Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So in trying to track down my intermittent idle issue on my R33 gtst, I noticed that the exhaust manifold ground lead looks pretty old and frayed. I know 2 things about wiring, one that a good ground is important and the other is I know pretty much nothing else about wiring...so was going to run some ground leads from the block to chassis...could someone point me in the right direction of the best sort of wire to use, and best points to do it from? Like I said don't know alot about it, so any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/406535-earthing-for-rb25/
Share on other sites

When I took the manifold off i noticed how charred it was @ turbo end. Pulled it straight to measure for a replacement, it was dust. Fell to bits. I replaced it with another earth strap. Used a copper lug and is fine with the heat. Put a multi from heat shield to chassis point and check resistance to see if it needs replacing.

If I understand correctly the earth strap is to prevent electrolysis, I doubt it would help your idle.

Edited by GoHard

I would check your coil packs also. If your talking about the wire from the heat shield to the body then that is to stop static electricity that might come off from around the turbo from it spinning.

My car came with an aftermarket earthing kit which has about 8 leads going to various places on the block and the cas bolts etc. There are a few around so I guess there is a market for them but didn't do a before and after so don't know how really usefull they are. But definitely replace any obviously dodgy connections.

  • 2 years later...
  • 9 years later...

I noticed my earth wire was disconnected when I attempted to do some work, but the wire was yanked off with the bolt still attached to the exhaust manifold heat shield. I used an aluminium connector to replace it from super cheap like this, will it melt? I was worried as the old one is steel. 

https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/sca-sca-electrical-terminals---ring-eye-5.0mm-red-25-pack/120047.html?cgid=SCA01060604#start=48

 

I removed the rubber of course as that's going to melt.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Brooooo Please send ABS control unit schematic Please! R33 gts25t ABS (Its two plug ecu, black and white) wire colors possible? [email protected]
    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
×
×
  • Create New...