Jump to content
SAU Community

Qfm A1Rm Brake Pads, Are These Correct?

jackbh241
 Share

Recommended Posts

jackbh241 Collaborator

jackbh241

Posted
Posted

Sorry for the complete noob question but I wanted to be sure before I ordered them and can't find an answer on the site. I have a 2003 m35 250t rs4, are these the right model numbers for the QFM A1RM brake pads:

Front: http://gslrallysport.com/au/qfm-db1232a1rm-brake-pads.html
Rear: http://gslrallysport.com/au/brakes/brake-pads/db1509a1rm-qfm-a1rm-brake-pads.html

thanks! :)

jackbh241 Collaborator

jackbh241

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Are you tracking the car?

A1rm are a light track pad. For street go for their HPX pad, and just ask for 350z NON brembo pads. Job done. Gsl rally sport are good.

Is there any disadvantage to getting the A1RM pad if doing little to no track use (other than cost)?

PN-Mad Grand Master

PN-Mad

Posted
Posted

They will go through your rotors quicker, and will be less effective because you won't get them hot enough to be in their optimum working range.

If you are getting pad fade with HPX then you need to take it to the track. Remsa are also ok I've heard, and gsl are moving to them.

Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted

The REMSA's are brilliant; gsl reckon they're halfway between HPX & AR1M on temp range ,but nowhere near as hard on rotors as the AR1M.

No squeaks or shudder, just dusty.

I like 'em that way.

PN-Mad Grand Master

PN-Mad

Posted
Posted

I'll be testing out the a1rms on the 180 on Tuesday. I've got a full set of them in, they need a good bedding in which I might do on the way down to Wakefield.

Should work well on a lighter car. I did have pad fade from the hpx on the track in the stagea or whatever be got in the back. To be expected after I purposely put some hard stops into them.

Bodella Proficient

Bodella

Posted
Posted

Everything above about A1rm's is correct. I really need to get them off mine, lots of dust , poor feel until I get some heat into them and I hate to think what they doing to my discs. However, I was very happy with the one track day I did. ( 10 min sessions at Marulan ).

Give GSL a call and be honest about what you want from your pad. If it is just for the street, just get a street pad.

Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted

Thanks everyone. very helpful advice, steered me away from a terrible decision! Ended up going with the HPX pads all around so hopefully they are as good as you all say haha

:cheers:

The HPX is a good daily/ fast road pad; just make sure you follow the bed-in instructions closely.

People seem to go bananas when bedding them in; overheat them and they squeal like a bitch. There is no need to do tonnes of stops from 100+km/h!

I did the ones on my missus car at no more than 60km/h in back streets, and they are quiet as a mouse; with great feel. Bugger all dust too.

GSL Rallysport are great to deal with as well; they had pads & rotors to me (Blue Mountains) from QLD, IN ONE DAY!

Brick Mentor

Brick

Posted
Posted

My HPX are squeal free and good feel, but dusty as all hell...

Must be the slotted discs making them do that... :whistling:

Less than 24 hours to me 45 minutes east of Melbourne..

I have hpx they stop awesome and virtually dust free. Mine do squeal like hell but maybe I didn't actually bed them right after what dale said

PN-Mad Grand Master

PN-Mad

Posted
Posted

Shims are most important. Anything is going to squeal without shims. If they aren't installed properly, even in the slightest, you'll get squeal.

Every QFM pads have bedding in instructions in the packet.

SMOKEYV35 Mentor

SMOKEYV35

Posted
Posted

Yeah I have learnt the hard way before.<br /><br />The advice I got from gsl was anti squeal paste between pad and shim - but not between shim and piston.<br /><br />Do you agree? <br />

PN-Mad Grand Master

PN-Mad

Posted
Posted

It can't hurt.

I've used the stuff before, and had squeal, not used it and had no squeal. When you have the pads out, give them a small scrub on a concrete surface to take off the sheen. Helps them bed in a bit more.

SMOKEYV35 Mentor

SMOKEYV35

Posted
Posted

Well i have put it between pad and shim, and on the other side of the shim also. I understand it just to be an insulating barrier, it doesn't stick or hold anything together. <br /><br />Will bleed them up and start the bed in process as per instructions. If they squeal I will be pissed. Ok on a tough stripped out racer or street car with one thing in mind , but on a luxury gt like a 350GT - ain't nobody got time fo dat!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      M35 Brake caliper replacement

      By Duncan · Posted

      You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Duncan
      Most women will agree that parking is the most taxing part of driving

      By Duncan · Posted

      Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Duncan
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
    • Duncan
      NC MX5

      By Duncan · Posted

      On the bright side, the weather will turn much nicer for working outside shortly....sounds like you might need to start on a neighbour's garden next
    • Kapr
      Boost cut after swap(RB25DET NEO) R34

      By Kapr · Posted

      Ok so i will NEED to have this sensor anyway even with Nistune (or standalone ECU) https://justjap.com/products/genuine-nissan-boost-pressure-sensor-evap-control-system-fits-nissan-r34-skyline-c34-nm35-stagea-pnt30-x-trail-rb25det-vq25det-sr20vet?currency=AUD&srsltid=AfmBOoqfxX48bW9bEwH62orcNhtBfp7ekAL0C9Ca89ySFGUiBzXfXeze Is this the correct one? And this is only thing i need? No other "things" connected to the sensor or something? I do have the wiring.
×
×
  • Create New...