Jump to content
SAU Community

Changing Fan On Gtr To Thermo Fans?

wingnut999

By wingnut999,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Thermo's rob power from the engine too, they are less efficient than the engine fan and suck a heap of current from the alternator whenever they are on.

If you set them at a high enough temperature so they barely come on you may be better off, that's my plan. One small thermo and one large one set at different temps may help too.

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted
If you set them at a high enough temperature so they barely come on you may be better off,
That's how the are supposed to be set up. But very few actually set them up this way. Many set them so they are permanently on, which totally defeats the purpose - all that does is shift the load on the engine from the fan to the alternator.

The problem I had when I tried it (32 GTS4), was getting air to flow through the radiator while the car was moving. I could only JUST get airflow, and the slightest uphill in the road coud induce the fan to activate.

For the few kW gained by removing the load of the fan, it is not worth cooking an engine.

GTRsean Grand Master

GTRsean

Posted
Posted

Well those cars were designed by the manufacturer to use thermos as standard.

A working clutch fan such as the nissans will only draw engine power when at idle or just above, as they are supposed to taper off/decouple as RPM increases.

As they wear out they tend to stay engaged longer and start to sound like an EA falcooon.

51NNA Community Regular

51NNA

Posted
Posted (edited)

When they wear out they stop working i.e you can hold the fan while revving the engine when hot, the viscosity in the gel changes and with the correct type of battery the thermo wont put strain on the alt.

Edited by 51NNA
abr33 Proficient

abr33

Posted
Posted

and with the correct type of battery the thermo wont put strain on the alt.

I beg to differ, it dont matter if your running an n70z or a ride on mower battery if your fan draws 30 amps your alternator needs to make 30 amps, it does however stop the alternator spiking as such.. Unless thats what you meant?

gotRICE? Veteran

gotRICE?

Posted
Posted

So all the WRX's and many other cars that come from the factory with a thermo fan are going too cook there engines? lol...

You ever driven a Falcon? lol

A clutch fan on an E/W mounted engine wouldnt do much cooling now would it?

51NNA Community Regular

51NNA

Posted
Posted

I beg to differ, it dont matter if your running an n70z or a ride on mower battery if your fan draws 30 amps your alternator needs to make 30 amps, it does however stop the alternator spiking as such.. Unless thats what you meant?

Yes, i didnt mean the battery will stop the current draw, but with the correct battery the load would be reduced on the alt, unless the thermos constantly on.

You ever driven a Falcon? lol

A clutch fan on an E/W mounted engine wouldnt do much cooling now would it?

...were did i say "put a clutch fan on a wrx" All im saying is MOST cars come with thermos with no cooling issues and yes ive driven a falcon and worked on 100s, whats that got to do with anything?

abr33 Proficient

abr33

Posted
Posted

On this topic, is there anywhere to but new clutch and fan for rb25? nissan want 750 for it and im not spending that much ill go second hand first, my plastic fan has cracks and the clutch holds the fan on permanently and certainly makes some noise at 8000 revs :-/

Simon-S14 Grand Master

Simon-S14

Posted
Posted

On this topic, is there anywhere to but new clutch and fan for rb25? nissan want 750 for it and im not spending that much ill go second hand first, my plastic fan has cracks and the clutch holds the fan on permanently and certainly makes some noise at 8000 revs :-/

Garage 7 sell both the fans and the hubs at a much more reasonable price then that

www.garage7.com.au

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      spot the stagea

      By Duncan · Posted

      roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • AnimalGarage
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...