Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Non Turbo Ignition Problem/engine Splutter Need Help Please

IMPORTS ONLY

By IMPORTS ONLY,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

SargeRX8 Grand Master

SargeRX8

Posted
Posted

Auxiliary Air Control valve. From those sounds, I'd be looking at a fuel related issue. If cleaning the AAC didn't fix it, something tells me it might be fuel. Its hard to tell from the video but it sounds like its lean popping and not enough fuel at that RPM.

Ive had a number of coilpacks fail on me and most times they never presented a symptom at idle or free revving. I had a failing fuel pump. Car was hard to start, you couldn't free rev it, let alone drive the car without it gurgling, popping and carrying on.

IMPORTS ONLY Community Regular

IMPORTS ONLY

Posted
  • Author
Posted

cleaning out the AAC didnt change a thing, it was pretty clean anyway.

and i haven't tried another AFM yet, is it worth buying one to make sure the current AFM is not at fault?

and what do you mean by solder fixing my current one?

and i recently replaced the fuel pump but just with a generic after market one could that be causing the issue?

mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

Did the problem only start after the new pump, or was it there before?

If it's popping at light throttle only then I doubt it will be pump related as it would get worse the further up the rev range.

I'd put it down to either an intake leak somewhere, such as a vacuum hose or gasket. There is always the chance that it is related to the tps sensor or crank angle sensor or even knock sensors though. Unfortunately, it really is a bit of a case of keep trying stuff until something fixes it though. You could try cleaning the throttle body and see if that helps at all.

I'm about to go through a similar battle with my Commodore. It has a misfire when just off idle (such as creeping along in slow traffic). I'm going to start by cleaning the throttle body, aac and intake (already done plugs at last service and cleaned afm)

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

and i recently replaced the fuel pump but just with a generic after market one could that be causing the issue?

Yes, some pumps don't like the low power the stock fuel computer puts out at cruise and idle. You can try running a temporary direct power feed, or just do the fuel pump rewire with a relay to prove the fault.

IMPORTS ONLY Community Regular

IMPORTS ONLY

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thinking back the issue was there before anything was replaced and its what initially made me start replacing coil packs and everything else,

my next step is looking for a vacuum leak as that is very possible

  • 2 weeks later...
Charles89 Grand Master

Charles89

Posted
Posted

Maybe try resetting your ECU to see if it improves anything? As after reset, your ECU will be learning all the new parts you've replaced with?

Charles89 Grand Master

Charles89

Posted
Posted

Or just do a search on SAU on how to reset ECU, it can be done by putting a wire through 2 ports in the consult plug, saves you from disconnecting battery and having to set the radio again

IMPORTS ONLY Community Regular

IMPORTS ONLY

Posted
  • Author
Posted

so after all that chasing i just put 20ml of ignition cleaner in to 3/4 a tank and immediately as soon as i left the petty station i noticed the problem was gone, took it for a good drive and noticed nothing wrong and gave it a little rev in the driveway to see if it was jumping like before and nope clean revs all the way through!

im still unsure of why it was so instant, wouldn't it take a bit of driving to remove build up ect?

hopefully the problem doesn't return, im still going to reset the ecu and ill daily drive it for now just to see how it goes

IMPORTS ONLY Community Regular

IMPORTS ONLY

Posted
  • Author
Posted

so on second start after resetting the ecu problem is back

heres a better video with clearer sound of the splutter

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AkXuTjv5BQw&feature=youtu.be

any last ideas before i head to a mechanic?

  • 2 weeks later...
sleptema Proficient

sleptema

Posted
Posted

The ecu fixed itself - it learned what the problem was and it was happy. Then you reset it. Now it is sad again. Needs more hugs.

so on second start after resetting the ecu problem is back

heres a better video with clearer sound of the splutter

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AkXuTjv5BQw&feature=youtu.be

any last ideas before i head to a mechanic?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Piggaz
      Borg Warner EFR Series Turbo's V 2.0

      By Piggaz · Posted

      A few things that seem a bit off here. - why is there 2 BOV’s?  - the turbo smart BOV on the compressor housing, is it turned up ALL the way? I have seen this become an issue on old man Pete’s car. It would push open and recirc, turbo speed would rise and the boost pressure would do weird things. - stock head? Does that include springs? - tried a different MAC valve? Is it plumbed correctly?
    • GTSBoy
      Borg Warner EFR Series Turbo's V 2.0

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Photo of manifold showing gate location? I mean, it's 6Boost, so we probably shouldn't be worrying, but always wroth knowing what the layout is. Plumbed back to atmosphere? Or into the dump?
    • Murray_Calavera
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Yes correct. Also, I'd avoid applying it to soft paint (however I doubt you'll ever have to deal with it in practice). So any paint that hasn't fully hardened, could be a 1k paint that never fully hardened or it could be a 2k paint that was laid down thick and hasn't yet fully hardened. 
    • kevboost7
      One Headlight isn't working - Driver Side Fuse Keeps blowing

      By kevboost7 · Posted

      Wow, i wish i found this sooner.
    • Borci88
      Borg Warner EFR Series Turbo's V 2.0

      By Borci88 · Posted

      Bit of an update to this one. Having some issues on the dyno that held us back (boost spiking) and I want to pass some info over you guys and see what you think is wrong with my setup. The current readout on this dyno is 462rwkw on a low reading dyno so keep in mind it is a real world 500rwkw setup on a hub dyno. Don't read into the power figure too much as a sign of the issue. The short and curly of it is: 2.8 Litre Racepace build RB25 NEO N/A Head with VCT (internally standard however ) Borgwarner EFR 8474  Turbosmart 50mm Straight Gate + Mac valve 6Boost Manifold 4" dump to full 4" exhaust (nil restrictions) Wastegate plumbed back in and all angles in the exhaust system are acceptable and not too sharp. GFB SV52 BOV in cooler piping  Turbosmart BOV in EFR Housing   The issue we are having is it comes onto full boost for example at 4000rpm and spikes to 24/25psi, before dropping down to 17psi before slowly rising back up to the target boost of 23psi. It was extremely uncontrollable and the tuner actually had to ramp in boost progrssively with each 1000rpm on each boost setting we selected to try and reduce the amount of spiking. Sometimes we would see a drop of 10psi from the peak at the beginning of the run, to the low, until it took the next 500-1000rpm to stabilise back up to the target boost. The tuner is pretty confident that the straight gate is just a poorly designed product and leaks too much boost upon cracking the gate open and theres no way to fix it other than going to a poppet valve. He's also confient theres no ignition breakdown or floating valves. The fueling is extremely stable as well. Turbo speed is somewhere around the 109,000rpm area. The spanner in the works for me is that prior to this Borgwarner and StraightGate, the car was tuned on -5 twins at a diferent tuner, and he also had issues controlling the boost with it spiking around the same rpm range, so to me this sounds like the same issue and it can't be anything on the turbo side as this was all changed and I think the behaviour is extremely similar, if not the same. We also removed the mac valve and did a run on wastegate pressure and it still spiked and had the same behaviour. My thoughts on possibilities are: Boost Leak VCT Cam Gear isn't reliably activating consistently - (On this however, we did a run with the VCT disabled and the boost still spiked) Turbosmart BOV is not handling the boost? However this seems unlikely to not be able to handle 20psi. I have a couple of logs that I can't make sense of if anybody knows how to read them and can obtain further logs of other parameters if they are not enough, happy to pay for anyones time. The dyno readout with the power figure is the most recent last week. The other picture is from two weeks prior to that where we couldn't break 400kw (we removed the cat), however the issue of the boost control persisted. @Lithium @Piggaz @burn4005 @GTSBoy @discopotato03 I've tagged those that were quite active in recent pages here, no disrespect to those that know turbos well but I missed tagging. Cheers 
×
×
  • Create New...