Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Having never pushed the limits of my turbo R33, i got to thinking about what happens when you blow one. So quite simply, whats happens when you blow a turbo (such as the classic overboosting concequence of pushing a stock ceramic/nilon turbo to destruction)? Can you still drive home? or will you be taking a tow truck home?

And also, how many people out there changed over the turbo at home, Vs getting a shop to do it. Was it a great difficuilty, or just a lot of grunt work?

Hoping to never have this happen, but am interested to know

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/418422-have-you-ever-blown-a-turbo/
Share on other sites

Turbos are a very easy swap, hardest part is getting the nuts off if they haven't been removed before. I can get my hotside off in about an hour these days.

As for driving it, a car with a blown turbo will drive fine it will just be slow as shit, obviously. How worried you should be about ceramic particles finding their way back through your exhaust ports is another matter...

And Im guessing you would have to drain your oil/coolant to do this too, right?

yep those need draining

my bro blew a turbo, and engine, turbos easy, ended up doing 3 ish times, you get good at it... engine on the other hand, he had a mate that has done it a few times, i wouldnt do it myself

Shitting a turbo can take the motor with it.

Some GTS-t owners have shat turbos, and had the comp wheel come loose (same time as exhaust wheel). Comp wheel has somehow managed to make it all the way past the cooler/throttle body and lunched the motor. So you wouldn't be driving anywhere really, smashing the valves as well isn't a smart idea if there is debris/chunks in the cylinder.

So in short - Why be silly and push it? :thumbsup:

^Wow. Extreme F.O.D?

I pulled this off at work, it's a 2008 Mazda CX-7 turbo with 80,000km. The owner has had it since new and it was last serviced at 55,000km. The oil feed was completely caked with carbon, hence starving the bearing and snapping the shaft.

20130124_102401_zps64ed29fa.jpg

  • 1 year later...

Same thing happened to my CX-7, bought with ~75,000kms, serviced strictly and the same shaft snapping happened at 102,000kms on the dot. FYI the caking of the oil feed is due to the exhaust gas finding a new path down the oil inlet after the wheels fall out of the bearing. Caused me to dump a few litres of oil on the driveway as I returned home after hearing the turbo go pyyyooooooooongggggg!

Got a total of 500 meters from the house and it let go, crank pressure through the turbo oil feed blew the dipstick out along with the oil :(

Took me the good part of a weekend to replace the turbo.....longer to clean the engine bay.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
    • Sorry I meant that we are building the EH for a client.
    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
×
×
  • Create New...