Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

Just feel I should mention my $4000 "learning excircise" Evo themselves put me through. I will never ever receomend that workshop to anyone.

Anyhow, if anyone needs a WOLF3d tune, HP Race Engine here were involved in the development of the version 4+. I know lots of people "bag" the old Wolf, however I'm very happy with the power, tourque and adjustability.

i am pretty sure ozzy tyres has a good rep i have heard alot about there stores in sydney and i think melbourne too. I went in and had a look on the dyno day they actually had some nice rims on the wall... as well as alot of ugly chrome ones :D

  • 3 weeks later...

Can anyone lend a hand helping me find a place to do a manual conversion to my stagea? everything from skylines just bolts in, but i don't have the time/tools to get it done

So if anyone knows of a place that could help me out that would be appreciated

Ed at Integra could do it... hes become quite accustomed to pulling gearboxes from GTR's, I dont think the Stagea will be much different... if he swears at you though dont take it to heart, its a prick of a job :P

Edited by Amaru

Again, this is just the truth.

During late 2003 I got a quote from EVO to get some work done (Front mount, pump, regulator - the usual), looked ok and I thought I'd get it done (before I found the forums).

Early 2004, I dropped my car in the get fixed and tuned.

When I picked my car up it had rubber in the rear gaurds. I was pretty suss of that, and wasn't offered an explination other than it must have been me.

They told me it had 176 kws (flywheel) which I doubt, it was running WORSE than before.

I was charged $500 more than my quote, which was not explained.

Then, on the way home my boost controller blows (power down, no lights). Im going WTF?? Get home, find there is no gromet for the wiring. Its of course shorted. My overpriced boost controller is now dead, and I'm up for another $500.

Get it on a hoist, no hi flow cat that I paid for, although mine had been gutted. Was charged $400 for this. They were not happy that I found this, and claimed it was a hiflow. I had to turn up at the shop with mates and more or less standover them to get the part. No ok at all.

Oh, also left 3 boost leaks, Boost gauge stopped working after 2 weeks.

It caused a rethink of the way I wanted to make power, however it wasn't a cheap lesson.

I essentally payed over $4000 for an intercooler, feul pump and regulator, service and expensive plugs.

***Update***

Also, the the RevFest (october 2005) I ran the Dyno comp, an R32 GTR in metalflake blue turned up fresh from its dyno tune at Evo. A few people had talked it up, saying it was making around 280rwkws, and he wanted to back it up here (he would been a possible class winner).

HP has a Dyno Dynamics Dyno that was in shootout mode. I admit the day was a bit warm (around 29 - 31ish). Out of 3 runs it made a best of 240ish HORSEPOWER at the wheels (around 190kws). I've never seen anyone just look so sad, it was what I looked like when evo ripped me off. the guy just kinda left - and I havn't run into him to see what happend - but he paid quiet a bit of money from what he was saying.

I honestly would hate to see any other SAUer go through what EVO put me through, and to do in their cash like I did. I hope Chris and the other workers from Evo see this one day and know that I'm their worst sales rep ever, and will never stop baging that place.

Rant out.

Ed at Integra could do it... hes become quite accustomed to pulling gearboxes from GTR's, I dont think the Stagea will be much different... if he swears at you though dont take it to heart, its a prick of a job  :)

I actually went and had a chat to him yesterday, he's keen to do it so long as i get the parts.

told me he's thinking of selling the forester and getting a manual stagea, i think i turned him

Hey Dude, I recently bought an r33 skyline too..... I had to get a new motor put into it and a few other mods done.....The best place I have found, that is also a reasonable price is at C & J Car All Make at the Garren Mobil on Robson st in Garren. Go and see Joe and Charlie....those guys are awesome with skylines.....

As i'm sure many of you are aware, i will soon be the proud owner of an R33 Series II. I live in the Tuggeranong area and was wondering where i should go to get my car serviced, who is recommended and more importantly who to keep away from. I heard the mechanic at EVO motorsport is pretty good, does anyone here use him?

Thanks in advance.

Welcome Richie$Rich haven't seen you on the forums before mate.The post you quoted above has a May 2004 date on it :D.

As per other posts in this thread I'm not impressed with EVO at all. Stay away from them unless you like heartache and throwing away cash.

I heard Fast and Furious moved? Where are they now? I need the clock in my dash fixed and also the A/C "clack-clack" problem fixed. I'm not worried about being ripped off cos it'll be under warranty (at least, I think I'm safe?! lol), but do they at least do a decent job? or do they joy-ride n stuff like everyone says EVO do? I read somewhere that they were moving to a better premises to be taken more seriously as a workshop...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...