Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I've tried searching but couldnt really find much.

Currently making 347 rwkw

hks2540's i think - full boost of 22psi at around 5500 ish

powerfc

tomei adj gears

bosch 044

ported manifolds

hks dumps

hi-flow cat

z32 afms

sard 800's

Running standard internals

NOW to my question... How can i increase turbo response? Cams? What cams would be suitable Im hoping something along the lines of drop in i.e. keeping everything else stock.

I want a reliable driver also - and im 100% sure this car wont see a track day or drag strip plus i have shift light set at 7000rpms.

Lag is starting to annoy me and i really don't know what to do.. i cant afford to take out the turbos and buy and sell -9's or -5's.. What can i do to make the lag a little bit better/bearable?

Please don't flame, I'm asking a genuine question.

Thanks all

Edited by kinggtr

If you don't want to change your turbos then its just a matter of tuning to get as near as possible to the result you want. I would guess cams should stay stock but timing would need adjusting via the two adjustable gears (that's what they're for!)

Seems like you are in the same town as Status tuning so give them a ring and make an apointment - be prepared to spend around $1000 more or less for a decent tune.

I know you said you don't really want to change turbo's, but those 2540's are probably the worst lowmount setup on a GTR for any type of "'response". Cam timing and tunes are only gonna help so much.

A set of type R Poncams if you must buy a set of bumpsticks would be the go.

And make sure your exhaust doesn't have "step downs" that'll cause unnecessary back pressure

Turbos that size and an engine only revving to 7000rpm would be a dog to drive...

As already mentioned, well aware that you said a turbo change is not what you are wanting to look at doing - but at the end of the day the cams aren't going to be a budget mod and are really going to make so little difference you're going to wonder why you bothered imho, and will eventually have to do something drastic to polish the turd that is GT2540s (if you don't just replace them).

Honestly the most logical thing to do is change the turbos, as funnily enough anything else you do is not going to change that they are GT2540s and as such are going to behave like them.

Can I ask if you can't afford to spend the time removing the turbos or is it just a matter of money?

If it's just money i'm sure you can make a decent bit of cash back selling those and buying second hand -9s/-5s.

But yeah otherwise, who tuned the car and got a dyno graph of it currently? And have the adjustable cams been used to lower the power range?

Edit: What front pipes and cat back are you running?

Edited by Serpandrew

I'm not an RB26/GTR person but I'd look at it like this .

HKS effectively replaced the old "GT2540s" , which in todays speak are actually GT2876Rs , with turbos called GTRSs which are a GT2871R in 52 compressor trim .

People here say that it takes a specific combination of parts and good tuning to make GTRSs work on an RB26 and they actually use smaller but more modern compressor wheels than the old 2540s .

You could try all kinds of ways to work around those turbos but at the end of the day they are not a well though out turbocharger and you can do better .

Simply too big a compressor for the turbines to drive and thats what makes them lazy .

I think the designed for the purpose GT2859R (GTSS) are the go because they make boost and torque in the rev/speed range you can use in a street GTR .

Pretty sure you'd still make 300+ Kw but you'd drag the power range down possibly 1000 revs if not more .

So your call , either GTSS or inaptly called GT2530s I think .

A .

-9's are SS' s

-5' are close enough to 2530's.

Spend the money and rip those turbos off mate. You're about to drop a bomb of money and really, you're not gonna get the result you're after.

what are your cam gears dialled in as?

You could "possibly" get them to spool a tad earlier if you advanced the intake cams and retarded the exhaust cams a tad. A few people have gotten their GTS-ts to spool a tad earlier by retarding the exhaust cam gear only.

Hey guys

Firstly thanks for all your input on this matter - ill upload the tune soon.

Not to sure what's been improved from the cam gears other then an obvious lift on all parts on the graph.

I swapped out the gfb manual Bc and swapped it over for an eboost street and don't a few adjust I'm getting a rushing boost feeling from 3000 rpms and full boost at 4800 5000

Could they be 2530s? I also noticed an intercooler pipe leaking which I sorted out.

Lastly I spoke to my tuner and he explained how opts for a smooth graph and smooth power delivery. Maybe im just used to the standard response of the ceramic turbs?

Peak torque is 3/4 up the powerband, no wonder your not happy..

Im really with the others and will say spend wisely and just get real turbos. To match the peak you will need -5s. Check serial numbers before you do anything, obviously..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...