Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Auxiliary Air Control valve. From those sounds, I'd be looking at a fuel related issue. If cleaning the AAC didn't fix it, something tells me it might be fuel. Its hard to tell from the video but it sounds like its lean popping and not enough fuel at that RPM.

Ive had a number of coilpacks fail on me and most times they never presented a symptom at idle or free revving. I had a failing fuel pump. Car was hard to start, you couldn't free rev it, let alone drive the car without it gurgling, popping and carrying on.

cleaning out the AAC didnt change a thing, it was pretty clean anyway.

and i haven't tried another AFM yet, is it worth buying one to make sure the current AFM is not at fault?

and what do you mean by solder fixing my current one?

and i recently replaced the fuel pump but just with a generic after market one could that be causing the issue?

Did the problem only start after the new pump, or was it there before?

If it's popping at light throttle only then I doubt it will be pump related as it would get worse the further up the rev range.

I'd put it down to either an intake leak somewhere, such as a vacuum hose or gasket. There is always the chance that it is related to the tps sensor or crank angle sensor or even knock sensors though. Unfortunately, it really is a bit of a case of keep trying stuff until something fixes it though. You could try cleaning the throttle body and see if that helps at all.

I'm about to go through a similar battle with my Commodore. It has a misfire when just off idle (such as creeping along in slow traffic). I'm going to start by cleaning the throttle body, aac and intake (already done plugs at last service and cleaned afm)

and i recently replaced the fuel pump but just with a generic after market one could that be causing the issue?

Yes, some pumps don't like the low power the stock fuel computer puts out at cruise and idle. You can try running a temporary direct power feed, or just do the fuel pump rewire with a relay to prove the fault.

thinking back the issue was there before anything was replaced and its what initially made me start replacing coil packs and everything else,

my next step is looking for a vacuum leak as that is very possible

  • 2 weeks later...

Maybe try resetting your ECU to see if it improves anything? As after reset, your ECU will be learning all the new parts you've replaced with?

Or just do a search on SAU on how to reset ECU, it can be done by putting a wire through 2 ports in the consult plug, saves you from disconnecting battery and having to set the radio again

so after all that chasing i just put 20ml of ignition cleaner in to 3/4 a tank and immediately as soon as i left the petty station i noticed the problem was gone, took it for a good drive and noticed nothing wrong and gave it a little rev in the driveway to see if it was jumping like before and nope clean revs all the way through!

im still unsure of why it was so instant, wouldn't it take a bit of driving to remove build up ect?

hopefully the problem doesn't return, im still going to reset the ecu and ill daily drive it for now just to see how it goes

so on second start after resetting the ecu problem is back

heres a better video with clearer sound of the splutter

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AkXuTjv5BQw&feature=youtu.be

any last ideas before i head to a mechanic?

  • 2 weeks later...

The ecu fixed itself - it learned what the problem was and it was happy. Then you reset it. Now it is sad again. Needs more hugs.

so on second start after resetting the ecu problem is back

heres a better video with clearer sound of the splutter

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AkXuTjv5BQw&feature=youtu.be

any last ideas before i head to a mechanic?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you have a RB25DET NEO AWD motor, you will need this: https://www.hioctanedirect.com/ASR-RB26-RWD-Street-Comp-6.5L-Sump-Suit-R32/33/34-and-VL It is made for the AWD motor, but makes it fit a RWD setup and gives you a new pickup. Just one thing, the pickup sits quite forward, compared to a conventional RB25DET RWD motor. This may or may not have contributed to my previous AWD -> RWD shitting the bed at the track.
    • My car is also flex tuned. It's worth mentioning it (the LS1 ECU) has a 1D table for E85 addition and just uses the ethanol stoich part as the second point of reference. It also as a 3D timing map for Ethanol adjustment. You would think this isn't enough but it works pretty damn well. That said, I wouldn't want it in turbo application. It's like lifting non-natty, or taking meth. It gets you unrealistic results that break down more things going forward. If people used it to make the same amount of power they do on 98 then it'd be one thing. But people use it, crank it up to eleventy million PSI, it doesn't knock - but it pushes the point of failure to another, more expensive thing to break. Every time I see someone make 280kw on 98 and 350kw on E85 on the same equipment I just cry a bit and really wish they would just stay on 98 in that exact scenario. It's bad for you. 
    • This is kind of what I was thinking but the temp sender wire and the two pressure switch wires run through the starter subharnes and I eliminated the two pressure switch wires completely.  @GTSBoy I have a can gauge with unusually bright warnings should the oil pressure fall so the factory light isn't needed. I need to dig out my wiring diagram and see if I can sort this out.
    • It's a valid point. And it is doable with the Nistune. But I'm not inclined to flex it the way Nistune does - certainly not on a Neo ECU. They're already pernickety enough to tune just one one fuel. And of course, I'm not that interested in putting in a Link or similar, on a daily. With the stock ECU, stock looking turbo, etc etc, I still stand a chance of surviving a run-in with the plod. Last time it went over the pits (which was for the transplant, for because of a run-in with the plod), the Nistuned ECU did not even raise an eyebrow. They want to see a stock ECU running the engine, and they are happy to see it do so without the check engine light** on. Never mind that the Nistune is necessary to make the stock ECU work in a different chassis without ABS, TCS, etc. **And they actually provoke the CEL to come on by disconnecting the AFM, to prove that the globe hasn't been pulled!
    • This is why you flex fuel it...
×
×
  • Create New...