Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Forgive the terminology, maybe I will get it later on

Well bs is still alive in the carsales industry and why am I supprised :verymad:

The R34 I am buying that was supposed to be able to be tuned to 700HP to 800HP could not make 400HP. It could not get enough boost to kick the turbo off.I think he said it was only about 12 lb., it was about 200KW :(

Had it on the Dyno today and found out I need a turbo boost controller and new cam once the turbo controller was installed to be able to take the power it was capible of acheiving , Mmmmmmm :verymad::yucky:

Trouble is learning can be an expensive business :pirate: Grrrrrrrrrr!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/438031-honest-car-salesman/
Share on other sites

What makes you think you can achieve 700+ HP? What Turbo are you running? Is that your engine bay in your avatar? looks like you have a high mount single?

Going from 200KW to 350+ with just a change of boost controller is highly doubtful... Unless you can tell everyone what the specs are of your engine...

Thanks for your input guys, I have paid the deposit and signed the contract, I am not worried about that, the car is worth it to me, I just get sick of being crapped to.

The motor work was done by Croydon Racing Developements and from what I found out about them they know what they are doing.

The car had $42K SPENT ON THE MOTOR , too many things to write and most of it I do not understand but here are some of the mods; GikenT78 Single turbo kit, OS quad Clutch, push /pull kit, Koyorad radiator , custom made catch tank, Z32 air flow meter', ,nitto h beam connecting rods; je/nitto rb 26 forged pistons, nitto rb series high volume oil pump, 9 lt sump conversion, machine work on engine block, engine rebuild- hand file rings ect, bosch fuel pump ; and all of the other bits and peices that needed to be done.

That is not counting stuff that Advan Performance did, I think they know their stuff.

So there was alot of money spent and the work was done by people in the performance business. I feel OK about the car, well I love it :thumbsup:

I do not know very much about getting a R34 up and running and I maybe wrong, but 600HP, I will soon find out?

Some of the parts should give someone an idea of the type of work done on the engine, no thoughts on what was done to the engine can get up to 600hp ?

When the cam and boost control have been fitted and after the final tune mid next I will take a photo of the Dyno readout and post it

A bit late it seems.....

They just added the Boost controller and Dyno done, 338 AWKW ,so nowhere near the sales pitch talk.

Spoke to the bloke at CRD and he said it is a good unit and if I wanted more from it i would need to update the fuel system and a new cam and they could lift the performance, think that will be enough for me for a while and see what I want to do in the future .

So I will pick it up on Saturday and see how it goes on the 330 kls ride home , should be fun :action-smiley-069:

Normally when those figures are thrown around it means that the engine is capable of making that power given all the supporting mods are in place.

You clearly didn't do much research into what you bought, u just saw a big parts list n they told you this n that and you were none the wiser.

Without a complete fuel system including surge tank and external pumps it's never realy gona make over 400kw (540 hp).

Mine maxed out at 401kw

Also a fuel system from croydon is not cheap, I know from experience as they built mine.

So unless your going to spend cash on a fuel system and upgrade to e85 your not going to see over 550hp

Also who builds a forged motor with all that and doesn't even put in a simple boost controller?

Also a Gtr has camshafts (there is 2 of them)

If it didn't have a set of basic aftermarket cams in there all ready then I'd take it that no head work was carried out at all and now even less likely to make 7-800hp

also 800 at the wheel/ dyno hp is a f**king monster. do you want that sort of power, do you understand what that is like to drive and maintain?

if you get a solid reliable 450-500 atw then you have got to be happy.

sorry to say it again but if your not sure on whats what with the parts list then a 7-800hp car might not be the best idea to chase.

do you like driving it? is it a good car? then drive it love it and be happy with a good purchase.

i can say my rb25 is capable of 800hp.......with $200k

Edited by GH05T

also 800 at the wheel/ dyno hp is a f**king monster. do you want that sort of power, do you understand what that is like to drive and maintain?

if you get a solid reliable 450-500 atw then you have got to be happy.

sorry to say it again but if your not sure on whats what with the parts list then a 7-800hp car might not be the best idea to chase.

do you like driving it? is it a good car? then drive it love it and be happy with a good purchase.

i can say my rb25 is capable of 800hp.......with $200k

Ontop of that it would be boring as hell to drive everyday as with that power you are not seeing boost in the rpm you spend most your time in on the road, when I drove a 500kw gtr on the road it really felt boring compared to a 350kw one that is until you go past 5-6k lol.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
    • hahah when youtube subscribers are faster than my updates here. Yes some vid from the day is up, here:  Note that as with all track day videos it is boring watching after the bloopers at the start.  The off was a genuine surprise to me, I've literally done a thousand laps around the place and I've never had instability there; basically it rolled into oversteer, slipped, gripped and spat me out. On the way off I mowed down one of the instructor's cones and it sat there all day looking at me with accusing cone eyes as I drove past. 1:13:20 was my fastest lap, and it was in the second session, 3rd lap.  It (or me!) got slower throughout the day as it got hotter.      
    • It sounds like you want what the Toyota Landcruisers have for their roof racks. Wanna know what you end up with? Rust holes in the roof, and water everywhere...
    • Discovered today that if I select reverse first and take my foot off the brake, then select drive, the drive indicator light works and so does the tiptronic gear indicator. 
    • Ok so after much research and talking with knowledgeable people I've got my turbo conversion done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.  Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd. But nothing drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic.  I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Does anyone here have any ideas?   Cheers guys
×
×
  • Create New...