Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

They took our jerb...

Don't you need a working visa or sponsor or some crap?

you usually need a business to sign-off or sponsor the visa application.

...see where this is going?

australia is massive.

there is no best tuner, and often the tuners with the best rep, usually have that cos the guys they are tuning have only used one tuner.

no that's not a riddle.

get a working holiday visa champ just like the other 50000 irish fellas then just dont go home. easy.

also how old are you?

but id be contacting rajab. god of tuning.

or look for someone in cairns. earn more money and its all backpackers up there.

Well lads, thanks for the info, I am 28 and I am thinking of permanently moving over with my wife and child so back packer working holiday is out of question!

Done a little research into it over last wnkd and I qualify for permanent visa, however I need to get my skill assessment done, English test etc, plus I am not Irish but Polish residing in Ireland for last 15 years!

I am excellent in what I do and I take a massive pride in my work and I want to continue doing it for as long as I can so no change in career!

Wife is sort of pushing for Adelaide... Any info on thou thing are there?

Ill be taking my 2 skylines, 180 and my rolling road over with me as well

The visa process takes around 9-10 months and ill have to finalise all my business affairs here as well so it might not happen for next 24months!

But it would be nice to arrive and have job organised to land into or at least some prospect of one!

Edited by bart@jdm

I'm sure if you ask around long enough you will find somewhere but keep in mind that most places are 1 tuner shops. So to go to 2 tuners would be quite a jump for them. Of course most shops have other guys as helping hands who like to try their hands at tuning so they'll also be waiting for a spot to open up - you might have to join these guys and let your skills push you to the front of the line.

Then again, If you're any good I'd suggest you open your own business. Just remember that not very many are making much money at the end of the day (unless you want to do some chop-shop work on the side).

Considering you are moving to Australia with a wife and child you best make sure you know what a liveable wage is over here. ie. rent, food prices, insurance, etc. You wouldn't want to be working for long earning less than $60k in Melbourne or Sydney. I mean there is something to be said for doing what you love but a half-decent wage is considered $80k+. Median wage in Melbourne/Sydney is around $75k.

If there is a growing business over here it's in Euro cars mods, reflashes, diesels, DPF filter removal, etc. This is where being from Ireland might help. Modding Jap cars has become more about catering to the hard-core (ie. no money) crowd.

FWIW: Yavuz at Unigroup Engineering is also considered a top-notch tuner. You got nothing to lose emailing him but I'm not saying he's taking anyone on. In saying that you probably won't get a reply. I didn't get a reply when I was looking for someone to tune my car after 2 emails and 2 phone calls.

Edited by simpletool
  • Like 1

right been realy bussy last few weeks with Irsh drift championship and some fighting rotarys, so didi't have time to be online at all, thanks for the comments, as i said i want to settle in first before opening a shop over and as i said ill be bringing my rolling road over with me so might be working on it in the eves as "foxers" , ill have to get cracking with visasas and all paper work so, ill keep ye posted how that works out!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...