Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

sound deadener delete.

we also remove everything under the dash. though left the firewall heat shielding.

IMG_1973.jpg

IMG_1976.jpg

This stuff at the back was too hard to get too and I didnt have a heat gun. So I left it, will get back to it another day.

IMG_1977.jpg

  • Like 1

next up, more lightening.

IMG_1951.jpg

With the boot skin and hinges and lock gone. Bonnet pins now hold it all in place.

Best way to line up the holes on the bonnet, drill it from the inside...

Rear wiper motor and gear removed here as well and the radio antenna motor.

532520_10151740922527704_216824329_n.jpg

You can see the gurney fitting here and the bonnet pins in the boot. The oe lock hole was used to another bonnet pin on a bracket to hold everything down.

The gurney is just a piece of 10mm angled alloy from bunnings with slots cut in it allowing it to be bent into shape.

d3dfwfasd.png

  • Like 1

This time around NSW are using the full WTAC rule book. so back to street tyres.

But! Yokohama don't have any 285 or 295's available.

So the only other option was Hankooks, z222.

In 285 they actually measure 295 and are huge on 18x10's. And Hankook be smoking as they are a 35 profile as well, very tall!

I'm working in Sydney at this stage (the day before nsw time attack). so my brother and dad are running around getting the car ready back in melbs.

i meet them in goulburn for the event.

IMG_2001.jpg

cool. yep i removed that stuff too. and if you happen to go down that road of lexan, i saved 2.5kg each door, and about 4.5kg's in the rear screen. another 2.5kg's (each) in instrusion bars if you havent removed them, ofcourse if its still a regular streeter maybe leave them there. love the car mate, keep it up.

I've seen this car a few times at various events and I am absolutely astounded/impressed at your Winton time.

I'm not saying the car isn't well sorted, but I am definitely saying that is a crazy fast time for a car with the power this has. Which is a very good indicator of how good your driving is.

Clearly all that track time has payed off and I am going about my car the entirely wrong way!

Great build thread dude. I'll come and say hi the next time I see you at Winton/DECA.

I was thinking the same thing Dan, I'm always thinking the car is holding me back, which it probably is a little but not as much as my driving.

If John can cut those lap times with the set up and power he has then there is definitely room for improvement in my driving skills.

Great work John!

My new plan is to get my car running and then let John drive it and claim the lap time as my own...

Easiest time I'll ever cut from a PB :D

More than happy to. :yes:

I was thinking the same thing Dan, I'm always thinking the car is holding me back, which it probably is a little but not as much as my driving.

If John can cut those lap times with the set up and power he has then there is definitely room for improvement in my driving skills.

Great work John!

There is always room for improvement, whether that is 0.2 seconds or 2 seconds. It's just chipping away and becoming more confident, having fun also helps!

rear seat/shelf sound deadening, fill plastic shopping bags with dry ice, race tape bags of ice into position leave for 10-15mins remove tape/bags and remove deadening with ease.

i haven't been able to get along to any days as yet this year, the progress on your car looks great!

rear seat/shelf sound deadening, fill plastic shopping bags with dry ice, race tape bags of ice into position leave for 10-15mins remove tape/bags and remove deadening with ease.

i haven't been able to get along to any days as yet this year, the progress on your car looks great!

After spending a cold few hours bashing it off the ground, tunnel and boot I was over it...lol

By the time someone told me about that method, the ice was gone.

Heat gun did an ok job, was actually present as it was freezing outside and nice and warm in the car with the heat gun.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And one last super random thought, I remember when SAUNSW had a dinner with Alan Heaphy, and another with Fred Gibson there was talk of the R32 GTR cast alloy uprights failing in racing, and one of the things Fred did when they had to add weight to the vehicle was taken the failing alloy uprights, and have them made of steel. Does anyone remember back to 1990/1991/1992 and WHAT was failing in the front hubs/uprights?
    • If you truly want to know how the original failed though, was it a factory defect possibly etc, send it off for investigation. Would probably cost a shit tonne.   The ones that you need to win lotto for, unless you have a good reason for that part to be bolt on, I'd probably roll with getting a few small stitch welds carefully put in place as an extra safety factor once everything is all torqued up tight
    • Are you sure? Because I wouldn't necessarily be. Do we even know the material they've made the new uprights from?   Looking at the fractures in the earlier pics, it does to me look like both a twisting, and levering upward action doing the damage, so you're hoping for both compression, and tension. Depending on the bolts, they can stretch (even high grade bolts will) and now you're hoping for the threads themself not to stretch, as if they do, bye bye mating surfaces holding together, hello bolts now going into shear.
    • Lets say I wanted to buy this, specifically for this purpose. How do I actually perform the function. Can I still buy a Consult-1? Am I about to be burned by the fact my car is a 2000 model Series 2 R34 and thus will be some stupid other system? Do I just need this -> https://obd2australia.com.au/product/nissan-consult-14-pin-to-usb-ddl-diagnostic-interface-with-ftdi-ft232r-chip/ And with what software?
    • That's probably OK. That's a face to face compression joint between two surfaces with the clamping load provided by those bolts. So.... it's unlikely that the bolts will end up feeling that load in shear, unless the clamping surfaces are not large enough, bolts not got enough tension on them, etc etc to prevent the two faces from moving wrt each other. Which... I would hope the designers have considered, seeing as it's probably one of the most important things the upright has to do apart from resist collapsing in its own right. But yes, it would definitely be worth asking them what their safety factor on that part of the design was. I tend to think that the casting, being a casting, is not necessarily the strongest bit of material in the world. It's about an inch square, and when you think about the loads that are being put into it, you have to wonder what safety factor the Nissan boys (and every other OEM engineer who has designed all the millions of other uprights that look essentially the same) used to account for defective casting, aging, severe impacts on the wheel, etc etc. 
×
×
  • Create New...