Jump to content
SAU Community

To 30/26 Or Keep The 26?

SIR-JD

By SIR-JD,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 258
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Piggaz
Piggaz

"Rev harder" For a joe blow,average guy, why do you want to spin the engine to the moon and back? It just won't last. Stroker or RB 30 all the way. More twist ... EVERYWHERE!

SimonR32
SimonR32

A SR20 as it would have more torque in the used rev range.

Piggaz
Piggaz

Couldn't be too high, 30's don't rev... Or something

Posted Images

Aggroman Grand Master

Aggroman

Posted
Posted

BAAAAAAHAHAHAHA! :D Just wondering if the T66 might surge making 50psi @ 3000? Maybe I should put a bigger exhaust on to increase lag say something silly like a 3.5" system and bring the turbo on around 1000rpm later? ;)

dont be a top bloke, get a t70, cause that one comes with the compressor maps! cause new turbos suck! why pay all that money on a fancy engine and shit and not get an old turbo!

GTR_JOEY Grand Master

GTR_JOEY

Posted
Posted

dont be a top bloke, get a t70, cause that one comes with the compressor maps! cause new turbos suck! why pay all that money on a fancy engine and shit and not get an old turbo!

I love how good your memory is of dumb posts

levinboy Grand Master

levinboy

Posted
Posted

dont be a top bloke, get a t70, cause that one comes with the compressor maps! cause new turbos suck! why pay all that money on a fancy engine and shit and not get an old turbo!

Hahahaha

This thread delivers

Mick_o Grand Master

Mick_o

Posted
Posted (edited)

If that whats his name guy heard that he'd. .....He'd. ....Agree? ;)

dont be a top bloke, get a t70, cause that one comes with the compressor maps! cause new turbos suck! why pay all that money on a fancy engine and shit and not get an old turbo!

Edited by Mick_o
Nee-san Grand Master

Nee-san

Posted
Posted

I think a lot of what people are trying to communicate here is that for a large percentage of people looking at engines.

Just spending a bit of cash on building a 26 is probably more cost effective than an RB28 or 30.

Don't let anyone tell you having a properly running and installed thirty is a walk in the park or cheaper... it's simply not the case.

People also tend to harp on about a few issues in the Skyline world purely because they are the uneducated consensus.

I think a lot of people would be a lot better off if they thought of it purely in terms of the block box theory.

A black box where air and fuel goes in and work comes out.

Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

I think a lot of what people are trying to communicate here is that for a large percentage of people looking at engines.

Just spending a bit of cash on building a 26 is probably more cost effective than an RB28 or 30.

Don't let anyone tell you having a properly running and installed thirty is a walk in the park or cheaper... it's simply not the case.

People also tend to harp on about a few issues in the Skyline world purely because they are the uneducated consensus.

I think a lot of people would be a lot better off if they thought of it purely in terms of the block box theory.

A black box where air and fuel goes in and work comes out.

I don't know of I'm missing something, but I have absolutely no idea what you are getting at with the black box theory ??
NYTSKY Grand Master

NYTSKY

Posted
Posted

dont be a top bloke, get a t70, cause that one comes with the compressor maps! cause new turbos suck! why pay all that money on a fancy engine and shit and not get an old turbo!

When I take the car for a spin this week Ill let you know. Or better yet come down and drive it for yourself, afterwards you can sit down with Bob and tell him how he could improve the combo.

  • Like 1
TwinTurboCelica Enthusiast

TwinTurboCelica

Posted
Posted

Not sure if anyone has mentioned what car this is going in???

After doing a RB2630 in a R34 GTR, I would say don't do it if it is going into a 4wd, especially if you want to go dry sump in the future. Bonnet didn't fit, sway bar fouls the dry sump fittings, block adapter means bottom gearbox holes are now out by 40mm, inter cooler pipes need to lengthened, exhaust needs to be lengthened, strut brace doesn't fit, clutch master doesn't fit anymore... The list goes on and on...

If you build a 3ltr, build it as a 3.2ltr.

Also, a RB2630 does rev, mine will go to 9000... And has survived a few 10,000 over revs.

r32-25t Grand Master

r32-25t

Posted
Posted

If you want something easy build a 2.8 cause everything bolts back up, but if your willing to put in the work a 3L is a great thing

like what I said here on the first page about the 3l needing extra work to fit.

I don't know how your bell housing bolts ended up out by 40mm mine were out by 10mm (little bit of customizing and now they fit) and my sump is no where near hitting my sway bar and my standard clutch master is still in the car

TwinTurboCelica Enthusiast

TwinTurboCelica

Posted
Posted (edited)

Sorry, bolts out by 10mm... There still out and require fab work to modify. My sump doesn't foul on the sway bar, the external oil pump fittings do (dry sump). Clutch master doesn't fit due to the Greddy intake plenum that used to fit fine. Add to that the cross member needed to be notched, the firewall taken to with a hammer etc etc.

Edited by TwinTurboCelica

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...