Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I thought you had plenty of corn juice pumps over there Amon, no ethanol near you?

Im inland a couple of hours from newcastle, and that being the closest place with e85, and my trips being long, and the cost on new ecu + bigger exhaust, injectors, fuel pump, tune etc this is my best and by far cheapest option

i'm no expert,you'll have to look it up, but i think once you mix them together, methanol lasts for a long time

or indefinitly, i thought it has a reaction when mixed with water I know it still f**king hurts in your eyes after 6 months in water..lol

by itself it doesn;t last long.

with a cdi i run water, but with stagea i had water, then 50/50, might go with 50/50 as ignition is

"maybe" not the best(splitfires coils and b@m new volt 18V ignition amplifier), decide when the time comes..

and what it tunes like

i hate mixing though, so might just try water first and if it makes 300rwkw on up to 23psi ish i'll be happy

cheers

darren

Edited by jet_r31

I have a nitro powered hovercraft I made when I was in high school. I bought 10-15% nitro meth for it which lasted up to 6 months no problem. I just squeezed the air out before putting the lid back on.

I'm not planning on ever filling my tank to the top. Just enough for the occasional squirt and half full on track days and keep an eye on it.

I'm getting methanol free now from a mate who races sprintcars :) winning

I think the consensus was it's legal so long as you don't rely on it to pass emissions testing. I'd imagine the WM mix would have to be non flammable if stored in the boot as well.....

Im running a Aquamist HFS6 kit, with direct port injection in each runner of inlet manifold.

well i should not say running but have wired up a HFS6 car is still not on the road/running it is being put together

Im running a Aquamist HFS6 kit, with direct port injection in each runner of inlet manifold.

well i should not say running but have wired up a HFS6 car is still not on the road/running it is being put together

Keen to hear how it goes

  • 2 weeks later...

so i need to get a new kit but only want to spend under $500 delivered. I am leaning towards the snow stage 2 kit for $460 delivered, but i am after peoples opinions on what they would get for under $500?

the car is map sensor, running 17psi on stock motor making 290rwkw. Thanks if you guys can help as i am looking at purchasing in the next couple days.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...