Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 1 month later...
  • 1 year later...

well if anyone of the NEO ppl were hesitating about doing it, there is no excuse now

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-3-Wire-Universal-Oxygen-Sensor-O2-Easy-Fit-Kit-/120737660086?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c1c867cb6#ht_3120wt_1244

i bought the r33 one and cut the plug off (tried to be tricky and pull the pins out and swap them but they are slightly bigger in the r33 plug)

wish i had seen this, looks like the same sensor but cheaper again!

with the r33 sensor installed i got under 10l/100kms on the drive from tas-gold coast (yesterday)

Have any more Neo people run these? Looking to potentially buy one as my factory plug on both harness and O2 sensor have melted so would be much easier install with this kit

i was reading this topic the other day was through i would change mine in the stagea.

i change the sensor still dont know if it fix my fuel economy. driving around like normally

and it still used alot of fuel. i got a ngk one from ebay through...

i was reading this topic the other day was through i would change mine in the stagea.

i change the sensor still dont know if it fix my fuel economy. driving around like normally

and it still used alot of fuel. i got a ngk one from ebay through...

That's not too hopeful. I think my current O2 sensor is ok and will be trying to do a direct wire in this arvo but if I have any problems was hoping to grab that ebay one for $40

  • 1 month later...

So I have never had any problems with fuel economy in my car but went and got it tuned today and the tuner actually turned the O2 sensor off because it was going spastic.

He showed me on the computer once the throttle is touched the O2 sensor went from nothing to max voltage straight away and just generally all over the place.

I tried to directly wire my O2 sensor in the other day could this be a stuff up with my wiring?

  • 9 months later...

tested my o2 sensor today, c34 stagea at warm idle to 3-4k revs i saw 0.3 -0.45 while parked. multimeter grounded in rocker cover and positive probe on black wire on o2 which is the thick brown wire on loom.

not sure what i'm looking for to confirm its stuffed other then it not alternating, unless i'm ment to be seeing more then 0.5v with no load parked ?

who can confirm?

^ thanks noted, just not sure if they can be half stuffed or it will work 100% and just not work at all if broke.

might just grab a universal 3 wire sensor from vulture for $40 as they are ment to be changed a bit like spark plugs , i assume the thread on the dump pipe is the same for r32-r34 gtst?

Edited by Dan_J

^ thanks noted, just not sure if they can be half stuffed or it will work 100% and just not work at all if broke.

might just grab a universal 3 wire sensor from vulture for $40 as they are ment to be changed a bit like spark plugs , i assume the thread on the dump pipe is the same for r32-r34 gtst?

R33 and Neo are different

  • 2 weeks later...

^ thanks noted, just not sure if they can be half stuffed or it will work 100% and just not work at all if broke.

might just grab a universal 3 wire sensor from vulture for $40 as they are ment to be changed a bit like spark plugs , i assume the thread on the dump pipe is the same for r32-r34 gtst?

And then pay a little more and get an innovate wideband that has narrowband simulation for your ECU. Win win :)

  • 2 weeks later...

And then pay a little more and get an innovate wideband that has narrowband simulation for your ECU. Win win :)

Johnny are you using your WB as a NB simulator? If so how did you go about wiring it into the computer?

My NB has just blown so I going to use my techedge to simulate, it also has a function where I can alter the lean/ rich points so I can adjust stoich up or down for different fuels, or so I can target a leaner AFR

Wouldn't mind setting it up to hold 16:1 in closed loop, just to get better economy on cruise.

^ hey mate, I disconnected my narrowband in the engine bay and spliced the narrowband output from the innovate straight into the ECU harness.

There's no need to hook up the sensor ground and it worked really well. Not the first car I've done it to also, one thing I've noticed is that it "appears" to hit stoichiometric much quicker than factory narrowband O2s

Give it a crack you can't go wrong, in saying that I'm now running full closed loop fuel control with my wideband (running stand alone now woots)

I usually keep it stoich anything in vacuum up to atmospheric pressure (0.0psi), on cruise I'm a little cheeky and let it sit at 15.2

Best I've gotten out of 50L was 540km with the occasional squirt when I drove to Foster and back on 98 with the AC on most parts

  • 2 weeks later...

So when in closed loop I get a hi reading of 15.23:1 and a low reading of 14.39:1 for and average of 14.8:1

Did a run to the gold coast on the weekend and got 8.9 L/100Km ~ United P100

Might have another play with it and try to get an average closer to 15:1

gallery_89296_5394_98775.jpg

gallery_89296_5394_69245.jpg

Edited by Missileman

^ great job on the economy side - on very load & cruising RPM you could even lean it a a touch close to 15.5 if you're after economy.. however drop back the timing a little so keep the cylinders happy.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...