Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G'day guys, so I went and seen a guy he said my problem was that off of the stock bov because I didn't have the piping that went to where ever it goes was missing that's what was making it run rich, is this correct, I can't see how it would make any difference.

Cheers.

  • Replies 76
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Its very possible.

In short. Afm measures air coming in so ecu knows how much fuel to add.

But when bov releases air the ecu doesnt know this and still throws all the fuel in so it creates a rich condition therefor uses excess fuel

  • 2 weeks later...

If the stock bob was venting to the atmosphere, and was done so be simply removing the plumback pipe, then yes that will make it run rich as the stock bov has a hole that permanently lets it bleed air off. Might be worth taking the bov of and checking to see if the hole was blocked.

G'day guys new here, have a question for you guys, a lot of the skizza drivers where I live are to snobby to talk to me, so the problem is I only get 277km to a tank on 98, I've replaced the fuel reg, oxy sensor, cleaned the AAC vavle, blew the lines, what els could be contributing to this?

Cheers, Aus.

LOL you're blessed! I get only 180km per tank :/

Wow, I get 500km per 50l, I baby the car though, just got front mount and exhaust, but yeah you guys must be really getting smashed with these petrol prices. I get roughly the same km on the worst or best fuel economy wise.

That's what i'm after! Even if i baby the car (which is hard) i'd get 420 maybe? I've had the 33 for 5ish months now, i have new genuine coil packs, new sparks and oil. Yet to do fuel filter, other oils, and o2 sensor. Hope it improves after that.

That's what i'm after! Even if i baby the car (which is hard) i'd get 420 maybe? I've had the 33 for 5ish months now, i have new genuine coil packs, new sparks and oil. Yet to do fuel filter, other oils, and o2 sensor. Hope it improves after that.

You are probably losing a large percentage of your economy by those little squirts that you don;t really need to do, when I say I'm babying it, I mean I shift at 2200 rpm, 30% throttle so neg boost, roll down hills, lights and roundabouts, I know it's not really practical for most people to drive like that but yeah, just trying to get 2 weeks out of a tank, to and from work, 6 days a week, HEAPS better economy than the elgrand I had, but driving pretty much as slow haha.

I would suggest to do a 100k service and check all your piping.

I used to be lucky if i can get 300km out of my 34gtt while babying it.

Replaced the sparkies, coil pack, belts, oil, o2 sensor, waterpump etc etc....reset the computer and now with babying i can get over 500 a tank (my maths being i was babying it till the half way mark and i did 275kms - not the most accurate but will do hehe)

G'day guys, so I went and seen a guy he said my problem was that off of the stock bov because I didn't have the piping that went to where ever it goes was missing that's what was making it run rich, is this correct, I can't see how it would make any difference.

Cheers.

Makes all the difference in the world as the stock BOV constantly bleeds air, so your car's ECU is constantly accounting for air that's not even being ingested by the motor. This will lead to it running rich off boost etc..

Also is the return line blocked off at least?

Milan: I don't see why a 100k service would help much? The previous owner has had my timing belt changed with receipts, by UltraTune though, cost the owner $490 back in Oct 2010.

The car has no leaks (rocker cover was leaking now great). I have noticed that after changing my coil packs and spark plugs the car runs a lot smoother e.g. 3rd gear doing 70km/h at 3000ish rpm, i thought i was in 5th because engine noise was so low and smooth, before it used to scream just a little louder. I got 450ks to the tank this week but i had an extra 8L added 2 days ago(helped for 80kms i think), when i filled up today i put in 58L! Gonna check how far this goes, will try to drive normally... :rolleyes: .

John: So i should get my stock bov piping checked?

hi, i was getting under 300kms per tank as well, i now get just over 500 around town, the only things i did was put a new coolant temp sensor in (same as n15 pulsar) and i put dielectric grease on the top of spark plugs and coilpack springs (clean the bottom of the spring with some 400 grit sandpaper first). Hope this helps!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...