Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well that upload speed is better than mine...

I'll be on probably before 8PM as well.

Everyone who's jumping on tonight, post your upload speeds. Currently 89cal is host till someone beats him ;P

Wow nice speeds. Looks like your next door to your exchange huh. Edit: ianjb is host

on a completely unrelated topic that i wont say anything more about beyond this post.

You do know that an SEO related link on this forum is doing nothing, if not bad for your SEO?

net cap lifted today. I will try to jump on 8pm. Curious: if private session is up, how to do we join? need to be invited.

+10000 to fistfight rampage. will bring knife and nightstick. (both are 50% of the reason i play GTA5 lol)

net cap lifted today. I will try to jump on 8pm. Curious: if private session is up, how to do we join? need to be invited.

+10000 to fistfight rampage. will bring knife and nightstick. (both are 50% of the reason i play GTA5 lol)

have to get invited

new house being built is plugged into the NBN....yay

anyway on topic, what do people wanna do

freerun rampages

races for lotso cash

well organised missions (fun when your all on the same page but little financial reward)

ect

Still reckon Boneyard survival is the best guaranteed money maker and experience getter. Hide behind shed, pop out shoot 10 waves of piss easy enemies = 20k. Takes about half an hour per survival and you just keep repeating it. You also get fk loads of free guns from it that you can use in freemode, though they disappear when you next log on.

1. Fistfights (separated into weapons/no weapons)

2. Races down the drain with 8 people. mad fun

3. MISSIONS (survival, proper missions)

4. Deathmatches

can't wait!

and yeah birds good point, the first time me and some mates discovered we get to keep the weapons once out of survival, was GOLD!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...