Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Great build mate, well done - really impressed how everything just fits so well.

Who did the wiring? Looks like it would have been a tough job.

Cheers mate

I separated and labelled the VQ30 engine loom from the Y33 Cima front cut and took it to a local bloke up here to have it merged into the S15 body/engine loom.

If it wasn't for the ABS component I probably would have sorted it out myself, but old bud did a great job - direct plug in job straight to the S15 'F4' Body loom plug.

Thought i'd get on the VQ bandwagon before bandwagon rolled out :D

So Simpletool and I got this out onto the street this afternoon, ended up doing about 200km's of road tuning (in 30deg heat so about as hot as it'll ever see :D)

No leaks, no bangs, no rattles & still handles well (feels like no weight has been added at all) - everything worked as it should.

20121216_154131.jpg

20121216_164003.jpg

Tune wise most cruise is now sorted - idle will need a fair bit of work but we seem to be making positive progress (so many idle parameters in Nistune, once its sorted it will be perfect).

Initially we weren't going to tune for boost but ended up seeing 14psi - think its going to go OK ;)

I was going to ask how it handled with some additional weight up front. you didn't happen to weigh the car before and after the engine swap? also, great writeup! thoroughly jealous, love the S15 shape but I loved my VQ also. together............. well, looks like only you know lol

Cheers guys!

Not sure if i'll get a strut brace on it, its all pretty tight up high in the engine bay.

So after a couple of hundered KM's this is the finished engine bay with all systems now hooked up.

20121216_223051.jpg

20121216_223232.jpg

And this is how i sorted out the boost controller.

20121216_223301.jpg

Hopefully tune/skids from here on.

Thought i'd get on the VQ bandwagon before bandwagon rolled out :D

So Simpletool and I got this out onto the street this afternoon, ended up doing about 200km's of road tuning (in 30deg heat so about as hot as it'll ever see :D)

No leaks, no bangs, no rattles & still handles well (feels like no weight has been added at all) - everything worked as it should.

Tune wise most cruise is now sorted - idle will need a fair bit of work but we seem to be making positive progress (so many idle parameters in Nistune, once its sorted it will be perfect).

Initially we weren't going to tune for boost but ended up seeing 14psi - think its going to go OK ;)

nice build, i've got a soft spot for the vq30's

the vq30 weighs 200kgs so its the same as the sr20

I want the keys next time ;) Need to compare it to my lowly RB.

An amazing build, it's only now I'm looking at some of the details in the build thread/s that I can see how amazing it was for it to start and run first time with no issues.

I'm keen to sort out the "funny" logic tables in VQ nistune world.

Edited by simpletool

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...