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Boost leak, AFMs playing up. Check that the ECU is standard, it might have a "chip" in it or something.

When the AFMs started crapping out on my car, fuel went from 12 to 15 to 20L+.

I went for a cruise today, car did ~12L/100km (rough guess), still surging below 7psi up hills (AFMs most likely).

Two things:

Never borrow money to purchase an "asset" that depreciates, eg a car. It s a mugs game.

incorrect, well partly. way to much of a generalisation to be correct.

what about a credit file,

what about having cash savings to offset the interest in a apreciating balance offset account instead of spending funds on an asset which is unlikley to be kept untill loan maturity?

ever done the calculations on funds in the back vs funds on a loan with the differing interest rates?

what about using the loan as a forced savings or keeping any savable cash for appreciating asset pourposes like land/ property,

why sink all your savings into a depreciating asset .

why save for another 5 years to buy an even older car instead of actually owning the car you want

its when you get in over your head and borrow over your means that people get into dramas,

i always financed my cars, the cash i have is now in my 3rd mortgage, im 27

Edited by GH05T
  • 2 weeks later...

Hi all,

I'm looking at purchasing an r32 gtr in the next year or so.

I want to know how reliable the engine and gearbox are in general.

When I do buy, it will be something decent that has been rebuilt. Just a weekend car.

Also I'm not talking standard rebuilt but rather something that has enough power to run a 10sec 1/4 mile.

Thanks.

Yeah i found out the hard way what happens when you use a GTR as daily. My Fuel bills soared to $400+ a month and i actually fell out of love driving the car and just wanted to sell it to find something more fuel economic but a 2007 Subaru liberty is no R32 GTR :) I now drive a 97 toyota camry, gf drives the subaru and I couldn't be happier about fuel economy, reliability and parking these cars at shopping centers. I'm currently on the look out for another R32 GTR as a weekend toy but i tell you what its hard to find one now in good condition.( I knew this because well lets face it they are 19-24 years old now. )

Ive inspected and test driven 10 of them now and this is what ive noticed:

- majority of them need a bit of money spent on them now and most people are trying to get rid of them before big $$$$$$ bills start looming.

- vehicle history checks indicate plenty of owners for imported skylines and unreported accident damage.

- 1 car i looked at was registered as a mitsubishi magna and another had rego cancelled for traffic infringements and money owing.

- average klms 60,000-150,000 (yeah right )

- almost all of them dont blow cold air when A/C is turned on. 2 out of 10 A/C worked correctly and even then 1 made funny noises when A/C switched on.

- almost all of them have at least 5 faults or more

- almost all of them bubble in the centre of the dash and interior rear quarter cards crack and bubble.

- the majority have high clutch pedals and brakes that shudder under hard braking and tend to have various little electrical gremlins ( warning lights, wiper, power window etc).

- Ive found 2 out of 10 with working clocks and 1 out of 10 with a genuine factory CD player and standard air box.

- among leaking fluid's the most common areas tend to be around bell housing, transfer case/gearbox, valve cover and brake master cylinders and clutch slave cylinders.

- 1 car had rubber coated under all the guards, another 2 had semi slicks with warning triangles (never a good sign unless its been well looked after), 4 had rear end accident damage poorly patched and 1 car supposedly had a "button clutch" at a certain dealership on parramatta road with 60,000 klms. um yeah no clutch left more like it lol

- and funniest test drive (well didnt even leave the dealership) car was started and a certain knock knock knock was heard from bottom end the moment key was turned. I race a CA18DET 1200 coupe and i know that sound...... salesman said he'd change the oil for me and i looked at my mechanic and he said lets go for a walk, we did not return funnily enough.

This time round I'm a lot more informed purchasing this kind of car and no modifications that are "untasteful". All this still hasn't deterred me from buying one as they are my favorite GTR simply because of the plentiful and epic motorsport history behind them. Theres my rant and a bit of FYI ;)

Also the majority of R32 R's in sydney are jet silver, brisbane seems to favor burgundy maroon, Melbourne GTR's love the pod filter's and the colour black and apparently white was a really common colour for them but ive seen only 1 in the flesh and i think ive seen 1 navy blue on gumtree. DA FUQ with that? Interesting trends and observations though

To add to the above comments.

IMHO R32 GTR's that have not had the engine rebuilt. 9.5 / 10 are a bee's dick away from needing one.

So when people advertise $15k or more for a R32 GTR with an unopened block then you add $12k to $20k. You will need it.

If the Turbo's are stock....factor that in as well.

Yes I agree with well maintained, non thrashed, vehicles lasting longer. (these are imported GTR's - most with dodgy at best history's)

They have an Achilles' heal that an extra litre of oil wont stop from occurring and doing a big end bearing.

How many times does some one buy a 32GTR and then show up on this site with a bad experience or a FS add.

Edited by Sinista32

What are the weak points in the engine, gearbox, transfer and diffs?

How much power can the stock gearbox and diff handle?

Surely with a built engine and new turbo / turbos it should last a while even if it would have 350-400 RWKW, or are they that unreliable?

As mentioned earlier I only want it for a weekend car.

I have no problem spending money for upgrades, but I don't want to be continually fixing broken components.

What are the weak points in the engine, gearbox, transfer and diffs?

How much power can the stock gearbox and diff handle?

Surely with a built engine and new turbo / turbos it should last a while even if it would have 350-400 RWKW, or are they that unreliable?

As mentioned earlier I only want it for a weekend car.

I have no problem spending money for upgrades, but I don't want to be continually fixing broken components.

Engine - stock turbos can go and sometimes destroy the motor when they do. Motor can starve oil at the track (but overfilling one litre stops that), There's a bad oil pump drive on early RB26s, but if the balancer is ok and you don't bounce of the limiter, its typically ok, and its easily fixed during a rebuild.

Gearbox, diff and transfer case are all pretty good. Fill all with full synthetics of the right fluids and forget. Some people strip third gear once you get somewhere past 360awkw. AFAIK the diffs and transfer case are good to 400.

I used my 33 GTR for a daily for around 3 years, single turbo converted, twin plate, coil overs, roll cage (rear half cage) BRIDE fixed backs and external fuel system etc. Completely stock engine internally with a GT3582R initially then a Precision 6262 and it went well considering its modifications. The only thing I got sick of were the seats lol.

In saying that it got service religiously with Royal Purple fluids through everything.

Stock standard theres actually a bit of lag however once I threw on some front pipes and a cat back exhaust with a Power FC ecu it was a lot better and then went to the single turbo and I was sold. Everyone was saying oh shit its going to be a lag monster blah blah blah and I disagree completely.

The all wheel drive is a hoot to drive. When we installed the the twin plate clutch we carefully bled the ATTESSA system so it wasn't rear wheel drive heavy and it was great fun through corners, get slight over steer but you just point the wheel where you need to go and keep the foot buried for maximum giggles.

I thoroughly enjoyed my old GTSt with rear wheel drive however when I pushed the GTR through its paces a little after a few days I instantly knew I made the right choice.

As stated many times though, make sure you've got a healthy bank account

Hi guys,

Just thought I'd throw my 2c in here.

I drive my tarmac rally prepped R32 GTR everyday and enjoy it.

Stripped interior, no sound deadening, fixed back seats, 6pt harnesses, no AC, no stereo, big 6+4 pot brakes (that squeal when cold), 2way diff, 1400kg clutch pressure plate with ceramic buttons, 340kw with cams, TEIN Super Streets etc etc

The fuel bill isn't too bad (Haltech Platinum Pro) after the cams went in (uses less fuel under 4500rpm, obviously uses more above)

Sure it sucks more juice than a civic, but a civic isn't a GTR. Horses for courses.

Mark :)

PS: Keep in mind my old track spec Mazda RX3 rotary which I drive to work at least once a week. It idled at 2500rpm with a 10500 limiter, was over 100db, threw flames out the exhaust, had firm suspension, semi slicks, big squealy brakes when cold, 4 button ceramic clutch and a very tight LSD. Maybe I just enjoy driving 'generally uncomfortable' cars?! *shrugs*

Just my (limited) 2c

If you want an R32 GTR nowadays - a good one - be prepared for upwards of $30K.

I'd recommend importing from a reputable importer (see separate thread for trusted names)

I got my dream car with none of the problem listed above - but you pay for what you get.

It's easily and pleasantly usable as a daily driver - but usually its a once a weeker (it hurts to add to its 18,000 kms ;-)

With a bit of TLC, garaging and a good workshop - there is no reason they can't last forever.

Cheers

The Baron

  • Like 1

What are the weak points in the engine, gearbox, transfer and diffs?

How much power can the stock gearbox and diff handle?

Surely with a built engine and new turbo / turbos it should last a while even if it would have 350-400 RWKW, or are they that unreliable?

As mentioned earlier I only want it for a weekend car.

I have no problem spending money for upgrades, but I don't want to be continually fixing broken components.

Depends on who builds the engine and how they go about doing it...

But if done correctly and the mechanic know's what they are doing, then yes, they can handle 350 - 400 RWKW.

RB26's are very reliable, even in stock form.

You treat the engine right, it will take you a long way.

  • Like 1

Does a GTR with approximately 400rwkw have any traction issues on the street?

I am in no way supporting street racing by this question.

Reason I ask is that I have always had rear wheel drive v8's and traction has always been an issue with a manual.

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