Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Currently searching for a white vspec II and saw this one pop up this morning on carsales. Judging by location the photos were taken, appears to be from Sports Auto Group (Although shop logo has been blurred?). I'm only suspecting, previous front end hit? Bonnet does not appear to line up and painted radiator support? Curious if anyone is able to provide any insight? Thanks. 137891978.jpg137891935.jpg137891979.jpg

Hahahhahaa the panel gap professor (aka me) does not approve of those photos.

....inb4 I become an import dealer to cash in on the profits to be made from this type of exercise

From an observation of pictures, who else noticed that bolts for the driver front quarter panel have been repainted (usually the paint will fracture once you twist these bolts to take them off) ;)

Also, the passenger front quarter appears completely repainted. I noticed this from the engine bay pic.

Here's another interesting one (sold at sports auto group)

http://www.sportsautogroup.com.au/nissan/skyline/r34-gtr-vspec-3156

bkP7jFC.png

Note the KM's - 41,000

And now it's appeared for sale in Victoria, with only 29,600k on the "original 180kph speedo"

42BXydd.png

Funny that they've specifically mentioned it having the stock cluster given that most cars will still have the stock clusters, you wouldn't think they'd have any reason to say anything unless they've swapped it out.

Can't believe they get away with this stuff.

Original sale from Japan link below?????. Doesn't mention KM's though :-(

http://www.fcautosource.com/SoldListingDetail.aspx?fcauto_id=209&makemodel=1999_NISSAN_SKYLINE_GT-R

Edited by djvoodoo

Can't believe they get away with this stuff.

Original sale from Japan link below?????. Doesn't mention KM's though :-(

http://www.fcautosource.com/SoldListingDetail.aspx?fcauto_id=209&makemodel=1999_NISSAN_SKYLINE_GT-R

haha, and it has a Nismo 300km/h speedo with white face gauges there

209-DSC_0050.JPG

And a recaro drivers seat

209-DSC_0049.JPG

Saw this on Car Sales, Not a r34 but from a dealer in Sydney. What do you guys think

http://www.carsales.com.au/dealer/details/nissan-skyline-1996-14814567

Wrong dash and steering wheel

That car is legit, it's probably just been complied as a 1996 model but it is a 1995 build car. The other erroneous detail is that it isn't a Vspec as listed.

6o07pv.jpg

K's probably aren't genuine though, all that flaking paint & no floor mats, rear muffler looks like it's been painted? say it's probably had a pretty hard life at least.

That car is legit, it's probably just been complied as a 1996 model but it is a 1995 build car. The other erroneous detail is that it isn't a Vspec as listed.

6o07pv.jpg

K's probably aren't genuine though, all that flaking paint & no floor mats, rear muffler looks like it's been painted? say it's probably had a pretty hard life at least.

Well there you go, I just saw it was 1996 but no passenger airbag and wrong steering wheel. I thought SCAAMM, But yeah surely K's aren't genuine engine bay looks very average. And 20k probably wouldn't get you anything to genuine with 69,000k's

Edited by dyl33

Hahahhahaa the panel gap professor (aka me) does not approve of those photos.

....inb4 I become an import dealer to cash in on the profits to be made from this type of exercise

From an observation of pictures, who else noticed that bolts for the driver front quarter panel have been repainted (usually the paint will fracture once you twist these bolts to take them off) ;)

Also, the passenger front quarter appears completely repainted. I noticed this from the engine bay pic.

I am a noob at spotting all this - can you please shed some more light as to what the original condition/colour of the bolts are meant to be? What do you look at when a panel as been repainted (especially from photos)? Also regarding panel replacements and engine bay welds - any other key areas to look out for?

On a separate note, a good friend of mine is after an Airtek and is waiting for them to be available. He previously had a GT-A which he bought from the infamous All Imports. After I told him about this thread and the related horror stories, he took my advice and will contact Chef. :)

The bolts(At least on the rad support panel) Are meant to be zinc coated not painted. You'd look at things like that, how shiny the paint is in relation to surrounding areas, overspray. Panel gaps should be uniform and welds in the engine bay should all be spot welds. Also look out for anything that has been painted black or hit heavily with non standard sound deadening coating undercoat. I'm sure there's more but these are the types of thing I generally look out for.

Raj,

good man for referring a mate to the chef, you did a good thing!

On another note, not directly related - but i used to sell used cars 4x4's in particular and on rwc/detail the detailers used to spray the entire chassis black.. it was just to "pretty" them up, but to a smart person that's hiding potential rust/sand/salt or whatever. I was so against it and it made me feel awkward when i'd have customers ask me about why it's been painted..

Currently searching for a white vspec II and saw this one pop up this morning on carsales. Judging by location the photos were taken, appears to be from Sports Auto Group (Although shop logo has been blurred?). I'm only suspecting, previous front end hit? Bonnet does not appear to line up and painted radiator support? Curious if anyone is able to provide any insight? Thanks. 137891978.jpg137891935.jpg137891979.jpg

Hi mate... I went to Sydney last weekend to take a look at this car... its terrible.

Its had a front end hit, underneath the driver side front fender I noticed re welds, showing me it wasn't just a love tap. The steering wheel wear does not match up with the km on the dash, I expect the car has done over 150,000 km. The bonnet has cracks all over it and has been re painted. The strut tower on driver side has also been re sprayed.

Mate I would not even consider this car. I would say probably the worst car I have inspected.

Cheers mate.

Has anyone seen the Bayside Blue car they've got on carsales, with an S-Tune engine and LMGT's.

I know SAG are a 'steer clear' business but an S-tune engine has to be worth a quick squizz no?

They've also got Ferrari's and a few lamborghinis there, I wonder if they get the same treatment as their Nissans

Hi mate... I went to Sydney last weekend to take a look at this car... its terrible.

Its had a front end hit, underneath the driver side front fender I noticed re welds, showing me it wasn't just a love tap. The steering wheel wear does not match up with the km on the dash, I expect the car has done over 150,000 km. The bonnet has cracks all over it and has been re painted. The strut tower on driver side has also been re sprayed.

Mate I would not even consider this car. I would say probably the worst car I have inspected.

Cheers mate.

Now I'm curious - I thought cars that require repairs such as this were illegal to be registered on the streets (maybe Chef can clarify?). Though I bet they'll come up with some BS story that it got damaged during transport or something in Australia.

Any chance of obtaining the VIN and possible searches via auction papers on it's grade? I'm sure the ACCC and other entities would be interested in this.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...