Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi all,

before anyone says anything yes i have looked thur all oil control related topics and no i havnt seen anything that answers my questions...

i have bought a nitto oil pump and collar to run on my rb25det street driven r33

oil galleries have been widen in the block for faster return from head

my questions are...

engine builder has inform me that anything above 100psi will blow the oil filter off, or the O ring, now seeing as the nitto oil pump is rated at 120psi dual spring he sees this as a problem, i have mention removing the inner spring to bring the psi down to 75psi he said this is not good?

anyone that currently has a nitto pump on the rb25 have you left it at 120psi with no issues?

also do yous have a remote oil filter?

secondly

oil restritors

he doesnt seem to wanna fit oil restritors to the block with the nitto pump coz of noisey lifters he has said he will fit them if its what i want but if it has noisey lifters its my own fault which is true

i have spoken to andrew at nitto in regards to what oil restritors i should use and he doesnt wanna give me a answer coz if something happens he doesnt wanna be blamed.. which is fair enough

have also spoken to croydon racing he has let me know what size restritors they use on the rb25 with nitto pump

and they have nothing but great news with nitto pumps and with them been on there gtr's with over 1000hp

if anyone can clear up these issues that will be great thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/415543-nitto-oil-pump-oil-restritors-rb25/
Share on other sites

To me it sounds like you are using the wrong engine builder, or someone that knows nothing about the issues RB's have in that department.

Restrictions are mandatory with a larger pump, oil filter will not blow off either.

Bit surprised a company, making a product well above spec, won't give you advise though given they would've tested the product and know the issues their product would create (on a stock motor).

ill clear a fair things up

engine builder has some insights of building rb's but hasnt used a high flow pump i believe in saying that he has done all the oil mods in the block for the oil to get down quicker.... but yeh somethings dont add up and i question why on some parts

like blowing oil filter off and not putting oil restritors in with high flow pump,

also my motor isnt stock

je pistons

nitto rods

arp head and mains

256 cams

8.5litre sump baffled, gated, extended pickup

yeah thats why i rang nitto for some advise seeing they would of trail and error the pumps, but andrew has told me that what oil size restritor is really up to the engine builder :/ but if i work out the oil restritor and a head drain it be a great setup,

rang crd which help devople the nitto pump with nitto and they have helped me out with the size oil restritor they have used, thanks for that guys

Hi Guys. Oil restrictor sizing can be a touchy topic for us to recommend on when there will always be many factors about the engine and it's usage that we don't know about.

Whilst we will always do our best to talk to those using our products and try and get an idea about their build and usage, it should typically be up to the engine builder to determine the correct type of oil restriction to the cylinder head as so many factors like usage, bearing clearances, rpm ceiling, cylinder head setup, sump setup, oil viscosity and more ultimately make this decision.

We have been talking to Michael about his setup and build to help offer as best solution as we can see fit but as we have not built the engine it is a hard call. The original Sydneykid guide is a good start but every engine is different as I'm sure you can all appreciate. What works for one will not always work for another and considering a lot of shops these days that leave engine assembley to others without discussing the actual usage of the engine, the information we need is sometimes hard to get or at least questionable.

PS: R31Nismoid - In our defence I'm not sure what other oil pump manufacturer would even reply to an email / take a phone call about these types of questions??

Nitto has been great with helping out and taking the time out to have a chat and talk about everything they possible know and to give the best advise they can without building the motor them selfs, I appreciate the help nitto has given thanks guys

There is so many factors with running a high volume pump different ways to set them up, nitto pump on gtr there is heaps of info for but for a rb25 I'm struggling to find some, so I guess it's gonna be a trail and error for this build

Forged motor

Je pistons

Nitto rods

Acl race bearings

Head studs main studs

256 cams

Crank collar

Nitto pump

9l baffled, wing, gated sump

Not sure of what clearances the engine builder is running but he said they were big clearance s

Cheers man, builder is going with block one and 1x1.5

So running the nitto pump at 120psi will be ok? Not sure if that's at full noise or cold start, nitto site just says crack off pressure

Way excessive. 65-80 psi hot is ample for your application. 120 is more than needed, will add excess oil to head, not to mention potentially damaging things, remember anything under high pressure is abrasive...

Way excessive. 65-80 psi hot is ample for your application. 120 is more than needed, will add excess oil to head, not to mention potentially damaging things, remember anything under high pressure is abrasive...

Nitto web site says you can remove the inner spring which will give a 75psi crack off pressure

Do you reckon that would be the go?

But nitto do not recommend to do it :/

hi all,

before anyone says anything yes i have looked thur all oil control related topics and no i havnt seen anything that answers my questions...

i have bought a nitto oil pump and collar to run on my rb25det street driven r33

oil galleries have been widen in the block for faster return from head

my questions are...

engine builder has inform me that anything above 100psi will blow the oil filter off, or the O ring, now seeing as the nitto oil pump is rated at 120psi dual spring he sees this as a problem, i have mention removing the inner spring to bring the psi down to 75psi he said this is not good?

anyone that currently has a nitto pump on the rb25 have you left it at 120psi with no issues?

also do yous have a remote oil filter?

secondly

oil restritors

he doesnt seem to wanna fit oil restritors to the block with the nitto pump coz of noisey lifters he has said he will fit them if its what i want but if it has noisey lifters its my own fault which is true

i have spoken to andrew at nitto in regards to what oil restritors i should use and he doesnt wanna give me a answer coz if something happens he doesnt wanna be blamed.. which is fair enough

have also spoken to croydon racing he has let me know what size restritors they use on the rb25 with nitto pump

and they have nothing but great news with nitto pumps and with them been on there gtr's with over 1000hp

if anyone can clear up these issues that will be great thanks

Hi i have a nitto pump in my rb25 with crank coller i removed the inner spring in the pump because i thought the extra pressure would give me oil problems I was advised to restrict the oil to the head which led to lifter and cam failure I removed the restrictor and used the standard restrictors with new hyd lifters and new cams and 5000kms later have had no problems and allways have good oil pressure i also add an extra 500mls of oil at oil changes.

Specify what size restrictor you used? Did you use to small a restrictor for the wrong application etc.

At the moment I'm wondering why it is advised to block the centre oil feed instead of the rear when upgrading pump as the forces during accelration it seems would keep oil at the back of the head. Unless I'm missing where the oil feeds in around the head

Might need to go have a look at where all the oil goes :)

Specify what size restrictor you used? Did you use to small a restrictor for the wrong application etc.

At the moment I'm wondering why it is advised to block the centre oil feed instead of the rear when upgrading pump as the forces during accelration it seems would keep oil at the back of the head. Unless I'm missing where the oil feeds in around the head

Might need to go have a look at where all the oil goes :)

How is yours going for oil pressure with the inner removed?

My engine builder has removed the inner spring and added a shim...

My restritors are block centre, 1.5mm rear I believe!! The car is just a street daily driver will see street pulls and boost here and there

So you have a nitto pump and have left the standard restritors in?

And not having any oiling problems?

I was gonna get a 9l sump made up as I was even told that in one case a guy had a nitto pump on standard sump and empty the sump in 40secs at full throttle... Was also told 6.5l wouldn't be enough :/

Specify what size restrictor you used? Did you use to small a restrictor for the wrong application etc.

At the moment I'm wondering why it is advised to block the centre oil feed instead of the rear when upgrading pump as the forces during accelration it seems would keep oil at the back of the head. Unless I'm missing where the oil feeds in around the head

Might need to go have a look at where all the oil goes :)

The oil that would run to the back of the head would be the oil thats passed the lifters/cam journals and is running back down, the pressure side of the galleries would be changed minimally with G's

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...