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Brb telling every one that big baffled sumps/dry sumps drilled oil returns and all the other secrets to making a rb26 go the distance. That all of it isnt needed. Just put forged rods in it and all the problems dissappear

That's not what i meant. I meant that you need to pull the motor out anyway it isn't that much more effort to fix the oil issues. And Dry sumps are not needed unless you are running serious power.

considering bri73y's car has done more racing laps than any other skyline on here in the last 5 years, I'd be listening to his thoughts.....

and he's hardly the only one that has demonstrated that a big power car doesn't last well, I haven't seen any of the time attack cars last more than a few days at a time. Which I guess is fine if you know what you are getting in for.

I started racing in a FWD. It was cheap, fun and close racing.

Yes the handling is different but neither better nor worse than rwd or 4wd to me, just something different to learn

....right

Well said.

considering bri73y's car has done more racing laps than any other skyline on here in the last 5 years, I'd be listening to his thoughts.....and he's hardly the only one that has demonstrated that a big power car doesn't last well, I haven't seen any of the time attack cars last more than a few days at a time. Which I guess is fine if you know what you are getting in for.

Problem being that the GTR's putting down good lap times all have a bazillion horsepowers. So your choice is to build a big hp R to compete in 4WD which will go fkn bang a lot or lose or go buy a GTST and enjoy yourself. Which is genius coming from me given the amount of coin I have pissed away on my heap of crap GTR.

If you want an Emo there are plenty road rally built cars about.

I started racing in a FWD. It was cheap, fun and close racing.

Yes the handling is different but neither better nor worse than rwd or 4wd to me, just something different to learn

if you can't power oversteer, it's worse. The end.

Porsche and BMW know the deal. FWD is for grocery getters. :P

my 2c..

I own a no expense spared R32 GTR that has never delivered on it's promise, always one thing after the other.

Last year I undertook building a cheap R33 GTST because I was getting shitty about never finishing, never starting or never being happy with my GTR.

I've got to say, I've done more laps in my GTST in the last 6months than I have in my GTR over the last 6 years.

Over the weekend my R33 competed in the Wakefield 300, qualified 12th in the wet and finished the race near last, but finished.

My GTR wouldn't have made it to half way. We split a power steering hose so lost probably 10laps trying to locate and replace the hose before rejoining the race.

Had to do an extra fuel stop also as only a standard tank, so there's another 5laps down.

The car is fairly basic, we ran on 14psi 98ron with about 330hp, and would've run perfect all day except the split hose. Tyres were shagged from mid way but no complaints here.

I've got to say it's far more rewarding/enjoyable finishing a race near last than not finishing at all. I towed her home last night and have practically nothing to do to her before taking her out again.

I've never done that in my GTR, it goes from the track to the mechanics, back to the track again. Massive pain in the ass!

My tip, buy/build a car that will finish the day. It's far more enjoyable than having a fast car that breaks.

I'm with you, build something that will race all day, drive home and then back again for more. Working on breakages (plus their associated costs) sucks hard. My GTR is now getting to the point where it is fairly reliable *touches wood* and I've done 4 track days in a row without anything done apart from regular maintenance.

Don't build a "time attack" car and get upset when it breakes. Comes with the territory. Same with people that throw -5's on a standard motor, squeeze 400kw out of it and then cry when the motor gives out? Logic makes no sense.

All the so called "Oil issues" Cost fk all considering if you are tracking a car i would expect the motor to come out first for a forged bottom end anyway. The people that have these issues are the ones that skimp out and want to build one on the cheap. Pull the motor out, forged bottom end, new oil pump, etc.. You shouldn't have any major issues ever again. With a good safe tune it should be able to be driven to and from the track.

"Never half ass two things, whole ass one thing"

-Ron Swanson

/endrant

I believe it's more sensible to run the engine within it's limits rather than saying I need a forged bottom end. My motor with a stock bottom end has been running 450rwkw at the track for around 18 months now and I track it around once a month. Put on a good balancer, billet gears, sump extension and a good catch can with breathers/drains to the sump and you're laughing. Stock bottom end is strong enough for more power than you're ever going to need at the track.

Keep the RPM below 7500 (I try and change at 7000 but sometimes get up to 7500) and don't smash limiter or punch gears and you should have a fairly reliable car.

Edited by SimonR32
  • 3 weeks later...

Yep, it was me. Thanks, she's definately a piece of work!

True to form though, another day another early retirement. Car on trailer mid-way through 3rd session.

First time driven since WTAC and clearly we still haven't found the cause of the car's electrical issues.

Wasn't even pushing hard yesterday, just doing low boost runs to gather more data.

Oh well, back to the R33 GTST!! :yes:

Dont know if i'm ready though.

Having recently done wakefield in my gtst the gtr made it seem like a totally different track.

It's been years since I've had the gtr at wakefield.

The r50 is hands down the best tow car i've ever had. Set cruise on 120 and it just goes.

I've still yet to meet a hill I can't accelerate up if I wanted to, trailer and all.

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