Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thanks josh.

okay, update

ive been away from a computer for the past two weeks because i have been driving this thing flat out!

loving it to bits!

made some small progress.

sold the shit i dont need off the RB26.

picked up a little SAAS boost guage, car is making the stock 11pound. might bend the actuator rod for shits and gigs

812798_10200530816175859_1729803370_o.jpg

monday came and i had to go and pickup some lunch for dad.

park the car and hop out, go inside order the food, as im collecting my food, i hear a bang, turn around to see a f**kING TRUCK IN MY FRONT END!

run outside, dude was pulling a youi, saw some big angry arab guy run out of a kebab shop and pretty much got outa there as fast as he could.

got his plates, made a police report that day and then filed a claim.

panel shop said the following needs replacing, Bonnet, grille, bumper + nostrils, driver side indicator and head light and some other little bits and pieces.

damage isnt that bad in pictures but here they are anyway

563505_10200538244601565_424020135_n.jpg563400_10200539172384759_125290506_n.jpg

lucky i am insured.

so front end respray is pretty much done, so just have to fork out to do the rear end at the same time, guards will also receive a light skimming as well as cutting the inner guards for more clearance

future plans.

at the moment im saving money to have my motor built.

gonna use the same builder as tony.

forged bottom end

rods, pistons, machined crank and block

light head work and bigger springs

N1 pumps

gonna ditch the group as and probably go something bigger.

ill be having a chat on saturday with him to work it all out.

as for wheels, well, a friend and i have found some cheap TE37Vs so. 17X9.5+20 fronts, 17X10.5+17 Rears ;)

i dunno man, been having a bad run.

damaged my septum on monday, lower part of my nose. almost broke it and smashed the front row of my teeth out...

  • 2 weeks later...

quick update.
havent really done much with the car, have to pay for other shit.
waiting on insurance to come through to fix it.
am looking into the legalities of a chassis notch.
because. wait.

  • 3 weeks later...

to clear drive shafts.
had a good look into it with the wheels and sussy out. and yeah nah.
get pulled over, get raped with no lube.

rwd it is

smallish update
moneys been a bitch, problems errrwhere but the car
but i did have time to do this
1648_10200804350214039_1531310632_n.jpg

then off to bridgestone to dial in my new lows :)

then this happened.
578349_165076940314785_2020699525_n.jpg
i know its strapped wrong, but i live life on the edge.

so the car loaded up
for this
tumblr_m8be77qgdD1ruzxt1o1_500.gif

221771_10200847203725350_1283987676_n.jp

then back home and now at the panel shop fixing shit.

car got assessed.
panel beater wont tell me whats going on. just to wait and see....
not sure if going to respray entire car at extra cost. or f**king with me

Haha nah, hes a friend of mine.

Msgd him how the assesing went.

He replied "I just f**ked him in the ass"

Lmao

Picking up some very good condition interior parts on thursday which is a big win.

Full boot trim, all 4 door trims for $150!

Full boot trim, all 4 door trims for $150!

get farked!!!

I can not find any over this way, am thinking of remaking mine. I have a plastic fabricator next to my new shed that i'm gona hit up.

  • 2 weeks later...

yep haha, has holes for tweeters which i was going to do anyways
not many updates on the car.
its at the panel beaters, scored some panels for it cheap which will help alot.
shannons seem to have f**ked up the automatic redrawing so apparently i owe them about $400....
payments wont go through unless i call them and have them physically pull the cash out which is annoying.
anyways
thinking about mixing it up a bit
was going to sell the BBS but ill keep them and relip them to make them wider since the rear guards are going to be chopped out from the inside.
also tossing up between this extension on the GTR wing
DSC_1773.jpg
and

this
19088_559523837408394_1374816827_n.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...