Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

There is no need, just clean the stainless mesh filter with brake cleaner. Use high temp silicone to reseal the sump, and don't do the screws too tight. I have never had to replace the gasket once.

If you need parts, there are some on Ebay locally it seems. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Premium-Auto-Trans-Filter-Service-Kit-KFS964-Trans-RE5R05A-Speed-5-/251422734703

Not sure if they are the parts we need though... No pics.

  • 3 months later...

Even the VQ35 starter sort of fits, it's larger and probably more powerful than the little VQ25 unit. The power lead is on a different angle and gets close to the hot side cooler pipe, but mine doesn't seem to be an issue as yet, wouldn't be hard to insulate the wire better though, or just tape it down.

I am interested to see if the VQ35 AFM will work too, as long as the voltage/airflow curve is similar it would be a great upgrade for those of us blowing AFM's constantly. I have new plugs in stock for them, and if you are tuning the car it probably wouldn't matter, but if the curve is out the stock ecu may not like it. Just need to spin a stock Stagea up on the dyno after fitting one before I can recommend them.

  • Like 1

Even the VQ35 starter sort of fits, it's larger and probably more powerful than the little VQ25 unit. The power lead is on a different angle and gets close to the hot side cooler pipe, but mine doesn't seem to be an issue as yet, wouldn't be hard to insulate the wire better though, or just tape it down.

I am interested to see if the VQ35 AFM will work too, as long as the voltage/airflow curve is similar it would be a great upgrade for those of us blowing AFM's constantly. I have new plugs in stock for them, and if you are tuning the car it probably wouldn't matter, but if the curve is out the stock ecu may not like it. Just need to spin a stock Stagea up on the dyno after fitting one before I can recommend them.

will VQ35 AFM work with VQ25 stock ECU? I want to get stronger AFM with stock ECU, LOL

will VQ35 AFM work with VQ25 stock ECU? I want to get stronger AFM with stock ECU, LOL

Not sure Yang, need to swap AFM's on the dyno and check out the afr's on boost. The low end will sort itself out using the o2 sensor.

Looking at the power the VQ35 afm's flow, they should be pretty close.

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 8 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
4 hours ago, White_Stag said:

Hi guys does anyone have parts numbers for Rocker cover gaskets and seal for back of oil cooler. I'm having slight oil leaks.

 

Thank you!

http://jp-carparts.com/nissan/partlist.php?maker=nissan&type=153&cartype=7&fig=111&page=3

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jack the back of the car up, pull that wheel off, pull that sensor out, and put a bore scope into the hole to inspect the outer casing, see if anything looks damaged before you pull the whole thing apart.
    • Ergh... So I pulled the speed sensor out again and the tip was shiny so I think it's rubbing the bearing. The bearing contains the magnets for the speed sensor so I think when the first sensor broke it damaged the magnet ring on the bearing.  This is just a Google image, but there is a hole going to the bearing. So when the tip broke off the old sensor I'm guessing it fouled the bearing... As the magnet is only protected by a plastic cover it would be easy to damage it. So I guess I'm doing a bearing again.   
    • My thinking is that if the O2 sensor is shot then your entire above described experience is pure placebo.
    • Here is the mess that I made. That filler there was successful in filling dents in that area. But in the middle area. I can feel dents. And I've gone ocer it multiple times with filler. And the filler is no longer there because i accidently sanded it away. I've chased my tail on this job but this is something else lol. So I'm gonna attempt filler one more time and if it doesn't work I'll just high fill primer the door and see where the issues are because guidecoat is of no use atm.
    • Ok, so I think I sort of figured out where I went wrong. So I definitely overthinked it, and I over sanded, which is probably a large part of the problem. to fix it, I ended up tapping some spots that were likely to be high, made them low, filled them in, and I tackled small sections at a time, and it feels a lot better.    I think what confused me as well is you have the bare metal, and some spots darker and some are lighter, and when I run my finger across it, it' would feel like it's a low spot, but I think it's just a transition in different texture from metal to body filler.    When your finger's sliding on the body filler, and crosses over to the bare metal, going back and forth, it feels like it's a low spot. So I kept putting filler there and sanding, but I think it was just a transition in texture, nothing to do with the low or high spot. But the panel's feels a lot better, and I'm just going to end up priming it, and then I'll block it after with guide coat.   Ended up wasting just about all of my filler on this damn door lol  
×
×
  • Create New...