Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 5 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

did the hill climb. was a blast. total handful....

up in the air of what to do.

theres no low to mid range then huge top end for a second and change gear.

do i change the rear housing from a .82 to a .63 rear housing?

or wait till i put a 25/30 in it and hopefully that fixes it?

Before spending money unplug vct solenoid and see if it makes things worse. If it stays the same get vct workimg

yer im going to have to.. just irritates me i have to do that after sending it to 2 different workshops, when i suck at mechanics!

http://s1196.photobucket.com/user/adz2332/media/Mobile%20Uploads/received_10208902650220669_zpsigtbb7kk.mp4.html

video of the hill climb...

doesnt do how steep and tight the turns were justice! plus its barely a car width wide!

  • 4 months later...

Bit of an update.

Decided to paint the car. currently in a million bits. Have an rb30 also half pulled down.

Asked around, what is the biggest stupidest wing for a 33? BCL was the answer..... as you can tell my dad in the back ground was as impressed with it.... good for a laugh! 

13557911_10157144131195215_3409995096213

13626637_10157144130440215_8579717224417

 

Prepping

13627160_10157140331440215_8641202146681

My brothers r31 but its the colour im also doing my r33. hard to get a good pic of it in the shade

14203217_10157431310855215_2974133742019

14212109_10157431310665215_7376160523224

 

Soo as for the interior, i let my much younger brother loose to decide the colour.... he came back with the phantom purple from the falcon BF era i think..... I didnt care so i said go for it. sprayed it on the under side of his boot.... and the result was

14212661_10157431104530215_3209309104960

I didnt mind it to much.... but he said its not finished and i had to go away until it was done.... i then come back to this 

14191893_10157431104635215_2434744404366

14212176_10157431104750215_2695265642969

Im unsure how i feel about this... but hes adamant that its what my interior is going to be.... not only that its all been bought! lol Leason to you all dont let your younger siblings pick colours! 

  • 3 weeks later...
57 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Don't go 0.63 rear, yuck.

 

I was defiantly considering it after seeing a s14 with almost my exact same mods on a rb25 make 280kws, and boy was its acceleration excellent and response was awesome.

But im building a rb30 / 25 so hopefully that will put the response issues to bed 

 

14519923_10157584623275215_7006899475110

14606348_10157584623385215_3686929384467

  • Like 1

Thanks mate. im happy with it being my first time doing it. theres a couple things ill touch up and fix after next weekends oznat thingo.

And if anyone is in adelaide and is going to the oznats, ill be there in this and my torana. plus my bro in his 31 (same colour) feel free to say hi! 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...