Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello all.

Hope 2013 finds you well.

I have read a lot about owners believing that there was a magic percentage of 25%, for drivetrain losses, to allow a conversion from flywheel kW to wheel kW in a RWD platform.

I had always thought this was bunk.

Was suprised to compare two dyno sheets from my car over a three year period.

The 25% was pretty close.

Maybe it's just my car though.

Attached is a spreadsheet which progressively matched the dyno runs.

This is NOT the gospel, it's just what happened for my car.

Jim

KW to HPx.pdf

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/419425-r34-gtt-fwkw-to-rwkw/
Share on other sites

Oh noes!! :no:

I think this will go on for a few pages. Those who mistakenly believe that there is a fixed percentage will get increasingly angry at those who believe there is a relatively fixed loss (with a very small increase in losses due to friction etc as power levels rise).

IBTL

I say the "losses" are largely at the tyre/roller interface (it's the only place where you can liberate 50 - 200 HP where there is sufficient cooling to take the heat away). And in general, on a DD dyno, it's about 25% (including the real losses in the drivetrain, however small they are).

so, pray tell, how did you get flywheel power readings from after you've upped le boost?

Hi xALmoN

Hope all is well.

The FW power noted, is only approximate.

It was proportioned to the original dyno run, when stock.

We slotted in the originally claimed 206FlyWkW, with a 154.4 RWkW actual dyno run, and kept the ratios the same all the way down the chart.

The interesting outcome, was keeping the same percentage of FWkW to RWkW on the second dyno run, resulted in exactly the right amount of RWkW.

Don't forget please, that I only posted this as a result for my car only. Not a gospel on how to convert FWkW to RWkW.

To be honest, there is so much involved in that conversion, I would have no hope of figuring it out (I'm a bit challenged)

It was just an interesting result.

What could actually be happening here is that the FlyWkW is going up or down faster as the power increases, and I wouldn't know it.

I think that the fact that a 'fixed percentage' can be debunked by eventual melting of gearboxes when you're in the 1000s of HP is a fairly certain indicator that it's not correct.

Perhaps for a given gearbox design, it's a percentage loss until a certain point? Who f**king cares anyway.

Subscribed :)

Look forward to checking this after work.

I generally tell ppl the Hp I make at thd wheels is about the kw it makes at the flywheel. While I don't believe its a fixed percentage most ppl are just looking for a number to compare to their car and its close enough and they have no idea what their car makes on a dyno so its much easier

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
    • Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
    • Sounds good, we will aim to be there! @The Bogan I'll give you a shout if you are heading up to campbelltown for the meet too.
    • Before I get to the test day, just to finish off the android head unit. This is a demo from car start up....the standard/host system takes a few seconds to boot (same as all v37) but Android comes up quickly. In this vid I'm using the delivered launcher but have set the default to Agami since which is easier to navigate when if use primarily 5 apps. You can see the host system still takes over when required eg putting it in reverse, and you can switch between Android and not by holding the back button 3 sec. It is pretty responsive (fast) but you can see I had to press harder than expected a couple of times.  I still have the phone connected to the stock system, and that also seamlessly takes over Android music playing. v37-android-demo.mp4 The bigger reason that I put this in though is so that I can use Ecutek directly on the head unit. That gives me a dash with logging (up to 20MB only), high and low value warnings on any parameter etc etc. I've run a USB cable from the Ecutek OBD dongle to a USB input on the unit, easy. v37-ecutek-demo.mp4   The unit did freeze on the launcher the other day, I think Agami was trying to verify the license when it didn't have a data connection...will monitor and report back if there are any other problems but so far I'm very happy with the upgrade.
    • Nah that is just crappy GPS mapping, I did have a small excursion (cold tyres, damp track, surprise!), will post up that when I get a chance.
×
×
  • Create New...