Transfer Case Fluid Change W Attessa

[GH05T]

hi all,

doing some of the fluids on my stagea with a service

SII C34 RS4S manual AWD

engine oil and diff fluids done.

the transfer case uses the Atessa system and i have been told its not just drop fluids and refill but rather its a specific bleeding system?

it has the line which runs up into the wagon back into a seperate reseviour for the atessa.

one, how do i properly change the fluid and

two, what fluid is recomended? should iu just use genuine nissan powersteering fluid?

[MrStabby]

Re: fluid

The letters in brackets are the Nissan certifications. I use the Valvoline as its well priced and synthetic.

Nulon Synth ATF (C D J K) 66.50/4L = $16.60perL
Valvo Synth ATF (D J K) 49.95/5L = $10.00perL
Transmax Z ATF (D only) 76.50/4L = $19.10perL

On the GTR theres a bleeder on top of the rear of the gearbox, and IIRC another near the diff somewhere. Workshop manual bleed method is you disconnect a wire in the drivers side footwell then reconnect over and over again. I've been told (by Duncan?) that you can just put the car up on stands with the motor running and crack the bleeders. Sounds like a much better option to me. Not sure if your attessa is the same.

[GH05T]

as far as i know its the same as the R33 gtr system, but who knows they may have decided to throw some random eccentricitiesin there.

[Duncan]

...On the GTR theres a bleeder on top of the rear of the gearbox, and IIRC another near the diff somewhere. Workshop manual bleed method is you disconnect a wire in the drivers side footwell then reconnect over and over again. I've been told (by Duncan?) that you can just put the car up on stands with the motor running and crack the bleeders. Sounds like a much better option to me. Not sure if your attessa is the same.

yes, yes and yes

if you really want to change it, just undo the line at the rear of the gearbox, let it drain out. replace that line (tight but not overtight, maybe clean up the thread and flare fitting because they are prone to leak if not perfect). Fill up reservoir. Start car (out of gear of course) and open bleeder at the rear of the box. If that doesn't bleed through properly you may need to open the second bleed which is above the driver's side rear axle, and hard to get to.

[KiwiRS4T]

Any quality synthetic atf will do - the Nissan stuff is an arm and a leg.

[scotty nm35]

What part are you trying to change fluids in though, the attessa or the transfer case?

[GH05T]

well both, i have a habbit of replacing as many fluids as i can when i dont know whats in there.

[scotty nm35]

There should be a few guides on Attessa bleeding on here from a few years ago. As has been mentioned there s a plug under the dash that needs to be pulled to put the attessa in constant pressure mode. Then I just crack the front bleeder on the transfer and get someone else to fill the reservoir in the back.

I use my brake bleeding bottle and hose so as not to make a mess.

[fmlycar]

What would cause nothing to come out my rear bleed nipple. I gave up. Attessa pump works, dribbles out front bleeder

[zoomzoom]

I tried to bleed the rear one. The tiniest amount of fluid came out and it looked like the new fluid was right there. If you bleed new fluid out the front one, Id say your job is done.

[scotty nm35]

probably full of rust in the nipple, it should come out after a second or two if you have emptied the reservoir.

[fmlycar]

So maybe unscrew it completely to see if it runs out that way?

From how I read the bleed procedure, the bleeder on the diff is gravity fed, so just crack it and wait until the bubble subside, top up reservoir and pull blled plug for attessa pump and switch ign on and crack front bleeder for a second and then turn ign off and repeat until no more air is present. Then plug in and prime system? does that sound about right?