Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

however both Mafia and I aren't killing them through sensor positioning.. they're killing themselves... it's a known fact Innovate likes munching sensors.

The sensors are okay for me. Its the POS controller. Both of my LM2 units died. Sensors tested okay

Not suggesting that was the case at all, just clarifying where to position the sensor for maximum life and accuracy, you don't want it getting too hot and you don't want it getting wet from condensation.

I put mine where the cat would be. only been in use for 10-11 months. Was verified as accurate when new on dyno. Had car on dyno for touch up the other day and gauge was out by 0.8 afr. Showing leaner than actual. In fairness I haven't calibrated it in about 5-6 months, laziness. I will re calibrate it soon and see if it improves. Other than that, no issues but once it did get stuck in heating mode, lucky I realised and shut it down and it was fine after a restart. I have a suspicion that if I didn't catch it in time it would've fried itself.

Me and another tuner friend have been doing experiments with widebands to understand them better and see which perform the best.

Just remember that some are slow and some are fast.

ALM was meant to be the fastest, but I do not like the idea of overseas support. Techedge seem to be okay, but I need one to test.

We had 3 in a gas chamber - Autronic, Innovate LM2, and a ALM with a screen. The autronic was the best but doesn't support 4.9 sensors. (They are also expensive!) The others were using the 4.9 sensors.

When the AFRs go under 10, there are so fairly big discrepancies!

Also at leaner mixtures above 15:1

Be very mindful on picking a wideband. Personally, at this stage I think Techedge is the best, but I want to buy one and try it out.

So when you say that the controller cooks the sensor, do you literally mean that the heating control destroys the sensor? If its a heating logic issue, hopefully its something that can be remedied by a firmware update, rather than being a hardware issue.

Its the high current to heat the sensor that would be killing them. The sensor is connected and controlled through the gauge, so if it is outputting a large current output for too long, it all goes through the gauge, and high current = heat.

I installed an MTX-L to mine not long ago. So far so good. Quicker response than the AFM and was much easier to calibrate to the Link

I have an Innovate LC-2 connected to my Adaptronic and displayed via a custom Raspberri PI solution. The sensor is located in the recommended position about 30cm in front of my cat.

The LC-2 semi-regularly fails to acquire lock (the status LED stays flashing in warm-up mode) for an entire drive, or will occasionally find a lock after driving for 30-45 minutes.

Other times, when it's working properly, I can start the car from dead cold in the morning and it has acquired lock and showing me AFRs in about 10 seconds.

I would not buy one again, the reliability is poor. This kind of thing should work 100% of the time. I emailed Innovate to ask them about it and was ignored. No vendor support = why bother.

  • 2 weeks later...

happen to share the raspberri display ? I want to replace my non working clock and put a screen there for the wb gauge, but they dont make anything commercial that fits.

I have an Innovate LC-2 connected to my Adaptronic and displayed via a custom Raspberri PI solution. The sensor is located in the recommended position about 30cm in front of my cat.

The LC-2 semi-regularly fails to acquire lock (the status LED stays flashing in warm-up mode) for an entire drive, or will occasionally find a lock after driving for 30-45 minutes.

Other times, when it's working properly, I can start the car from dead cold in the morning and it has acquired lock and showing me AFRs in about 10 seconds.

I would not buy one again, the reliability is poor. This kind of thing should work 100% of the time. I emailed Innovate to ask them about it and was ignored. No vendor support = why bother.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is the GTR fuel pump. Yellow shows 12V, orange shows earth. The ECU provides the earth to activate the fuel pump relay. The ECU side of teh relay will pull low when the ECU activates. This is the RB20 fuel pump. Almost the same, but a little simpler. You can see I indicated (above) where the 12V line goes down to the RB20 diagram on the overall diagram, whch shows both RB26 and RB20. This is where I show it coming in on the RB20 diagram below. You can see that the dropping resistor is handled differently. When the fuel pump control is not providing earth to the pump, the pump earths through the dropping resistor and thus runs at lower voltage (some is wasted over the resistor) and runs slower. I showed that "not 12V and not quite earth" portion of the wiring in a paler orange. The rest of the wiring that I did not colour on that little section below the pump would be orange when the fuel pump coontroller is providing earth. This drop is handled inside the fuel pump controller in the GTR. Regardless, you can see where 12V is supposed to be, where earth is supposed to be. The key on prime is via the ECU providing the pump for only a few seconds the switching off. You should be able to see that happen.
    • Yeah so when you turn key to IGN the fuel pump should run for a few seconds. If you find the fuel pump relay (and have a multimeter, and a second person) to can check the relay inputs.  One trigger pin should be either fully earthed  The other trigger pin should get 12v from the ECU for say 3 seconds when you turn key to IGN, and at all times that key is at START (note, I said this from memory, it may be the other way around, ie one pin always has IGN 12v and the earth has continuity to earth when you turn the key) One Pin should have a good battery voltage The last pin goes to the fuel pump + Also note that if the power to the relay is good, and the relay is working, it is worth checking the pump has a good earth too. There is a computer in the standard system that increases the earth resistance to slow down the pump when not required, pretty old school and it may have failed
    • All this talk about fuel and fancy ECUs, meanwhile my poor old R32 has neither.... When the ignition is turned on, should there be power running o the fuel pump constantly or just for the few seconds it usually takes to prime the pump? About to go have another look at it, have watched some YouTube vids on how to use a  multimeter and looked at some wiring diagrams but really have NFI what I'm looking for because electricity is invisible  
    • Yuh....but weren't all the supertourers, except maybe the Audis, FWD? I don't recall any of the others being AWD.
    • They ran them in Oz Super Tourers too https://www.supertouringregister.com/register/vehicle/212/ (I'm so old I remember racing with Matthew Fox) They ran them in Oz Super Tourers too https://www.supertouringregister.com/register/vehicle/212/ (I'm so old I remember racing with Matthew Fox)
×
×
  • Create New...