Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sorry for the complete noob question but I wanted to be sure before I ordered them and can't find an answer on the site. I have a 2003 m35 250t rs4, are these the right model numbers for the QFM A1RM brake pads:

Front: http://gslrallysport.com/au/qfm-db1232a1rm-brake-pads.html
Rear: http://gslrallysport.com/au/brakes/brake-pads/db1509a1rm-qfm-a1rm-brake-pads.html

thanks! :)

Are you tracking the car?

A1rm are a light track pad. For street go for their HPX pad, and just ask for 350z NON brembo pads. Job done. Gsl rally sport are good.

Is there any disadvantage to getting the A1RM pad if doing little to no track use (other than cost)?

They will go through your rotors quicker, and will be less effective because you won't get them hot enough to be in their optimum working range.

If you are getting pad fade with HPX then you need to take it to the track. Remsa are also ok I've heard, and gsl are moving to them.

The REMSA's are brilliant; gsl reckon they're halfway between HPX & AR1M on temp range ,but nowhere near as hard on rotors as the AR1M.

No squeaks or shudder, just dusty.

I like 'em that way.

I'll be testing out the a1rms on the 180 on Tuesday. I've got a full set of them in, they need a good bedding in which I might do on the way down to Wakefield.

Should work well on a lighter car. I did have pad fade from the hpx on the track in the stagea or whatever be got in the back. To be expected after I purposely put some hard stops into them.

Everything above about A1rm's is correct. I really need to get them off mine, lots of dust , poor feel until I get some heat into them and I hate to think what they doing to my discs. However, I was very happy with the one track day I did. ( 10 min sessions at Marulan ).

Give GSL a call and be honest about what you want from your pad. If it is just for the street, just get a street pad.

Thanks everyone. very helpful advice, steered me away from a terrible decision! Ended up going with the HPX pads all around so hopefully they are as good as you all say haha

:cheers:

The HPX is a good daily/ fast road pad; just make sure you follow the bed-in instructions closely.

People seem to go bananas when bedding them in; overheat them and they squeal like a bitch. There is no need to do tonnes of stops from 100+km/h!

I did the ones on my missus car at no more than 60km/h in back streets, and they are quiet as a mouse; with great feel. Bugger all dust too.

GSL Rallysport are great to deal with as well; they had pads & rotors to me (Blue Mountains) from QLD, IN ONE DAY!

My HPX are squeal free and good feel, but dusty as all hell...

Must be the slotted discs making them do that... :whistling:

Less than 24 hours to me 45 minutes east of Melbourne..

I have hpx they stop awesome and virtually dust free. Mine do squeal like hell but maybe I didn't actually bed them right after what dale said

Shims are most important. Anything is going to squeal without shims. If they aren't installed properly, even in the slightest, you'll get squeal.

Every QFM pads have bedding in instructions in the packet.

Yeah I have learnt the hard way before.<br /><br />The advice I got from gsl was anti squeal paste between pad and shim - but not between shim and piston.<br /><br />Do you agree? <br />

It can't hurt.

I've used the stuff before, and had squeal, not used it and had no squeal. When you have the pads out, give them a small scrub on a concrete surface to take off the sheen. Helps them bed in a bit more.

Well i have put it between pad and shim, and on the other side of the shim also. I understand it just to be an insulating barrier, it doesn't stick or hold anything together. <br /><br />Will bleed them up and start the bed in process as per instructions. If they squeal I will be pissed. Ok on a tough stripped out racer or street car with one thing in mind , but on a luxury gt like a 350GT - ain't nobody got time fo dat!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
    • When you pulled it off, there is no signs of blown head gasket? Is it possible you have some other issues going on? Possible cracked blocked? Or do you think it's straight up lifting the head? Did you check what the head was torqued to before pulling it down (To see if possibly they're stretching, or starting to break threads out etc)?
    • Seems like a decent result for a modded JZX110. They are bulky in comparison to the 100 and 90 models (which I'd prefer myself) but they are getting very few and far between here in JP these days. Thanks for the detailed review and the import process into the UK. I also have a car which I'm hoping to export from Japan at some stage so it's good to know if someone from the UK was interested in it. By the way the corrosion underneath is par for the course for cars which were located in/near the mountains or along the Japan sea coastline. They get huge amounts of snow every winter and the sodium chloride is used on the roads. Many cars have some kind of rubber like treatment underneath but they tend to limit it to the wheel arches underbody and fuel tank. Suspension arms and sub-frames will have similar corrosion to your JZX110 which is a common sight. See it all the time and car dealers here generally don't even mention it unless asked.
    • If the sound goes away when you clutch in, the 1.5/2 way diffs are just shit, and you are a normal person. The diff is likely "fine" but driving at anything under 30kmh is a violent horrible experience. It would be exaggerated with solid diff bushings and subframe bushings if you have those.
×
×
  • Create New...