Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

lolz.....funny topic.

I have only had one issue with a Precision Turbo's from John. I actually charge more to install a Hypergear turbo's due to poor clocking, Banjo fittings being different and the thing being supplied like it was just found in a junk yard.....I also offer NO reduction in costs if the turbo is stuffed within bugger all KM's due to poor oil flow on idle. It's funny how I have no issues with John discussing and getting the right setup. I too have had issues with Hypergear in the past supplying the wrong banjo's (would have been OK for a local job but this job was 300km's away), clocking, resend back to them at my cost due to wastegate problems, long turn arounds and communication.

Precision do 3 types of turbo's:

  • SS1 - $1,250
  • SS2 - $1,250
  • GT30/71r BB internals(the same Turbo Fishing Freak ran 12.2's with in RWD only) - $1,650

IMO the best setup for everyday use was the one I recently put in for Alex(Scott's old one) but that is pricey. If I was to do it all again I would still got with the GT30/71r BB even though the pricing is a little high.....imo its the best of all worlds.

anyway....thats my 2c's worth.

Edited by Jetwreck

Does the 3071 bb go in the oem housings or native with an adaptor?

Goes in the original housings. You do need to modify the outlet to the intercooler though as it will need to be 18-20mm longer. If you are doing a custom intake you will need to take the movement into account as well. It's all pretty easy work.

PS. Motorsport connections has the oil feed lines in stock for either a bush or BB setup. Under the name GARDEED....there about $200. They have an inline filter as well.

actually....if you go BB let me know....I have 2 brand new lines...I'll give you a discount....you will just need to order an inline filter.

Edited by Jetwreck

I'm not overly keen on going with the OEM housings again. I'm am positive the BB 3071 would be much better but still a compromise to a degree.

My boost response with the SS2 Hypergear rev4 is as follows:

1st 2nd 3rd

2000 -.2

3000 1.6 3.7 5.4

4000 5.3 6.8 11

4700 9.7 10.3 19.5

5000 10.3 13.8 19.8

6000 13.7 14.2 19.8

As you can see to get any decent power you have to be travelling at impractible speeds. The stock turbo would be faster in 1st and probably 2nd as well. Average power(low down torque) and transient response are incredibly important to our heavy auto's.

The only turbo that I know will retain these characteristics is the titanium turbined Borg Warner EFR. Either 6258 or 6578 would be my pick.

I'm using one of Johns Precision Turbochargers SS2 profile; recommended by Craig over 3 years ago.

I cannot speak highly enough of John, and the quality of his workmanship. He invited me to his workshop, and was more than happy to explain the theory behind what he builds, and it performed exactly as he said it would.

The guy does excellent work, and shared my excitement when the car pulled a good time at the drags.

This was in stark contrast to the other turbo builders who just wanted me to stop asking questions and start throwing money at them.

Supercharger would fix these low down boost issues :P

It's all about matching the stall converter and turbo, I have no idea where Tao got the idea we all want 300kw on petrol. 250 would be a more realistic figure without going to a 3k stally.

We want a turbo that produces the most amount of average torque between 2500-6500rpm. I'm thinking small turbo high boost or less rotational mass ie: ceramic turbine, Gamma Ti Turbine, Ti alloy.

EVO 9 RS turbocharger CHRA into OEM housings ?

TDO5HRA-16G6C-10.5T (ti alloy turbine, magnesium alloy compressor) Possibly replace the comp wheel for high boost.

I made 272awkw on E85 on my Tommei Mak EVO, response was silly

Pitty these turbo's spin the opposite way....

maybe a titanium compressor wheel that enables 50 plus degree backswept angles. This gives bigger flow for less rotational mass.

www.google.com/patents/US20060067829

Matt

Edited by BoostdR

Scottys old setup with the garret and external gate and 3k stally is the perfect setup

But cost wise is up there cause all custom made

I've been through 4 setups so far

Ss1

Ss2

Gt3071 standard housing

Gtx3071r garret

The torque and response this thing has is bloody awesome sitting at about 330kw with more to improve in the future

  • Like 1

30kw gain with a lag penalty. The torque was through the roof though.

I have since realised the torque gains with the external gate and larger housings is worth more than any dyno can show. At least my gearbox is happy now.

(Edit, remember the GT3071 is a cropped rear wheel compared to the 60mm GTX turbine.)

Once these wagons are on boost the torque curve is incredibly flat, much better than the RB25. Makes for an enjoyable wave of acceleration. I found -4 degrees timing at 6500 rpm helps my trans shift. All other high load cells have +5 degrees on E85, light load/cruise has +8.5

I've also had great success with the EMU auto tune and my innovate LC-2 wideband. Tune is within .2 AFR with no input from me apart from a drive through the hills.

Once I work out how to get a speed input from somewhere I'll also setup launch control..

Do you have a boost curve available scotty? would be good to see. I agree, dyno doesn't show the big picture at all. A boost curve at part throttle would highlight transient response and separate the boys from the men.

[quote name="Boostdr

Once I work out how to get a speed input from somewhere I'll also setup launch control..

There is a speed sensor in the back of yhe dvd rom

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...