's happening on the semi slick club race scene. OK I'm bitching, a set of new Hankook 214 SOFT worked great at Challenge Bathurst 2016 but that was it, plenty of tread left but zero grip, wheelspin in top gear, no grip whatsoever at Morgan park a few months later. So I'm thinking mediums instead for this year's Challenge but the price has gone up of course no doubt as a result of  their club popularity transferring to the propretend (TV exposure) lot. What was once a budget buy is now a greed grab in price, I'm looking elsewhere.       

sweefu Mentor

sweefu

Posted
Posted

I just picked up a set of 245/40r17 Kumho V70A in the K60 (medium) compound. 

I'll be trying them out at a tarmac rally next month. I think this tyre was more popular a few years ago. Although it's been manufactured quite recently (my set have a July 2016 manufacture date) it seems like they aren't as popular as the Toyos, Hankooks and Advans etc.

From what I can see they should be a good medium budget tyre, my set cost $1100 all up, but the other brands were more like $1600 - $1800 a set. 

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

V70A used to be our control tyre, I used to run the mediums and found them the best of the mid priced tyres.

of course then the hankooks came along at mid price and blew away even the most expensive ones which turned the market upside down for a while.  I haven't priced them lately but per Richard's post, if they have got expensive that may make v70a a good choice again.

One surprising thing about the v70a, they like really high pressures. Like 40-45 hot high. 

  • Like 1
sweefu Mentor

sweefu

Posted
Posted
20 minutes ago, Duncan said:

V70A used to be our control tyre, I used to run the mediums and found them the best of the mid priced tyres.

of course then the hankooks came along at mid price and blew away even the most expensive ones which turned the market upside down for a while.  I haven't priced them lately but per Richard's post, if they have got expensive that may make v70a a good choice again.

One surprising thing about the v70a, they like really high pressures. Like 40-45 hot high. 

Thanks very much for the feedback Duncan and recommendation about the higher pressure. 

I originally wanted the Hankooks but could only find them for $1800/set, so the Kumhos seemed like excellent value. 

Have you ever used them in damp conditions? The event I am using them in (Snowy River Sprint, Lakes Entrance VIC) is sometimes damp. 

Cheers. 

260DET Experienced

260DET

Posted
Posted

Good to see some input, there are quite a few tyres around described as semi slicks but which have road tyre type tread so that excludes them. Nitto NT01's  have their fans as do the new R888's .                                                                                                                .

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

Well from my point of view the hankooks at 1800 a set are still a better buy than the dunlops or yokos are 2500 a set since they perform better. They were are no brainer for the performance they gave at the old pricing but if you want to be at the front of a competition you would still have to buy them at whatever price since they are the best tyre.

But now the pricing has shifted I guess it is worth looking again at the 888, v70a etc for general/club use where price is more important than outright speed. The 888 used to be poor under heavy cars like GTRs but I'm interested to see results if they have changed them recently.

260DET Experienced

260DET

Posted
Posted

Bathurst in November will be my last run on 17" tyres so I'm a bit price sensitive having to buy a new set for only that event. With the Hankooks it looks like the price has gone up due to demand not to production cost, it's a bit annoying because it's always the club blokes looking for a bargain that first try out new tyres and so establish their reputation or not. Oh well, I'm going to try out a newbie and see how they go and keep quiet if they are good, stuff it :)

hrd-hr30 Grand Master

hrd-hr30

Posted
Posted (edited)

Richard, I don't think anything has really changed in the semi slick landscape since you asked the same questions last year, other than the R888R which are still a bit of an unknown quantity. I haven't seen any decent cars try them or heard any reviews. Price of every tyre has crept up a bit. Just go back a page or two and the advice is all still relevant, including the warnings about Hankook Softs giving up the ghost after not many heat cycles, and way before the tread wears out... the Mediums cycle well.

I've had the Nankangs on the Soarer for just over a year now. Wearing well and heat cycle well, although I have only used them twice since buying another car at the start of the year, they're still getting PBs when I dust the big Soarer off for a run. I also bought a set for my other car that I've mainly been using this year. Definitely the pick of the budget semis. 1.09sec faster than NT01 at Lakeside on the Soarer, and they're cheaper. Or compared to arguably the fastest semi available, Hankook Z221 C70 Soft, the Nankang is just 0.27 slower at Lakeside, for half the price. More sizes available than when they first came out too.

Edited by hrd-hr30
260DET Experienced

260DET

Posted
Posted

With you Harry, going with a set of the Nankangs. Pissed off with the advice I got, or did not get, about the soft Hankooks from the Q distributor. From what I know now for a track like Bathurst mediums are the go, they just take a bit more time to heat up but cycle way better than the softs which is irrelevant when you are doing 20 minute sessions.

hrd-hr30 Grand Master

hrd-hr30

Posted
Posted

mistake above. Levin's normal pressures were 32F 36R according to my notebook.

I did another hillclimb on the weekend with it and tried lower pressures 28F 32R. It had heaps more tyre squeal and heaps more understeer. Ran 50.72, 50.79 and 50.69 like that. Pumped then back up to 32F 36R and was instantly back to the normal  sort of times with a 50.06, much less squealing and noticeably improved grip. Ran them 2psi higher on Sunday and they felt a little better again, set a new PB of 49.92.

Based on that, I'm going to try the a bit more pressure in the Soarer next time too.

  • 2 months later...
Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

32-34 hot.....most people prefer the lower end of the range.

cold is too hard to guess, depends on track, car and driver.  If you have no idea where to start set them to 28, do 3 hard laps, come into the pits hot and let them down to 32

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • GTSBoy
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • Duncan
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
×
×
  • Create New...