Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It was way too low! Scraping the leading edge the whole way around the track.

We modded and lifted it 15mm or so. Just scraps a little under big load.

I went out without the splitter in the first session. Cold, fresh tyres. Did a high 1.35 on the last lap (6). I'd say with that setup it would be a mid 1.34 I'd say. The splitter is amazing under brakes and on loaded turn in. There is much more time in it.

The fastest lap was terrible. With the setup as is, 1.32 no worries.

Still getting used to this no ABS thing. Plus added aero mods.

Video to come. But the fastest lap was well into the session, generally fastest lap is first or second hot lap.

Did i miss it in the thread.....why no ABS? Is it because your still running the non-ABS diff.....or you just decided to go no ABS from now on?

Man its crazy to see all the cars/changes that have happened over the past 3 or so years summed up in a few pages!

Nice work with the win at WInton!

Cheers,

Dave

nice feature!

good to see the test day went well, do did you notice much difference with the splitter off with the front bar all sealed up? or does it need work in conjunction with the splitter?

Did i miss it in the thread.....why no ABS? Is it because your still running the non-ABS diff.....or you just decided to go no ABS from now on?

Man its crazy to see all the cars/changes that have happened over the past 3 or so years summed up in a few pages!

Nice work with the win at WInton!

Cheers,

Dave

Diff is still in pieces, still using brothers non ABS housing diff.

nice feature!

good to see the test day went well, do did you notice much difference with the splitter off with the front bar all sealed up? or does it need work in conjunction with the splitter?

Can't say I felt a difference.

MAD for taking away the ABS ! :)

I read in a jap magazine that the AD08R are the same compound as the AO50...differences are tread compound and the changes required to allow for smaller tread blocks. So should be pretty close to AO50 if setup right

mmm, not sure about that. It's a similar compound, it's not the same. They tyre doesn't go into a marshmallow state once warm like the 50's do.

Mate, 10/10 for effort and commitment!

Couldn't believe it when I read 'then this happened'... for the 2nd time and then you tagged the wall again! But hats off to ya and clearly paying off.

Car is looking pretty good and getting very serious. Get as much power out of that donk as you can as it makes a big difference at EC as you know!

Good luck at WTAC :)

It was way too low! Scraping the leading edge the whole way around the track.

We modded and lifted it 15mm or so. Just scraps a little under big load.

I went out without the splitter in the first session. Cold, fresh tyres. Did a high 1.35 on the last lap (6). I'd say with that setup it would be a mid 1.34 I'd say. The splitter is amazing under brakes and on loaded turn in. There is much more time in it.

The fastest lap was terrible. With the setup as is, 1.32 no worries.

Still getting used to this no ABS thing. Plus added aero mods.

Video to come. But the fastest lap was well into the session, generally fastest lap is first or second hot lap.

any sign of said vid?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Fark what are the changes of that snapping like that, clean. Nek minnit, custom radiator goes in, with built in oil cooler like those discontinued PWR ones from yesterdeacades ago
    • I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
×
×
  • Create New...