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Gtr Joey's R32 Gtr E-Flex, Twinscroll 83/75 Results


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Disregard lol

Yes it should be quite responsive Dale, i was considering upgrading to the bigger rear housing but to be honest im over spending money and i just want to drive the thing.. I think the result is going to blow the 2.6 set up out of the water

perfomance should be increased by

2.9 stroker

compression bumped to 9.1 from stock

More responsive cams

Port work with standard sized valves to maintain airspeed

Much better valve springs (ferrea Dual valve springs) old ones were slinkys

Ceramic coated entire exhaust side

Engine is ready for pick up, just waiting on exhaust pick up

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haha i could have the engine in by next week... but then it could be at the mod shop for up to a month (large variable) haha

it needs a couple of small repairs done and a run in Tune. The run in tune wont take Yavuz long... Go and drive it for a day straight (Nato runs) , bring it back in for full tune hahah

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Meh what rubbish, throw a bit of boost into it on the dyno with some load.. Tune it

drive it around (not highway ks, you need to load the engine up)... keep the RPm reasonable

we did Pauls car in 2 days from memory *Drives with brakes on hahah

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They tell me at CRD to take as long as I can to run it in but drive it normal. Not sure what boost will be on it, not much I guess ?

Did they build the engine? Usually its a safe guard for the tuner if they haven't built assembled it themselves.

The longer you run it in, the longer it lasts generally, but who is really expecting 100 000kms from a built motor.

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Joey, after tune I ran the boat in at the drags, seemed to work well, LOL.

From my understanding the motor is run in within the first 20 minutes of running hence why it is so important to get some power into it asap.

Isn't it all just about getting the honing on the bore sorted to get the seal?

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Yep that's about right Mark.. I've seen engines that are baby'd just pissing out oil. The. Got put on the dyno for 15 min with some load and boost and the blow by nearly stopped all together.

I believe the contributing factor these days is the precision in piston ring manufacturing.

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FMW = Forged Milled Wheel in B-W speak. So billet compressor.

I've found getting a good seal in the bores can take much more than 15mins on the dyno, especially when using chrome rings. A good flogging with plenty of combustion pressures pushing the rings out, and a mineral oil helped mine immensely.

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Mine was driven for 2000km - nothing over 5000rpm on highway and NZ open roads (which are not straight). Put it on the dyno gave it boost and absolutely no blow by. All in the engineering job I say.

And I am glad this thread came up I was thinking of upgrading to a single BW turbo (ditching the -5's).

Might be a good idea.

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Its thread's/vids like these that get me excited for my build. Btw the car looks great. My understanding was that a 2.9 stroker would make the walls of the block too thin.. is that bs? What width piston are you using?

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Its thread's/vids like these that get me excited for my build. Btw the car looks great. My understanding was that a 2.9 stroker would make the walls of the block too thin.. is that bs? What width piston are you using?

It's a 79.3 mm stroke with 86.5 or 87 mm pistons. Not sure if Joey had to go to the next size.

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Its thread's/vids like these that get me excited for my build. Btw the car looks great. My understanding was that a 2.9 stroker would make the walls of the block too thin.. is that bs? What width piston are you using?

Using a custom 87mm piston with a heightened pin location to allow for a longer rod (off the shelf) and better rod/stroke ratio. There was a small worry about having to make clearance at the base of the bore for the extra throw but after a trial assembly it cleared easily

Its a bit under 2.9L atm, but with an 88 mm piston its damn close. I kept to the 87mm cause im trying to make it last as long as possible

an 88 has been done many times before though :)

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Mine was driven for 2000km - nothing over 5000rpm on highway and NZ open roads (which are not straight). Put it on the dyno gave it boost and absolutely no blow by. All in the engineering job I say.

And I am glad this thread came up I was thinking of upgrading to a single BW turbo (ditching the -5's).

Might be a good idea.

I have a graph of 2 very similar setups, one with a BW 83/75 and one with -5's

Take a guess who smoked who haha

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