Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So as this VIN does indeed match the auction sheet the "fact" is therefore this car "cannot" be registered (being an R - Grade car)?

As long as the buyer is aware of what they are purchasing then they are able to pick up a nice car ...

I believe it can be complied and registered so long as the repairs have been done professionally and there is no sign of structural damage.

I'm not to sure, but I believe its up to the compliance workshops to determine whether there actually is no sign of structural damage. And as I said, some dealers own their own compliance workshops. I remember there was a column about it in an issue of High Performance Imports.

http://www.edwardlees.com.au/stock/1988-nissan-skyline-gts-autech-version-3229.htm

Haha what, description just completely goes off into GTS-R details which Autech is not and even then doesn't have all of its info right.

The evidence presented in this thread alone is quite damning. This thread is proof of the power of the internet and must remain at the top to warn others of the dangers of buying such vehicles.

I'm not surprised though as such shady business practices have been happening for a verrrry long time. And not just in the automotive industry.

I had always thought that you couldn't register R-grade cars, and they were only to be imported as track-only cars; perhaps one of the importers on here can clarify the legality or not of this. What I am sure of is that a 90,000km odometer windback/swap is not legal unless the RTA has been advised that an odometer has ben replaced. Eiother way, there must be a resord of the swap on that vehicle.

The internet is a glorious place.
I will continue to post up as much information as I find until Mods tell me to stop.
It's the right of the consumer to know the truth about dodgy cars being bought into the country.



I remember there was a column about it in an issue of High Performance Imports.

There was - I'm glad someone read it!

In typically ambiguous Japanese fashion, R can mean anything from a panel being taken off to repair a pin dent to the whole front end of the car being wiped off the map by a bullet train. It's a fairly simple process - the inspectors check the bolts holding the panels on (at the front end) to see if the paint is cracked (indicating they've been removed) or the welds on the rear to see if they're factory welds or paint shop ones.

As a general rule, a 0 or R grade car shouldn't be an issue for compliance if it only has a single panel replaced. If there are two adjoining panels replaced (like the bonnet and one of the front guards) chances are the structure of the vehicle has been repaired, and this should be a no-no for compliance. With 0 or R grade cars, inspection in the metal is a no-brainer before purchasing.

  • Like 1

There was - I'm glad someone read it!

In typically ambiguous Japanese fashion, R can mean anything from a panel being taken off to repair a pin dent to the whole front end of the car being wiped off the map by a bullet train. It's a fairly simple process - the inspectors check the bolts holding the panels on (at the front end) to see if the paint is cracked (indicating they've been removed) or the welds on the rear to see if they're factory welds or paint shop ones.

As a general rule, a 0 or R grade car shouldn't be an issue for compliance if it only has a single panel replaced. If there are two adjoining panels replaced (like the bonnet and one of the front guards) chances are the structure of the vehicle has been repaired, and this should be a no-no for compliance. With 0 or R grade cars, inspection in the metal is a no-brainer before purchasing.

Thanks for posting that up Kristian, that actually clears up a lot of things said and thought.

I guess then it really comes down to the inspection and the full detail of the damage or what was indeed replaced/repaired.

Good decision.

Try Iron Chef Imports. Gets a good rap on here or be patient and wait for a good one to come up via a private seller.

That's what I'd do if I had to do it again.

I've been looking into J-Spec as well but I just can't imagine spending that much money on a used car that I've never looked at or never driven.

The internet is a glorious place.

I will continue to post up as much information as I find until Mods tell me to stop.

It's the right of the consumer to know the truth about dodgy cars being bought into the country.

SAU's position is pretty clear on this one:

Posting the Japanese Auction sheets, if they can be clearly/undeniably linked to cars for sale here in AUS and clearly demonstrate the things I have in my first post surrounding false claims, altered ODO's and similar.

You'll have our blessing to do so as long as it's factual and not attacking/slander, that's the key.

I get quite a number of people across the industry PM'ing me about various things like this, i'll gladly continue to post them up and be the "voice" so to speak as people and businesses need to know that this type of shit is simply unacceptable.

Power to the Internet!

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...

I was in Sydney on the weekend and hadn't yet read this thread, long story short had a look at couple of private seller cars which I passed on.

While in town had some time to kill so got on trusty old google and found all of these Import dealers along Parramatta road... One even had "Sydney's Most Trusted and Respected Import Car Dealership!" plastered all over their website hahaha.

Sat in the R34 S1 on Sunday and the salesman went on to explain how its not one of the 200 built and that the previous owner had bought the car stock then when to Nismo in japan to have the goods fitted, to be honest looks like a nice car however I doubt very highly the validity of the Km's and the asking price seems ridiculous vs the quality of the car. The Interior was not from a "very well looked after" 47xxxKm car, steering wheel is covered in scratches, seat bolsters weren't worn through but they did seam a little age softened, the front bar lip has a crack in the drivers side plus the usual scrapes, the window and boot seals appear sun damaged, and the paint work seemed to have had a pretty poor cut and polish.

I am on expert by any stretch but after reading this and seeing what I have best to just keep squirrelling away money until the right one comes along, whilst collecting as much advice and knowledge possible along the way.

Edited by mralbino
  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sold listed as a Tomei LSD 1.5 Way For 1998+ Nissan Skyline ER34 25GT RB25DE w/Open R200 https://www.ebay.com/itm/174006114594?campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms=&campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=71883f2ccc571356e0a757bc7adfdde2&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms= it went in like butter all gears, alignment, back lash etc, rotation and clearances correct, and if rolling all rotates smooth and free when coasting down road , clutch in or out over 10 mph smooth... its the binding, clunking and jerking from a stop that is most concerning, also seems like its going to tear the tires off in 10 miles of normal road driving. 
    • What 1.5 way? There's no such thing really as a 1.5 way, just different ways of explaining 2 ways with different ramp rates. HOWEVER. In any driving in a straight line your 1.5 or 2 or 1.7 way should have no clunking at all. With the clutch fully depressed the diff should be silent (unless it's welded but I'm assuming it's not). Something aint right here.
    • Clutch is a spec brand, new clutch system,( PP, flywheel, friction disc, etc. pull type) installed 100 miles ago, with no problems.
    • looking for some help and maybe some insight on others experience with a new LSD. R34 GT ran and drove beautifully, but always alot of grip loss due to the open R200 rear end, so I just installed a new 1.5 LSD way into the stock open R200 for a ER34. Simple. Everything seemed right. I test drove for the first time this weekend. as I started to back out the garage the first time slowly with tires straight it sounded and felt like I had a loose or half disconnected drive shaft...that was clucking around loose and shaking entire vehicle, and making it feel like the trans clutch was spontaneously slipping then grabbing very roughly while just letting out pedal slowly. I backed it out went to pull forward with the same noise, shake and slip grab feeling with hesitation, I turned the tires to back out more and then pulled ahead some same thing but worst because of added wheel resistance (which that I expected) puzzled … pulling it back in checking everything over and finding nothing wrong, I tried it the next day. same thing, couldn’t believe how it shook everything again making a terrible noise and making it feel like the trans clutch was slipping and grabbing, but I got it out of garage into the driveway, got it straight, drove forward and then reveres a few times in a straight line everything shaking , causing what felt like clutch slip and grab every time, sounded like right behind front driver tire and I could feel it in the floor board with my feet,... worst right when beginning to let clutch pedal out to engage slightly, shuttering and sounding terrible along the way…I managed to slowly get down the road, babying it the whole way, once I was rolling (out of 1st) seemed to be better and between shifts, then clutch felt closer to normal…not slip/ grab etc., but back down to any stop, straight road or turning, same thing. Made no difference if all tires were straight or if I was turning. All other gauge read out correct. with in 2 miles as planned I reached the empty parking lot and performed the break in procedure that came with lsd, essentially to drive in a figure 8 a bunch.  Did this, binding chattering, and shaking the car the whole way. I drove it back home seemed somewhat normal once I was in straight line and past 10 mph or so, and I know it will “bind” on corners and cause some tires squeal when turning especially from a stop, but when I begin to move it still causes what feels like the trans clutch to slip and jerk badly as well as shaking the entire car, and sounds terrible, that I didn’t expect. I used the fluid they supplied with LSD kit and did the breaking, planning to change fluid as they suggest after breaking, but wondering will it get smoother or less aggressive with use? maybe a 1.5 is just too aggressive for normal road driving?   I have a LSD that I put in my 71 cuda when I restored it, with amazing smooth , quite yet effective results. Different style LSD but that ones a joy to drive. maybe expecting too much from this R200?
    • Join SAU NSW for a flame-grilled feed & flame-spitting cruise! Sunday 17th August 2025 3:30PM Meeting Archies Flame Grille Sylvania Waters 4:45PM Cruise Departure 5:15PM Arrival at Cape Solander Kurnell Meet Location: Archies Flame Grille Final Destination: Cape Solander Kurnell *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
×
×
  • Create New...