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Had great fun today, but a few issues as well. Before we took it out we has to bash the front guards to get the tyres to fit properly. Dan took it out for the first session and was having massive blow by issues. I could see huge plumes of blue smoke from the other side of the track which is never a good sign. We also managed to smash the nut holding exhaust in place so the exhaust was hanging off when it came in, along with oil pissing out of the side of the engine. Missed the next timed session to fix it so the fastest time he got on record was a 1.06, but on the qstarz he logged a 1.04.62 which is pretty damn quick I think. Best I managed was a 1.07.58 which I'm also pretty happy with.

Thanks mate. We really need to piss off all the old shitty hoses, along with the wiring. Apologies to those who got smoke screened!

I'll try and get some footage up shortly. Saw a few photographers out there, hopefully there's some good shots of it around. Looks awesome with the big wheels and tyres. Almost there!

G-Sensor was good! Although the diffs are unloading a fair bit which is affecting the 4WD, but looks like we have fixed at least one issue. I have to say the car has never gripped up like that before, but that might be a combination of good tyres, camber and a working 4WD system. I'll give you a call about the seperator, I need all the help I can get!

Cheers guys!

10275327_10154095460620301_1803178128339

Your car looks amazing right now; the wheels suit it so well!

I didn't want to spam your build thread, & I'm sure you've seen the pics before but I saw these today & thought of your build.

Just in case;

10320615_757066880994343_264859350407423

10264577_753619794672385_987602350626050

Feel free to delete, and apologies in advance.

Cheers, Dale

No way dude those pics are awesome! I love the '94 cars, and anything JGTC really especially from this period. Found an awesome clip from Fuji Speedway from '94 http://youtu.be/Ba5RVE49tdA

  • Like 1

You only look at he front diff if its broken or to upgrade to a LSD

You have to pull the box to do the transfer ( only do this after you have fixed the rear diff as it should be fine)...or unless your feeling rich

Rear diff is a pull and put a nismo clutch pack through

Heya JR,

Transfer case will best come out with gearbox.

Rear diff is straight forward.

Front diff centre can be removed from sump in situ, but it sucks.

Next time your engine is out you can remove the box with the engine and do whatever you want.

If the sump comes off, also a good time to get some breathers welded in to reduce the effect of your blowby ;)

Mark :)

Took all the pipes off on the turbo side to find oil in them,

1001987_10153111231466808_53029055647440

Question:

does this oil mean should be looking at the turbo seals? evidence of inline restrictor?, is it too much oil to be blow-by?

The car was blowing smoke off throttle, we turned the boost down to 9psi and this reduced the smoke but if we revved to 7200 it would happen again off throttle.

any thoughts?

Heya DMAN :)

Oil in the compressor isn't a result of engine blowby. As mentioned on the phone, check for oil restrictors for the BB turbos. They shouldn't see more than 45psi at max revs which is less than an OE RB26 oil pump will produce.

A 1.0mm oil restrictor in each turbo should reduce the oil bypassing the turbo seals (unless the turbos are just old and need seals anyways)

Reducing boost will not change the oil bypassing the turbo oil seals, it'll only reduce blowby. That might be reason why you're still getting smoke on low boost.

Pop your cooler off and drain it into a container ;)

Engine blowby is a different kettle of fish.

Happy to chat more after work during the week if you guys are free :)

Mark :)

Found an interesting post over at GTROC, credit to Lightspeed:

The R32 GT-R was designed by Nissan to dominate Group A racing which it did superbly, winning every race in the Japanese group A touring car series it entered up until rule changes effectively finished Group A Touring cars.

Nissan had been struggling in Japanese Touring Cars with the R31 against stiff competition from the Sierra RS500’s and BMW M3’s. In1990 Nismo version was used to homologate aerodynamic revisions and larger turbo chargers in much the same way that the RS500 evolved the Sierra Cosworth.

Engines for Group A were developed by Reinik (Racing Engineering Incorporated Nissan Kohki) within the framework allowed by the Group A rules. Modifications were uprated oil pump (same design as Reinik/Reimax and early HKS one), extended baffled sump (made from 2 stock sumps), uprated camshafts, cooling channel pistons, uprated oil squirters, blueprinted rods and crank, ported head and exhaust manifold (within homologation profiles), 550cc injectors, Reinik fuel rail, stock intake manifold and intercooler, uprated water pump (different impeller to N1 and with 4 lightening holes drilled in pulley mounting flange), Nismo version turbos (T04B 0.42A/R housing, T3 62 trim compressor, CD79 15 degree cut back turbine wheel in 0.64 A/R housing, 360 degree thrust), Reinik alloy power steering bracket, Reinik cam pulleys, Reinik water pump and alternator pulleys, Reinik flywheel, Reinik crank damper, large alloy radiator, enormous oil cooler and Reinik turbo outlet pipes (HKS ones are similar). Clutch was a small diameter AP Racing (or possibly Tilton) unit. Twin side exit exhaust – one per turbo. Power between 550 and 600 hp depending on circuit and cam choice.


Several different gearboxes were homologated, dogleg 5 speeds through to 6 speed (possibly sequential?). Transfer box had less plates than stock and magnesium casings. Possibly had larger shaft diameters. Oil coolers on box, transfer and both diffs.

Fuel was from an enormous bag tank fuel cell in the boot with a large array of fuel pumps to scavenge every corner.

Plumbing was mainly ICORE (now BMRS) lightweight hoses.

Airjack system fitted for quick wheelchange.

Shell seam welded with multipoint weld in cage that picked up on all the rear subframe mount studs in the rear floor area. Was also tied through to the front turrets where the upper arm bracket bolts on.

Recaro Profi SP-A Carbon Kevlar seat. Nismo 330F Suede steering wheel or for the Calsonic cars, Impul 913 Special (custom Momo model 78). Sabelt 6 point harness. Dashboard lightened by with big holes in the plastic shell under the stock covering. Stock door cards as per Group A regs but manual window winders. Possibly ran thinner glass as Nismo used to list this for the side windows. Lifeline extinguisher. Dashboard used Group A specific gauges. The Rev counter had a dark blue face with the GT-R logo printed on (looks like it may have been made by Stack but no confirmation on this). ATTESSA adjustable on a rotary dash knob. Tilton brake bias adjuster for pedal box fitted on dash.

Suspension arms were all custom fabricated with magnesium uprights. The front swan neck link was fabricated from 3 steel tubes with plated reinforcements. Upper suspension arm was an N shape wishbone the picked up on the outside faces of the stock bracket. Dampers were KYB or Koni with sphericals top and bottom. The upper damper mounts were large alloy billet machinings to accept the vertical eye fittings on the race shocks. Anti roll bars were very large diameter compared to stock with blade type ends and cable operated adjusters next to the driver on the gear tunnel. I think they ran both with and without HICAS as I have seen pictures of rear racks with and without hydraulic lines attached. Wheels were 18x10J centrelocks running Bridgestone slicks or wets. Driveshafts were all uprated units with (GKN motorsport CV?) joints. Propshaft was either stock type or (ACPT?) Carbon.

Brakes AP or Alcon* 6 pots up front with disc sizes from 355 up to 380mm. 4 pot rears. A enormous array of brake cooling ducts were homologated and even carbon discs. Bias pedal box with AP cylinders.

Externally – Nismo version aero package plus small wing mirrors.

  • Like 1

Hey guys, I'm currently looking at some rear lower control arms to shorten shorten the rear. I currently have about 3 degrees of camber in the rear, but I can't dial it in any further. Will adjustable rear lower control arms like the ones below be able to adjust in further than standard?

Here's the ones I'm looking at:

http://bowers.net.au/shop/hardrace-rear-lower-control-arms-nissan-silviaskyline-s13-r32/

Ebay ones for half the price:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Rear-Lower-Adjustable-Control-Arms-Camber-Nissan-S13-S14-S15-R32-R33-RWD-/160995093386?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item257c0e2b8a&_uhb=1

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/JDM-Performance-s13-s14-s15-r32-r33-r34-rear-lower-control-arm-/151290862574?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2339a35bee&_uhb=1

Is there any major difference between the three? Anyone know of any other alternatives? I really want to have about 1.5 degs camber in the rear.

Cheers

How much can the stock half shaft move inward? Shortening the arm will pull the driveshaft in, just something to check.

Maybe an option would be to machine the hub of the wheel, to raise the offset, will give more clearance.

Will pull it apart this weekend to see if there's any play

When is the race livery going on!

Soon!!!

I'm going for these ones:

$T2eC16FHJGkE9no8fzejBRJFZ)oDww~~60_57.J

Apparently they have adjustability -/+ 5 degrees. Should I have any issues with this kit?

And they say compatible with 32 GTST, I'm assuming GTR is the same right?

  • 2 weeks later...

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