Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys i need input from you gurus as to which way to go with wiring.... I am starting from scratch and want it to be as clean and simple as possible. I am thinking maybe a central Dash mounted panel with resettable circuit breakers and run all the basics through them so I don't have to worry about fuses. Obviously good quality wire and relays.

If anyone has any suggestions please jump in!!

Check out raychem products, you can go all out use their wire, heatshrink, moulded joins, cover the loom in dr-25 etc. where ever you mount the panel it needs to be easy to get to so your not upside down tangled in the cage trying to work on the electrics, resettable circuit breakers are the way to go for sure!

Haha this thread is turning into a 'ask for help' thread. Oh well.

My tuner made some comments about running the Haltech PS2000 ECU i have and wants me to run a motec system.

Super expensive but happy to pay the money if worth it.

What are you guys thoughts???

You might have to search google, I havn't seen a topic on here about their stuff but that doesn't mean their isn't. It's pretty high end to go with their moulded joins, looms covered in dr-25 but very good quality, there might be cheaper alternatives.

With ECUs you could argue all day about what's better but in my opinion it's best to either find a tuner that likes your ECU or use what he recommends

Yeah having a tuner who is confident in the product he/she is tuning is definitely a consideration.

Their products seem interesting, cant find a massive amount of info on it unfortunately but found the Australian distributor so will give them a call!!

  • 10 months later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Hey guys,

IM BACK!!!

So keen to update you all on the progress, lots has happened!!!

Although the car is not finished, it has been coming along nicely and i have done lots of work to the old girl. I will update the thread with photos and details shortly.

Noddy: The car will run a very special 26/30, standard gearbox (for now) and NISMO diff. I just had a little peak at your build, they dont look tooo dissimilar. Woudl be keen to hear how yours goes and think we should pit them against eachother sometime ;)

#skyginer: Yeah the geomerty itself is standard however we have installed every IKEA Formula arm available (roll centre included) bar the front upper control arms which they said wouldnt be back in stock for a long time. SO for this i modified some CUSCO arms.

  • 7 months later...

OK.... Slightly overdue I know.....

We have made quite a lot of progress and I am now going to try and bring you all up to speed..... I am uploading heaps of photos to my PC now so shall do a big post tomorrow!

Cheers,

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
    • Final update!!! Got the front bar fitted and sprayed and all sorted now. My cutouts worked great and the indicators aren’t just falling off. 😂  
    • Is this a brand new LSD? if so, have you followed any break/bed in procedure for it? Usually involves heaps of figure 8 patterns, a fluid flush.
    • It's TWO steering wheels actually. 😛 one for each hand They are wheels, and they steer!
×
×
  • Create New...