Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Gtst Series 2 Track Build

Adz2332
 Share

Recommended Posts

Adz2332 Grand Master

Adz2332

Posted
Posted

Hi all,

Well I caught the track / drags / hill climb bug! And no matter how hard I tried it wouldn’t go away.

So instead of wrecking my 33 GTR I decided to find a cheap alternative.
Yes i know people have said im doing it wrong, track the GTR and use the GTST as the daily but my thinking is the gtst wont be as expensive to fix and maintain as the GTR.

I came across a midnight purple series2 R33 40th anniversary that had been defected.

Very neat, very straight and almost standard. Even the interior was very neat. What it was defected for was rubbish, almost too nice to destroy.

Here it is next to its bigger brother

382732_10152860168465215_658209033_n_zps

378142_10152860170380215_402905547_n_zps

20130527_080652_zps04ffa3d5.jpg

I forgot to take a pic of the inside before i started to strip it.

Going to strip it back to metal and once i can work out what and where half the wires run to, rewire the rear of the car.

Pics of starting to strip

20130530_221034_zpsc14849b9.jpg

20130530_221027_zps8ba3e681.jpg

20130530_221022_zpsda54c5d8.jpg

And now the mess in my shed!

20130530_220942_zps52a3c038.jpg

I decided the 40th anniversary front bar was in way to good of nick to destroy! Hadnt been cut no cracks etc.

So ive removed it. Unsure of what bar to put back yet

20130603_165329_zps6474557e.jpg

Heres her currently with her face off

20130602_185347_zps14bd6a1e.jpg

And thats where im up to after a week and a bit of owning it.

The short term plans are to finish stripping the interior, get rid of the sound deadener and try and work out what the wiring does running down the sides of the cars interior. Then remove most and re wire etc. Something tells me im going to hate doing it :/ / getting it to work at all!

And winter can feel free to piss off!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/426393-r33-gtst-series-2-track-build/
Share on other sites
  • Replies 121
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Adz2332
Adz2332

Few more pics of the progress Gets a tune wed so will post results to Interier almost done. Slicks fitted on the rear and front runners with spacers up front. G4+ link computer in just needs a ti

Adz2332
Adz2332

couple more pics tuning as we speak

timmy_89
timmy_89

Cage looks great.

Posted Images

Adz2332 Grand Master

Adz2332

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks mate.

No problems ran well very clean very straight good paint no dents. Even the interior was good.

It was defected tho. But if I spent less then a 1000 it would get put back on the road. Bought it for 3900

paulR32gtr Mentor

paulR32gtr

Posted
Posted

Try BOC gases for dry ice. It's definitely the easiest way for the majority, have tried a heat gun and it gets really messy.

Some of the pads are made of something different like the ones either side of your gear stick in the pic. The dry ice doesn't work on those.

If you can get your hands on a power chisel it will get the other stuff off no sweat.

Once trick for a good job is if the dry ice is frozen and not coming off with gentle persuasion, there is usually some glue / sealer in there. Go for the power chisel on those spots rather than going nuts with a hammer trying to crack it.

paulR32gtr Mentor

paulR32gtr

Posted
Posted

... and there is no way around it - cleaning it up afterwards takes ages - carby cleaner works the best I have found - about 10 cans of it. Not sure about long term health effects though!

Otherwise just do what you can and paint over the rest.

Adz2332 Grand Master

Adz2332

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks mate, im hopefully finishing up removing stuff this long weekend. Then will get dry ice the following weekend hopefully.

Im really not looking forward to it as im pretty fussy in general.

I think a tradie mate of mine has a power chiesl will give him a buzz

Adz2332 Grand Master

Adz2332

Posted
  • Author
Posted

With the long weekend done and dusted i didnt get as much done as i would have liked...

But the aircon is finally all out! Inside and under the bonnet. Will admit it took longer and harder then id like to admit.

Also removed the alarm.

post-33454-0-24918500-1370915176_thumb.jpg

post-33454-0-31287700-1370915197_thumb.jpg

  • 5 months later...
Adz2332 Grand Master

Adz2332

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Not much of an update, been to busy finishing my gtr!

Bought a gtr ztune bonnet and do luck bonnet lip for the track car, test fit on the GTR and fits amazing! Surprised actually!

Was going to leave it on the gtr it fit that well, but weight saving would be small if any plus unwanted daily driving attention!

Also added a $2 body kit just for shits and giggles.... and yes was all for $2! Will now remove the OEM GTR spoiler and find something else....

At this stage i think ive just destroyed a neat series 2! Long way to go!

post-33454-0-75517000-1386557663_thumb.jpg

post-33454-0-28237000-1386557678_thumb.jpg

Adz2332 Grand Master

Adz2332

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Continued the work on the car...

Started removing all wires that arent needed.. not quite half way through. long way to go!

1467212_619547654748030_1296171376_n_zps

Also will be removing the OEM gtr spoiler... have undone all the bolts but its still stuck on nice and tight.

Guessing its just stickoflex holding it on??

1451442_10153596740440215_1458560811_n_z

brentos_mentos Collaborator

brentos_mentos

Posted
Posted

If it's a factory GT-R spoiler on a factory boot and hasn't been removed then it's just very stick double sided tape. Best method is to use fishing line and run that through (you have to go around the bolts and little plastic clips though).

Adz2332 Grand Master

Adz2332

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Was bored last night so did this.... lol not sure i like it at all... un-tinted yet but dont think ill go any further anyway....

So an hour to destroy a perfectly good tail light lol..... seems like the way its going... 3 to 6 months destroying a perfectly neat series 2!!! haha

1390735_10153627884870215_149293855_n_zp

1521864_10153627885115215_1650278524_n_z

1515037_10153627884985215_1995270513_n_z

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
×
×
  • Create New...