Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The T62R weighs nothing compared to a similar turbo from garret. That's why HKS charged the arse out of them when they went of sale. Its 8kgs lighter than the T88-38GK we were originally gonna run.

That is weight, not size. Always thought (still can't see any reason not to think really) that buying a GT4508R with a TiAL SS VBand turbine housing would be basically the same thing?! Changing that housing from the filthy big industrial thing that comes from Garrett is meant to reduce the overall turbo weight by about 33pc apparently.

T88 is a totally different turbo from a totally different manufacturer, glad you didn't go there!

Yeah i'm really glad we never ran with the T88-38GK, the T62R is an awesome turbo still have not found the limit on it yet so looking forward to when it finally peaks out at.

I read that the Tial SS housing were considerably lighter as well, i was going to run there rear housing on my SR20 when i decide what turbo I am running, my exhaust manifold has the 3 Tial V-Band on it. Those big monster Garrets require a massive beefy manifolds to support them other wise the start cracking the old stainless one e.g Trust manifold I am currently running.

  • 3 weeks later...

Got a video text of its run last night

Thing sounded and looked insane

Haha yer your welcome mani lol, but yer saw these runs at willowbank things an animal set off car alarms as it hit the two step in the car park lol

  • 4 months later...

Time for a new member.

-Twin 6258 EFR's

-Tomei 2.8lt Stroker kit with Custom 87mm JE pistons

-Advan Performance Ported Race Head

-Jun 264 x 10.5m Cams

-Full Tomei Valvetrain

-Hypertune Plenum 6 x ITB

-Plazmaman 100mm Intercooler

-Full Race Manifolds

-ID2000cc Injectors

-Motec M600 ECU

-M & W CDI Ignition with Weapon X CDI Coils

-3 x Bosch 044 fuel pumps

-Peterson 4 stage Dry Sump Setup

-4 Inch Exhaust

-OS Giken Triple Plate Clutch

-Holinger 6spd Sequential with Ignition Cut

-Tuned by Phil Armour Motorsport

post-53650-0-66074300-1368871736_thumb.jpg

  • Like 2

You're not taking into consideration the weight of the 6-pot caliper/355mm rotor fronts & 4-pot caliper/320mm rotor rears! ;)

R32 GTRs are A LOT lighter than R34 GTRs... We are unable to run smaller than 20" rims on NITTO due to the massive brakes. We cannot put 20" semis on it either as they simply won't clear the rear guards (not keen on damaging the House of Kolor paint!)

Ive got 380mm alcons sitting behind 18" ame tm02s?

  • 2 weeks later...

Ive got 380mm alcons sitting behind 18" ame tm02s?

And i just found out my 375 x 36mm alcon rotors on le mans daytona prototype monoblock billet alcon 6pots sit behind 17" TE37's.

355s with 20" rims, you should be able to fit a small child between the caliper and rim.

And i just found out my 375 x 36mm alcon rotors on le mans daytona prototype monoblock billet alcon 6pots sit behind 17" TE37's.

355s with 20" rims, you should be able to fit a small child between the caliper and rim.

its another excuse to why it didnt perform after all the hype that they put on it

  • 2 weeks later...

With all the massive power being made, I think it's time for a 500+kw(wheels) to see what has been tried and tested, and to compare combinations, similar to the 400kw thread.

List as much of your mods as you wish as the more info the better: engine, turbo,cams, boost etc etc

I will start:

RB26 stock block

Apexi SPL V-Max 73.7mm billet crank

Apexi SPL V-Max rods

HKS Step 3 87mm with 22mm pins

Apexi SPL V-Max 290 11.5mm cams

Apexi SPL V-Max Springs, retainers & lifters

Supertech +1mm valves

9.0:1 CR

HKS twin GT3240 + twin gates turbo kit

Trust sump (modified)

External single stage Moroso oil pump (wet)

Apexi SPL V-Max Drag intercooler (150mm)

3" dumps > single 85mm exhaust

Microtech LT12S

3 x 044's + large surge tank

6 x Bosch Indy Blues

Caltex E85

520rwkw on 22psi on a very safe tune, no cam timing, and low rev limit.

Plenty more in it with more tuning, boost, revs and cam timing, but this will do for now.

any more updates on this setup

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
    • The video for the servicing and fuel filter change can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44 One of the main jobs I wanted to do before the car officially went on the road, was to remove the awful looking blue silicone hoses. There's nothing wrong with having coloured silicone hoses, but I realise as I'm getting older I prefer monotone engine bays with a splash of colour on the engine cover(s). I cover this in a lot more detail in the Youtube video, so unfortunately there's limited photos of the process. The intercooler, upper radiator, boost vacuum and upper breather hoses were all changed to black silicone with mikalor clamps. The only blue left is a blanking cap at the back of the inlet manifold and the GReddy pulleys (which will be replaced for stock when the cambelt gets replaced) While the intercooler pipes were off I gave them a quick clean/polish too A before photo I do have a replacement air filter on its way. Fuse box covers were painted blue, they're now satin black Another job on the list while the bumper was off, is to add some mesh https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737966256_99b28bfa30_c.jpg[/img] I was hoping to use some thin wire to secure it, but it seems I've misplaced it and the wire I had was too thick to twist easily. I ended up using cable ties for the time being https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737131882_c2b7989dcc_c.jpg[/img] Was pleasant to see this https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737131627_8b2aab13b3_c.jpg[/img] The last thing to do was to fix the front grill and re-mesh that to match but I ran out of time The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R4FsF6tgizE&t=23s
×
×
  • Create New...