Upgrading Discs

[hardsteppa]

I just wanted to know whether changing discs on their own is worth while and will provide better braking.

back to the OP - having convinced myself 3 times in the past, 'oh yeah buy those slotted rotors, I want to upgrade the brakes', there's no point, unless the diameter of the disc increases by a significant amount. Advertising promises of better braking through gas disbursement etc, is just that, advertisin, I have noticed SFA difference from just slotted/drilled rotors.

[dyl33]

I've read a few threads floating around on the adapters and it looks a pain in the arse to get on, Not a task I would like to do on my own.

I think my best option is option 2 and get a master cylinder stopper to

[hardsteppa]

up to you of course, I found it pretty easy. The master cyclinder brace I consider about the least-needed upgrade, I noticed no difference.

[dyl33]

It's not doing the grinding that I'm worried about, it's more it doesn't look too legal grinding your caliper and there might be RWC issues?

And well the master stopper just looks cool

Edited May 23, 2014 by dyl33

[hardsteppa]

And well the master stopper just looks cool

now we're getting to that heart of the matter hahah, nothing wrong with that as long as you're aware of it and that it isn't going to make the braking difference you're after.

[hardsteppa]

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/440096-clearance-sale-holford-motors/

see if they've got any of the rear upgrade kits left...the price can't be beat

efil4ziggan

[niZmO_Man]

now we're getting to that heart of the matter hahah, nothing wrong with that as long as you're aware of it and that it isn't going to make the braking difference you're after.

Made a difference on my R31 . On my R32, not so much .

[GTSBoy]

I noticed my pedal was a little nicer with the stopper on my R32. Every little bit helps and it's not an expensive thing to do.

[ian]

I'm sort of in the same boat as the first poster (with my R34 GTT), in that I'm going to look to grind my disks - but I suspect it is time that they go as they may not be grindable (been on for a while, and I think one has problems..).

If so, and I just do 'ordinary' street driving (and lots of country driving at 110km/h), would I be right in assuming that DBA 42304 (not s) for the front and DBA 4908 for the back would be a good reasonably priced default choice?

[Charles89]

From almost worn out shitty front pads and oem rotors, I upgraded to RDA slotted rotors, bendix ultimate pads, stock lines, new fluid, brake master cylinder stopper.

And It made a world of difference and it is DEFINITELY noticeable.

Did the rotors and pads first, and even then, there was a difference in stopping distance, maybe because old pads were just crap.

Then the BMC stopper made my brakes FIRM and a much better feel in braking, no more unresponsive spongy brakes.

[KiwiRS4T]

From worn out shitty pads to any half decent new pads WILL make a world of difference!

For a street car if your rotors are in good cond the most important things are to replace the brake fluid (probably never been changed in many cases) and get some good pads.

[simpletool]

brake cylinder stopper doesn't make a difference ? I found a big difference on R33. It made a much bigger difference during hard braking than braided lines. Both these are there to increase feel so you notice graduations in pedal pressure more directly.

Cross-dilled rotors will do almost nothing and have downsides with cracking. Slotted rotors might make some difference once the pads get hot, but nothing until then. Curved vane will make a difference on track - definitely.

The biggest issue is what pads do you run? Pads can make a MASSIVE difference.

First street upgrade is:

decent pads

fluid

brake cylinder stopper

The friction coefficient on pads tells you how hard they bite. Doubling this will double your braking force for given pedal effort. It will also wear your rotors about twice as quick. This coefficient changes over temperature so choose wisely. The biggest issue is pads. Standard bendix is at the low coefficient end, then ultimate/HPX, then A1RM, then DS2500, then HC+, then...well you don't want anything after that.

You still haven't answered what you use the car for. If it's for track then go buy 355mm 6 pot brakes. If it's street only then stock brakes with pads will be fine.

Edited May 31, 2014 by simpletool

[KiwiRS4T]

The way I see it the MC stopper and braided brake lines ( I have both) are of most use in an emergency stop. On the track they change slightly how much pedal and pressure you have to apply until you get to lock-up but in an emergency stop on the road my theory is that they might pull you up that meter or two earlier that might make all the difference.

[simpletool]

I doubt any change to brakes would pull you up much quicker on the street. The stock system with decent pads and fluid will easily overcome even 595RSR 235/40/18s on a single hard stop.

However MCS and braided lines will give you more control over exactly how hard you are stopping - so if you practise they will give more control at the limit.

Saying that the suspension and tyres will have a bigger effect on stopping distance.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Does the car ever hit the track?

If no,

- Machine rotors $7 per side

- Use good pads

- Flush brake fluid

Spend the rest of your money on beer & strippers.

Slotted rotors are gaids.. they crack and wear your pads.. If you want mad brakes, upgrade to evo brembos with STOCK unslotted Evo X rotors.. happy days.

[niZmO_Man]

Or, import some Alcons from the UK

[sweefu]

Does the car ever hit the track?

If no,

- Machine rotors $7 per side

- Use good pads

- Flush brake fluid

Spend the rest of your money on beer & strippers.

Slotted rotors are gaids.. they crack and wear your pads.. If you want mad brakes, upgrade to evo brembos with STOCK unslotted Evo X rotors.. happy days.

$7 to machine rotors? Madness!

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

$7 to machine rotors? Madness!

really? always paid that price and $50 to machine fly wheels

[niZmO_Man]

Where did you get them done? I remember once I paid SIXTY DOLLARS PER ROTOR for my R31. Shame I had to get it done on a Saturday and the dude was close to me. I was desperate to get the car running (work reasons).

I bought brand new rotors for $60 each a year later.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Mekong Spares in Canley Vale, NSW 2166

however, this was about 4 years ago - haven't needed to machine my current rotors