Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thermo's rob power from the engine too, they are less efficient than the engine fan and suck a heap of current from the alternator whenever they are on.

If you set them at a high enough temperature so they barely come on you may be better off, that's my plan. One small thermo and one large one set at different temps may help too.

If you set them at a high enough temperature so they barely come on you may be better off,
That's how the are supposed to be set up. But very few actually set them up this way. Many set them so they are permanently on, which totally defeats the purpose - all that does is shift the load on the engine from the fan to the alternator.

The problem I had when I tried it (32 GTS4), was getting air to flow through the radiator while the car was moving. I could only JUST get airflow, and the slightest uphill in the road coud induce the fan to activate.

For the few kW gained by removing the load of the fan, it is not worth cooking an engine.

Well those cars were designed by the manufacturer to use thermos as standard.

A working clutch fan such as the nissans will only draw engine power when at idle or just above, as they are supposed to taper off/decouple as RPM increases.

As they wear out they tend to stay engaged longer and start to sound like an EA falcooon.

When they wear out they stop working i.e you can hold the fan while revving the engine when hot, the viscosity in the gel changes and with the correct type of battery the thermo wont put strain on the alt.

Edited by 51NNA

and with the correct type of battery the thermo wont put strain on the alt.

I beg to differ, it dont matter if your running an n70z or a ride on mower battery if your fan draws 30 amps your alternator needs to make 30 amps, it does however stop the alternator spiking as such.. Unless thats what you meant?

So all the WRX's and many other cars that come from the factory with a thermo fan are going too cook there engines? lol...

You ever driven a Falcon? lol

A clutch fan on an E/W mounted engine wouldnt do much cooling now would it?

I beg to differ, it dont matter if your running an n70z or a ride on mower battery if your fan draws 30 amps your alternator needs to make 30 amps, it does however stop the alternator spiking as such.. Unless thats what you meant?

Yes, i didnt mean the battery will stop the current draw, but with the correct battery the load would be reduced on the alt, unless the thermos constantly on.

You ever driven a Falcon? lol

A clutch fan on an E/W mounted engine wouldnt do much cooling now would it?

...were did i say "put a clutch fan on a wrx" All im saying is MOST cars come with thermos with no cooling issues and yes ive driven a falcon and worked on 100s, whats that got to do with anything?

On this topic, is there anywhere to but new clutch and fan for rb25? nissan want 750 for it and im not spending that much ill go second hand first, my plastic fan has cracks and the clutch holds the fan on permanently and certainly makes some noise at 8000 revs :-/

On this topic, is there anywhere to but new clutch and fan for rb25? nissan want 750 for it and im not spending that much ill go second hand first, my plastic fan has cracks and the clutch holds the fan on permanently and certainly makes some noise at 8000 revs :-/

Garage 7 sell both the fans and the hubs at a much more reasonable price then that

www.garage7.com.au

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've looked up the parts number (41011AL501). It's around $700 OEM. Usually our Infiniti G35 here in Canada have interchangeable parts with my Stagea but the parts number are not the same. I have looked around and it seems the JDM 2005 V35 Skyline (which is the same as our G35) has the same caliper but I cannot confirm. And I can't find a repair kit. The inner brake pads drags on the rotor, seems to be rusty piston. Thanks for the info by the way
    • This coupled with 6-9 speed autos with ridiculously short gearing is why these modern shitbox cars always seem so fast off the line. If it wasn't for those things, Raptors would not seem fast. The problem we have is there is a driveability gap between a more gentle take off and a wheelspinning sideways launch. The difference between ankle flex required to achieve one and ankle flex required to achieve the other is about 0.5°.
    • Yeah I think I'm also with the opposite here. It's 'hard to keep up with traffic' because in the real world I'm accelerating with 15% throttle and they are pinning it. It feels like I'm being an overt dickhead at anything above 15% throttle, so the car sounds like I'm being an overt dickhead to keep up with/get ahead of traffic when I'm really just trying to drive with traffic. There would be no issue 'keeping up with traffic' if we used the same level of throttle input/aggression to drive around. People really do just drive around with their foot nearly pinned in econoboxes.
    • To be fair it's the other way around. 300kw is boring in a modern Golf or BMW. They are so competent / well-engineered / devoid of emotion that you have to go stupid fast to feel anything. Whereas the <300kw RB still makes all the right noises and it feels good to drive. Can pull off at the lights with the turbo whooshing and the blow-off pssshing and feel like the coolest kid on the block. Just don't look to the side where you'll see the bored housewifes in their shitbox Yaris/Corolla/Camry that kept up because you didn't go fast at all
    • 300kW is so boring in a Skyline, you'll get spanked by someone's mum's Golf with Alibaba pipes, and an email tune.
×
×
  • Create New...