Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

-5 (for now)

E85

Built engine

Street use only

I have tomei type b's ATM, and yes they will suit better for that setup, bit they idle a limitless mellow for my liking

If I pull fuel/timing at idle, this will give the idle I'm after?

Again, will 272/264 idle different to 272/272?

Ive been trying to know if my hks 272 cams will work for my drag setup. Im running a built motor and its for only drag racing but it seems like people are using the title "DRAG" as an excuse to answer if it will work or not. Im planning on running 10000rpms off the line. Will this be enough??? No one ever answered me in detail.

I wouldnt do this build for just the sound but I would choose to do it for that gain I would have according to the propose of the car. Which is only for drag racing max hp at WOT, and not for how it sounds at idle. Here is some photos of my setup. Oh the damper will be changed out thats just a mock up one. Details please guys

post-37293-1402286323151_thumb.jpg

post-37293-14022863386231_thumb.jpg

post-37293-14022863559864_thumb.jpg

post-37293-14022863792197_thumb.jpg

Edited by MJTru

Well I didnt really port it out. I just cleaned up the factory matching marks. I also took the hunp out tge exhaust ports. I have spring and retainers and valve to work with the cams. But ive always been asking for help with the cams. But obe one seems to want to help in deatail. Guess in the future ill just have to pay for the help. But I have already plan on swapping them out for oem one. I have lots of experience with those. Ill post photos of the ports

Marcus, you are in the wrong thread.

And, yes, if you are planning 10k rpm and drag racing then yes you DO HAVE THE RIGHT CAMS (although as zebra points out you might even need more). We've already covered that.

OP, you have problems. If you want that idle, the cut one of your coil wires.

Edited by GTSBoy
  • Like 1

well...you have given us nothing to go on

272 is the advertised duration

what is the duration at 0.050"?

what lift?

The motor has the factory intake...so not exactly designed around 10,000rpm

are the springs good enough for 10,000rpm?

are the springs good enough for 10,000rpm with a bucket load of boost being shoved down its throat?

Damn I deleted the photos out my phone. But im after velocity thats why I never ooened up the ports. But choosed to just clean it up. What im doing is not a 100% drag as you woukd see the top end guys do it. I just street drag race. And as for the lift is close to stock lift. But I do know its 272 duration. Whicj is weird. I got these cams with the motor and couldn't finf the lift so I mesured them and its about 8.8 mm lift.

Sorry if im in posting in the wrong place. GTSBoy. But it seems like when I was trying to find out everyone was away on vacation. I realy dont care to brake things learning. But by no means enjoy it this is why I try to learn by asking. I have never really build a full out race car in my class. As I do agree just doing it for the sound is insane. As for the intake not designed for 10k I can swallow that and im willing to change that. But isnt this forced induction and what and how much woukd the intake really matter. Please explain in detail and help not just me ecmveryone for that matter out. Our intuition will lead the way after that. As for the valve train I have listed part numbers of the springs and retainers as welm as asking if they will be adequate for my set up. Everyone was on vacation. What do you mean when you say. "Whats the duration at 0.050" im lost. How do I measure this. Cause I hate not know and understanding the setup. I shoukd just burn this car down before I even flipping try 10k.

Shit I was saying the same thing long time ago. But I kept getting "its drag racing of course it will work." I build around and knowing its not a real all out drag car. Its just what I intend to do with the car. Thats all. I dont even race the car on a real drag strip with track bite, all I do is illegal street drag racing to me its more fun. Kml. I will take those cams and put them up on display as for sticking them up my ass. Lol. Hell no. Lol. Do anyone want to buy hks 272 at 8.8mm lift. Lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...