Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You are looking at spending 10k to have it pull hard..

You will spend a lot less if you get your stock turbo highflowed to the right profile, it will definitely give you the pull hard effect and will cost you a lot less.

I reckon a Hypergear G3.5 highflow will do a good job of the desired task, the delivery will give monster pull without being a pig to drive.

Before you ask, you will need a full 3" TBE, FMIC, fuel pump, injectors and an ECU at a minimum.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/433565-gt35r-or-gt30r/#findComment-7069538
Share on other sites

It's not rocket surgery.

It's not brain science either.

GTScotT is offering some sound, experience based advice. He's also considering the driving outcome and financial aspect of things.

However if you are chasing a 500rwhp setup you won't likely get there with a GT30 setup. Go the GT35 and be mindful of people's comments to this point.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/433565-gt35r-or-gt30r/#findComment-7069729
Share on other sites

At the moment no one has given me a answer or opinion on what one would be more suitable

Yes they have...this:

I reckon a Hypergear G3.5 highflow will do a good job of the desired task, the delivery will give monster pull without being a pig to drive.

and see also:

Look at the rb25 dyno results thread. It's not rocket surgery. People don't have to tell you what to do, you can figure it out yourself sometimes!

and forget the GT35

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/433565-gt35r-or-gt30r/#findComment-7069772
Share on other sites

3076 56T with a .63 on E85 hits like a sledgehammer...

the hypergear stuff in same size are a more linear pull and deceptively quick, but probally faster no doubt

guess it depends what you after, i have no idea what a 3450 feels like on a rb25, only 25/30's and 30s's

guessing boost response would be fairly bad on a manual

cheers

darren

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/433565-gt35r-or-gt30r/#findComment-7069900
Share on other sites

Glad you put that 3 inch cooler piping, talk about overkill. You can make an easy 300kw on 2.25 inch piping.

Stop slapping parts on and read, there is so much information here you should be able to work out what you need, then see if you can go for a spin in a few members cars to get a feel for the response. I am guessing the GT35 will be a little too laggy if you plan to drive it daily.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/433565-gt35r-or-gt30r/#findComment-7070093
Share on other sites

Read this thread - ultimate RB "pull hard" setup, make numbers in the range of GT35R peak power but spooling similar to the smaller GT30 range turbos:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/426059-forced-performance-hta-turbos/

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/433565-gt35r-or-gt30r/#findComment-7073476
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • -10 is plenty for running to an oil cooler. When you look at oil feeds, like power steering feeds, they're much smaller, and then just a larger hose size to move volume in less pressure. No need for -12. Even on the race cars, like Duncans, and endurance cars, most of them are all running -10 and everything works perfectly fine, temps are under control, and there's no restrictions.
    • Update: O2 sensor in my downpipe turned out to be faulty when I plugged in to the Haltech software. Was getting a "open circuit" warning. Tons of carbon buildup on it, probably from when I was running rich for a while before getting it corrected. Replaced with new unit and test drove again. The shuffle still happens, albeit far less now. I am not able to replicate it as reliably and it no longer happens at the same RPM levels as before. The only time I was able to hear it was in 5th going uphill and another time in 5th where there was no noticeable incline but applying more throttle first sped it up and then cleared it. Then once in 4th when I slightly lifted the throttle going over a bump but cleared right after. My understanding is that with the O2 sensor out, the ECU relies entirely on the MAP tune and isn't able to make its small adjustments based on the sensors reading. All in all, a big improvement, though not the silver bullet. Will try validating the actuators are set up correctly, and potentially setting up shop time to tune the boost controller on closed loop rather than the open loop it is set to now. Think if it's set up on closed loop to take the O2 reading, that should deal with these last bits. Will try to update again as I go. 
    • More so GReddy oil relocation kits, sandwich plates, etc. all use 10AN fittings. And same, I've only used 10AN and my car sees track work (circuit, doing laps, not 10 sec squirt business).
    • street use or race track, what hose size and why? what factors change with the hose size options ?   see most comon is an10. when you see most oem external coolers are closer to an12? does high volume oil pump like nitto need an12 or 10 be just fine
×
×
  • Create New...